case annealing

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MikieG

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So after reading thru the case life thread, i was wondering what annealing techniques you folks are using?
 
I didn't do it until I had a machine. More brass has been ruined than made better by other methods.
 
This is my annealer - designed and built in my home workshop.

It's a small table top model, the front panel is exactly A4 paper size (11"x9")
Self contained with internal (or external) gas cylinder and internal rechargeable battery.
Takes anything from 6ppc/br to 284Win.

Seen here standing on a 12"x12" floor tile.

th_3a52d45c-df11-4aa6-9923-9ffb4363f185_zps46a46eaf.jpg

And here it is in action:

http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v639/allan1066/anmk3_zps97c3f5b0.mp4
 
I applaud those who have gone the mechanical route. I (however) tend to anneal in moderate amounts that require a more (dare I say it) moderate approach.

This technique using white 475° Tempilaq http://thefiringline.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4147934&postcount=8 is good for bottleneck cases. For straightwall BPCR cases I use green (750°) Tempilaq inside the neck.

My goals area (1) ease of setup/use/teardown in the kitchen; (2) speed of same; and (3) predictable repeatability
 
I basically just use a propane blowtorch and an electric drill with a spark plug adapter. Drop a case into the adaptor which exposes the neck then place perpendicular to the flame. Allow the case to rotate, then when you see the brass turn grey/blue drop it into a cold water bucket. I've done this with my sellior and bellot brass for 303 British and have got 5 reloads out of them. I also do it before full length sizing to ensure the brass is not work hardened.
 
I basically just use a propane blowtorch and an electric drill with a spark plug adapter. Drop a case into the adaptor which exposes the neck then place perpendicular to the flame. Allow the case to rotate, then when you see the brass turn grey/blue drop it into a cold water bucket. I've done this with my sellior and bellot brass for 303 British and have got 5 reloads out of them. I also do it before full length sizing to ensure the brass is not work hardened.
Interesting.
So the spark plug adaptor holds the casing in place and the drill allows it to spin above the blowtorch?
 
Interesting.
So the spark plug adaptor holds the casing in place and the drill allows it to spin above the blowtorch?
Correct. My blowtorch flame is parallel with the bench surface so technically it's to the side. But yes, the case rotates within the flame to ensure a uniform anneal. Also the bottom two thirds are shielded by the adaptor, so although it gets warm you can be sure your primer pockets won't get nearly hot enough to deform.

I picked up a three size set of spark plug adaptors online for less than $15, so I can anneal anything from 223 up to 8mm Mauser.
 
I've done a lot less of it since using the undersized neck, but my method is generally to wait until my case necks start to turn a cold, slate color and then brighten them up to their original golden glow with a few seconds of the torch. They end up rather under-annealed but quite consistent, and therefore quite useable. I only anneal to preserve the integrity of the case and not for the purpose softening the neck in order to grip a projectile. This for small quantities of ammo for a bolt action rifle, I can't speak for the voluminous annealers.
 
I use a blow torch and the lee drill/case adapter in my drill to spin them. I typically spin my 308 cases about 6 seconds... thats usually when i see the case neck turn grey/blue...
 
I seldom have to anneal more than a packet or two of brass at a time & prefer a low key approach. Propane torch on the work bench, 2 litre icecream container half full of water beside it, hold brass by base in fingers vertically with neck up & twirl in blow torch flame till its too hot to hold then drop it into the water. I've done this in low light & been able to see the neck is just beginning to glow red. The annealed cases look just like annealed factory brass & resize beautifully. I've not manged to ruin a case I've annealed yet. I'm talking 303 Bitish, 257 roberts & 7x64 cases here. I've done 223 Rem cases too but they do get hot a bit quicker though still seem OK. Anything shorter than that would be a no no this way I reckon.
Steve.
 
I've never annealed any case mouth.

Never had any problems over a few dozen full length sizing times with 308 Win cases nor 1 or 2 dozen with belted 30 caliber magnum cases.

My full length sizing dies' necks are opened up to 1 or 2 thousandths smaller than loaded case neck diameters.
 
I don't do a large amount of reloading so my annealing setup is very simple. It's a small burnz-a-matic propane torch setting on my worktable, a folded bathtowel, and a small variable speed drill with a regular socket that is a close fit for the case I'm annealing. I slowly rotate the case in the flame until I see the color change just below the neck and drop the case on the towel. Quick and simple and works. I used to do this just wearing a glove and rotating the case with my fingers. Arthritis prompted me to use the drill.
 
I anneal my match grade brass pretty frequently using a Ken Light BC1000 that I've had for over 10 years now:
DSC00914_zpsd2c0044b.jpg

DSC00915_zps5d76f410.jpg

I believe the BC1000 was the original commercial machine available for a while. The only draw-back, if there is one, is the requirement to use the caliber wheels, which can get expensive (I now have 4). In theory the wheels with water bath act as a heat sink to control the surface area that's annealed.

Chuck
 
annealeez is the most affordable machine right now, do a search for a torch holder mod.
 
So after reading thru the case life thread, i was wondering what annealing techniques you folks are using?

None.

I only recover about 60% of my fired bottleneck brass, so by the time any of my brass would need annealing, it has (statistically speaking) already been lost.
 
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