Case Trim with no Hand/wrist Pain?

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I like my motorized Forster.....my hands only touch the brass long enough to place it in the collet....trims, chamfers, deburrs, then self ejects.

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What I have found to work pretty good is the Forester trimmer, but what might work the best for the person with bum wrists and fingers would be the Lee zip trimmer with the three jaw chuck. I use it when I form 7.62x25 brass out of .223 and that thing really does work pretty good. The 3 jaw chuck fits any cartridge and you can trim, champfer, and polish the brass in just a few seconds. This was one pretty well thought out product.
Took a reloading class recently and the veteran instructor really liked the Lee Zip Trimmer. We used it in the class and it's what I plan to buy.
 
The zip trim is also nice because it works with the Lee trimmers and cutter. Makes for kind of a no brainer.

I put mine on a board that screws into my bench to allow me to move it out of the way when not needed.
 
I have used my Forester to turn thousands of 44 Mags to 44 Specials, .357 Mags to .38special or .38 S&Wand .38 Special to .38 S&W, Make 44 auto mag cases, make 32-20 brass to custom Nagant revolver lengths, 10mm to .40 cal......oh yes and just to trim a bunch of cases to factory length too.
 
Have a look at the case locking method for both and make your choice. IMO the RCBS system (old collet system and new system) are both way easier and take less time per case.

Here's my setup. Thanks to THR member Exibar for the drill adapter. (linked in video info and mentioned in the video).

Thanks a lot. That video really helps. I'm not sure if the Lyman deburs and chamfers at the same time. I think the newer RCBS has a power adapter now.
 
I've got 2 world's finest trimmers, for .308 and 5.56. Use a rubber glove and you don't have to grip the cases so tightly. Will make your hand sweat some though...
 
I prefer not to have to grip the cases at all.....after a hundred or so, for me it's not even remotely fun.....but then I'm not as young as most Giraud lovers. That's why I built mine (post 27) arthritis & carpel tunnel friendly. Swinging a hammer for 45 years takes a toll. Designing projects on a cad computer for the last 30 as well, didn't help.:rolleyes:
 
I use the Lee 3 jaw chucked into a power drill clamped in my vise. Quick in. Lee trimmer held in the right hand inserted, left hand gives a quick trigger pull on the drill and done. A little steel wool and another quick spin and shiny cases too. If I feel the case is dirty inside I insert a bore brush and spin again, usually only cleaning the neck. While still chucked a quick MANUAL twist with chamfer tool if necessary and on to the next case.
 
GW Staar, your case trimmer is great and it got me thinking.

For an easy adaptation of your idea, one could use the Forster case holder for the motorized trimmer (aka drill press)
and then use a WFT for the cutter part.

The trimming indexes off the shoulder so no adjustment of the drill press needed.

Just a thought.
 
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Yeah! That might just work.......even better when they make a version that deburrs and chamfers while they trim like my Forster does. :)
 
I'm reading all these posts and seeing all the different equipment, which of these systems is most easily going to give me an accurate case length trim without mistakes?

I can see myself holding a cutter in one hand and not being square with the case or cutting too far with the Lee system/ or any hand held system. It seems the lathe type setup would cause fewer user errors (I am error prone). Which of the lathe systems prevents over-trimming / or aids in stopping trimming at the correct length? I think I am saying idiot proof for me.
 
I have used a number of trimmers, including the Lyman, the Lyman Bench Press, and the RCBS. All incorporate stops which, when set correctly, prevent overtrimming. I can only imagine that all other trimmers mentioned in this thread must surely (in one way or another) also incorporate a stop.
 
How about just sending 1200 cases out to be processed once a year? Zero wrist pain and not only will it be sized and trimmed but swaged as well.
 
Yeah! That might just work.......even better when they make a version that deburrs and chamfers while they trim like my Forster does. :)

Your right.

With the WFT, if the case is rotated while trimming, the need to chamfer/deburr is minimized or eliminated. But, this makes the case holder mount more complicated
 
Great idea JMORRIS except then I would have to have 1200 cases LOL.

Thanks Rico. I am totally new to rifle case trimming. Can anyone tell me what other parts I would need to buy for the Lyman Trim Pro to trim 270 cases? It's hard to tell on-line.

Thanks y'all fro walking me through this process here. I love the idea of the lathe type trimmer just not the price, but will spend it because I know I would always think "should have spent the few extra $ on the lathe".
 
I got this:

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Lyman Universal® Trimmer Power Pack Combo

and this:

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BLACK & DECKER 3.6-Volt 3/8-in Cordless Drill

for less than $150 and it meets all my trimming needs.
 
Great idea JMORRIS except then I would have to have 1200 cases LOL.

Ahh, if you are reusing the same cases over and over you might try switching to something like the RCBS X die. Reports are than you only have to trim them once.
 
I like my motorized Forster.....my hands only touch the brass long enough to place it in the collet....trims, chamfers, deburrs, then self ejects.

I like it too.
 
Hi,

New to rifle reloading and will only do 100 rounds a month max, probably less over the course of a year and do not want to spend the $300+ for the cadillac trimmers.

How about a $100-150 range option that's not rough on your fingers and wrist?

Thanks
Wouldn't the Lee Deluxe Quick Trim Case Trimmer and quick trim die for the caliber you working on be the cheapest way to go? Not sure how hard it is on the wrist but from the looks of it it can't be too hard.
 
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