Case lube

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RonnieT

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Best case lube for cleaned cases?
Spray, roll on?
What do you think is best?
Ron
 
Imperial Sizing Wax.

If you would like experience in getting stuck cases out of a die, then try Hornady One Shot.

If having a gooey mess is attractive to you, then go for "roll on."
 
I don't know what is best but, a little Mink Oil on my fingers and I had 250 pieces of 30-30 brass decapped and full-length resized in a jiffy last night. I have to pick them up with my fingers anyway; might as well lube them at the same time.

Also, Mink Oil is cheap, a tin should last a loooong time and it's available just about anywhere. I got my tin at Piggly Wiggly.
 
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I don't know whats "best", but I use Imperial for neck sizing and Dillon spray for full length sizing. I have used about everything from the various roll on's to Hornady One Shot, and they all work. So do the many other things, not meant for reloading! Just try a few, follow the directions, and decide for yourself. Theres really not a wrong answer. Lightman
 
Best case lube for cleaned cases?
Spray, roll on?
What do you think is best?

I think it hardly matters; they all work well if used correctly. What makes a difference is your own prefered method of application.

Imperial, Unique, Lee and shoe waxes work best with finger application but are lousy on pads. Thick oils work on pads but are a gooey mess on the fingers. Sprays are quick and do well when applied/used correctly (they often aren't) but are costly and wasteful.
 
I don't load thousands of cases at a time, typically 100. I prefer the Lee lube and apply it individually. I use it as just another step to examine the case for defects before being primed.
 
I have used a number of different lubes, and all have performed just fine, never stuck a case in all my years of reloading. However, a number of years ago I tried some Dillon (DCL) and have been hooked since. It isn't greasy or sticky, no lube dents, and it's super easy to work with.

There are some concerns about how to use it properly, and one of the most common issues is folks not allowing it to dry completely after applying it. If it isn't completely dry, which I waited at least 10 minutes, you will stick cases, as I had a close call the first time I used it. This is pretty much true with any of the spray on lubes, they must be allowed to completely dry, or else.

GS
 
Never tried the mink oil...but may well give it a shot if my tin of Imperial Sizing Die wax ever runs out. It may well outlast me though:) Good stuff!
 
Depends on how intense you resize. I size each caliber for a specific firearm, not to SAMMI(?) specs. I use Dillon spray lube with great results. If I was loading to specs and working the brass more i would use a lube pad. Last if I was sizing magnums back to specs, forming brass, or sizing semi auto brass where you are putting the pressure to it, I use Imperial wax.
As mentioned, you don't need to lube straight wall pistol brass, but a little spray lube sure makes my press run smoother!
 
Since you did not state what type of brass you are going to lube:

My choice for straight wall handgun brass is Hornady one shot. Works great in a Dillon SDB. .45LC and if needed 9mm, .40,.45acp.
 
for .223 , I tend to do about 300-400 in a sitting.... for that I have been VERY Happy with One Shot... aerosol has been good, the Pump bottles even better....
that said... i cant find the pump Bottles and I have had some older aerosol not meet my expectations

I haave tried in the Past cabela's and wasnt happy, some say it is the same as RCBS... well I am going to try Cabela's again... heck its $6 and they are 1 mile from my house:p

i spray in a cardboard Box... Shake... light spray again and shake... let sit for 5min ta dry..... then Hit 1st case of 60 with Synthetic Motor oil... and Go ta Town on my Lee Pro 1000.... works Great

Do the same for 9mm since i do 120 at a time in the Lee progressive...

For .357 Sizing Wax is Da BOMB.... works great and a tin will last years
 
Imperial Sizing Wax is my personal favorite, the Kiwi mink oil works pretty good as well, but you have to use more of it and it'll load up/wear out your tumbling media faster.
 
I have used "pam" cooking spray the last few days on 300WM, 22-250,6MM remington, forming 5.7 johnson out of 30 carbine, 270, 30-06,243, 223 and forming 17/223 ackley out of 223 cases,
it worked well for all.
I did have a few lube dents when I got too much on them, but after blowing out die and not getting it loaded up again I started wiping just before I resized and they all worked good.
Ron
 
I have used Frankford Arsenal non-aerosol for 32-20 with good results. Tonight I tried using it for 223 Win., and couldn't get enough lube on the lower 1/3 of the case. After reading several posts here, I experimented. 3 in 1 oil worked on the shoulder, but ran off the lower part of the case. Next I had an old bottle of Quaker State 2 Cycle Engine Oil. With a swab down the inside of the neck, a light coating on the bottleneck and a smear around the lower 1/2 of the case, I had success. This leads me to believe that any lube that will adhere to the case side can be used, if applied properly.
 
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