can't get copper out of new remington

Status
Not open for further replies.

sansone

Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2007
Messages
2,173
Location
north florida USA
I know this is basic but the Birchwood Casey Bore Scrubber is not removing all the copper from a new rem brrl. I am using B/C soaked patches, followed 10 minutes later by bronze brushing. rifling shows copper streaks and I'm thinking of leaving the copper in there because the rifle shoots great. Do we need to get ALL the copper out? I know we can do more harm than good by over-cleaning
 
Maybe the copper streaks are being left by the bronze bore brush??

But seriously, according the the manufactures MSDS, B/C Bore Scrubber contains nothing in it's ingredients that will dissolve or remove copper.

If you want it out, buy some real Copper Solvent and get it out.

As long as it is stuck to the rifling, it can only get worse with more shooting eventually.

rc
 
eh. its probably from the bore brush. I use one and the copper is never there after I shoot it, but once I clean it again it is. I also rubbed the brush on the barrel and it did the same thing only to be easily wiped off.
 
the label says: removes copper
I know what it says.
But I looked at the manufactures MSDS, and there is nothing in it that is a copper solvent.

It is made up mostly of aromatic solvents & kerosene.

rc
 
You need a cleaner with some Ammonia in it to get the copper out. I have been using Sweets 7.62 solvent for years, just clean it all out good and don't leave any ammonia in there over time.

I'll probably get flamed, but a breakin process will help smooth out whatever is picking up the copper whether it does anything for accuracy or not.
 
I use J&B Bore cleaner (non-embedding paste) and/or Browning's 4 Step solution. Both work well.

Geno
 
If one uses a bronze brush after using a copper solvent, won't the solvent remove copper from the brush (and possibly deposit it in the barrel)?

Should one not use a nylon brush when using copper solvent?

gd
 
I fired a single shot, copper streaks remain. I'm going to buy a better copper remover and try nylon brush. I tried a nylon brush with this Birch/Casey to no avail. I'm thinking the bore may need mild polishing. This rifle can only be cleaned from the muzzle so I am very careful
 
For years I used abrasive JB bore scrubber probably taking years off the life of the barrel. If you want the copper out get some Sweets and use a patch. This stuff will remove the copper and is not abrasive. I run patches in till they no longer come out green, then I finish with any normal bore cleaner.
 
Another thought. Ruger revolvers seem to have copper-coloured streaks on the inside of the barrel. These have been new revolvers. I have tried to ascertain what the streaks are but have had no luck. Maybe this is a similar issue.

gd
 
I like Butches Bore Shine...(Like said above...Do not get the stuff on anything with a finish (Wood Stock))..It has a strong ammonia smell but works wonders.. Remember to change out brass brushes regularly, they are not meant to last a lifetime...
 
sansone said:
I'm thinking of leaving the copper in there because the rifle shoots great. Do we need to get ALL the copper out? I know we can do more harm than good by over-cleaning.

Barrels are all diifferent, some shoot better from a squeaky clean bore, some in a lightly fouled, some with a fair amount of copper buildup and anywhere in between. Let the individual rifle barrel dictate the cleaning routine. In your case you stated that it's shooting well so why are you cleaning it. If you are planning on any long terms storage or a rifle I would clean and put up with a lightly oiled bore and not leave it sit there with copper fouling.

When copper fouling does need to be dealt with,wipe out, amonia based cleaners by barnes, shooters choice, butch's, sweet's and the like will work using tight fitting patches. While JB's bore paste works, I would use it very sparingly, it's a pretty harsh asbrasive when compared with the preivious stuff.
 
I will do two things: buy a stronger copper remover, AND wait for my groups to open-up before any further scrubbing. My boresnake will not clean very well but at least there is no fear of crown damage
 
dubbleA:

When a barrel's groups tighten-up over the course of a few fouling shots, it indicates that the barrel (especially the about first 8 to 10 inches), has not been properly broken-in. See Kreiger's website. It's a fantastic read regarding break-in. My own rifles consistently impact dead-on the zero from a cold, clean and dry barrel. Every time I clean, my zero remains dead-on. But, I took great pains in breaking them in.

Geno
 
Sorry Geno, I dont subsrcibe to the "break in" theory. On a factory barrel, I give the bore a few strokes of JB's and shoot it and shoot until accuracy falls off, it might be 63 rounds or it might be 480. On a good after market, I'll just run a patch or two to get out any gremlins that might be in the bore from the smith and shoot it as is. Of course your milage will vary.
 
+1 for both Sweets 7.62 and Butchs Bore Shine. Both are good products and remove copper a plenty from my rifles bores.

I know this is basic but the Birchwood Casey Bore Scrubber is not removing all the copper from a new rem brrl. I am using B/C soaked patches, followed 10 minutes later by bronze brushing. rifling shows copper streaks and I'm thinking of leaving the copper in there because the rifle shoots great. Do we need to get ALL the copper out? I know we can do more harm than good by over-cleaning

Using a bronze brush with a real copper remover would dissolve the brush.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top