CD 2.75: First Look

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JShirley

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Sam Owens and I have been working together for years now. The Camp Defender was a design that we finalized together in 2011, with me sending pictures of blades to Sam, and describing how our camp knife should be different. Sam would then draw a shape and send it to me, and I would in turn give feedback on that. Sam started working on the first Camp Defenders in July. In August, I suggested a reduced-size variant, probably in 3V and thinner stock, with the goal of getting real chopping ability in the most compact knife possible.

In August and September, we worked on the blade shape of the compact version, which I called the ".75". On
September 24, 2011, Sam knew what I wanted for the first CD 2.75, which would be mine.

Time passes. In December of last year, Sam got me a micarta trainer for the 2.75. It feels goood. I had originally wanted the CD GunKoted, but decided before Sam finished that just the handle metal should be coated. (My reasoning being that the handle is the part of the knife least likely to violently strike something.) I also decided I wanted to use Spyderco's very compact G Clip instead of the bulkier BladeTech TekLock.

I got it today.

Sam had warned me that the 3V wasn't nearly as pretty finished out as other steels. I also note a few imperfections, and the top of the GunKote isn't even. The clip is definitely not the Spyderco G Clip.

On the positive side, none of the imperfections I note will affect usability at all, concealment isn't a major goal, and I'm fairly sure this is the most comfortable knife handle ever.

Coated with very persistent wax.
 

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The 2.75 will easily shave hair down most of the blade, though the base of the blade is less sharp. Pull cuts with paper aren't very clean, but push cuts are.

Here's the first ever swing, perhaps 50% force.
 

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I do think we should reduce the length of the guard a bit, perhaps 1/8". More feedback after I've had time to use it more. :)
 
Doh! The G-Clip. Dang it. That's easily fixed. I'll adjust that for you no problem, or just do a second sheath. :)

Yeah, coming up with a way to finish 3V that isn't coated has been a series of experiments. It sandblasts to a great surface for coating, but that isn't terribly pretty to look at when bare. It grinds pretty tough and doesn't polish. DOES NOT polish. I've done some pretty glossy work and I'm pretty persistent at getting a nice shine on most metals, but 3V holds onto each successive level of abrasive marks like mad. I'd be thrilled to hear of a more aesthetic way to shine it up.

I coated the blade first and then blasted what didn't want coating, but the lines there did not come out as sharp as I'd have hoped, and it seemed that doing more work to scrape/cut/sand the GK overage would have marred the metal. Got some ideas for next time, if that two-tone request comes up again.

The handle was really about the best I've done. I applied a lot of lessons learned, and then did a light sandblast of the blue handles. It is almost sticky in the hand, but not, somehow. I don't think it would raise blisters under heavy use as much as the high-polished Micarta or G10 I've done maybe could, but you simply won't lose your grip. The flip side of that is, like the blade material, the handles aren't as "pretty" or photogenic and show every touch, at least from my sweaty fingers.

I can't wait to see how the edge holds up. 3V is so good that I think it may be tougher than the previous CDs, which is saying something. Of course, adjustments to find the perfect blade/edge angle for the assigned task are easily accommodated. :)

Enjoy and let me know how it does! I'll post some pics I took a little later.
 
That's a classic handle design, and for good reason as you pointed out (comfort).

So you coated the handle?
 
A few pics...

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The small blade flats are left matte, as blasted. The 3V doesn't really come out like a satin finish blasted surface might be expected to. A bit more...something. Almost like uneven, but evenly uneven if that makes any sense. (Just thought of it: It looks grainy, like an old B&W photograph!) It would be interesting to try five or ten different types and screens of media to see what could be done.

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The bevels look pretty good in these shots, though obviously more hazy than shiny. But from some angles it's almost like the micro scratches just pop out at you. It's a good thing it is an incredible blade steel, 'cause it's a PITB to finish! :)
 

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The tang is coated with G10. On the off chance any moisture ever gets under the epoxy holding the handles on it won't rust.

I had some thick blue G10 that John really liked for the handles. It did polish up and look pretty cool, very "deep" looking, but then the sandblaster brought out the weave of the layers and looks and feels pretty great.

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Yeah, if you look again at the first two sets of pics, you can see that all the metal below the blade is coated with black GunKote.

I figure the handle metal is a lot less likely to get scratched than blade metal.
 
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