Chain-saws as bug-out tools?

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Preacherman

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I've had a number of reports over the past few days about folks who bought chain-saws to keep at home as emergency bug-out tools. It seems that they didn't use them prior to Katrina's arrival, but then they needed them big-time to clear trees from their property and from local roads during their bug-out routines. Apparently a number of them were injured while using the saws due to something described as a "chain backlash", or something like that; and others were hurt because chain-saws are apparently rather difficult for a novice to use at the best of times.

Does anyone know more about chain-saws than I do (I'm a complete novice)? In your experience, what are the dangers involved in using chain-saws? How does a novice learn to operate one safely?
 
I'm no chainsaw expert, but I use one regularly. 'Kickback' happens when you dig the point of the saw into the wood (or the ground). Most saws have a cutoff handle that the back of your hand will trip if it kicksback, killing the engine. Having been warned about kickback, I've never experienced it, so I can't describe it to you.

Anyone careful enough to safely handle firearms is ok to use a chainsaw IMO.
Keep the chain adjusted and sharp, and don't try to cut anything but wood. Wear safety goggles and gloves. Make sure your footing is solid. Don't get too close to the saw.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=chain+saw+safety
 
I don't think you'd need one to "bug out." You'd need it to come back home and make repairs.

When I was narrowly missed by Hurrican Andrew, I went to Home Depot the day afterwards, to buy some replacement screening. The check-out line went to the back of the store. It was all homeowners from the Homedale area, buying repair supplies. Everybody had some different stuff, but almost everybody had 2 items in common. A generator, so they could power their power tools (and fridge) and a grill, so they could cook.

In fact, there was this one guy--everyone in front of him in line had a generator. Everyone behind him didn't. I asked him about it. They ran out.

I learned from that.
 
Peter,

You've been to my house. The woods used to extend 50' further down the hill than the front garden and was as densly packed as the surrounding woods are now. I cleared all the trees by myself with a 16" chainsaw. When the "big snow of '92" hit the neighbors and I had to chainsaw a route out after 13 very large trees came down across our little road. In 30 years working with them in felling and breaking down probably over 100 trees I've come dangerously close to an injury only twice.

That said, a chainsaw is the most dangerous tool anyone can own. Leave too much play in the chain or forget to tighten the bar bolts and it can hop off the bar and flail the skin/muscle from your hands and legs. Get the tip into the wood and it can kick back and provide lots of plastic surgery options. Have your feet or leg below the horizontal piece you're cutting and you can check out the latest prosthetics. People with no experience and no training are maimed by the score with chainsaws every year.

I also consider them to be one of the greatest tools to have if you live in wooded areas because they can make 2 slices through a 2' diameter fallen pine in a couple of minutes that allow you to drag the blockage out of your path with a tow line and hitch (which I've done on more than a couple of occasions).

Your back won't allow you to operate one yet and for probably another year. When you do come on up and I'll give you a primer in their use.

I'd consider them to be a very valuable evac tool, but warranting a great deal of respect for what they can do to you.
 
Chainsaws would be a great bug out tool. Keep it maintained, sharp, and use it with care. My brother hates me to use a chainsaw, cause I take my time, slow and with great safety. I have never been cut, he has. :evil:
 
I used to heat with wood - get a good splittin' maul at the same time.

1) Heavy jeans
2) Steel toed boots that are at least as high as combat boots
3) A plastic helmet is nice
4) Safety glasses/goggles
5) Heavy leather gloves
6) Long-sleeve high collar heavy jacket
7) Patience - You'll cut a lot faster, so don't hurry

DO NOT cut with the point. Cut back toward the saw body. Watch what the point will go near - bad to be cutting a branch, and hit another. Keep your equipment sharp and well-regulated. Always plan EVERY cut before you start. Gravity is still the law.

Do not get fancy. Do not try crap you've seen on TV. In fact, if you've seen it on TV, that probably means you shouldn't do it. Cut down, never up.

Never had it get away from me, never got hurt.
 
You can do a lot with a small 12 - 14 inch electric unit if you have power. Still some of the same dangers but I think they are easier to handle and maintain. ;)
 
I've been trying to convince Dad to give me one of his two gas-powered chain saws since I bought my house, and to get his other one working again in case something happens. He's used only his electric one for the last 8 years since its less work to get/keep it running, I doubt the gas ones would even fire up without taking the carbs apart. :scrutiny:

Kharn
 
Chainsaws are worth having handy. The ability to rapidly cut wood yields the benefits of path and road clearing, the creation of firewood, shelter or fencing.

And yes, they are INCREDIBLY dangerous, and not particularly forgiving. There are details that MUST be attended to.

Like guns, if they weren't dangerous, they wouldn't be useful.
 
chain saws are just as dangerous as the man using it.

First off. Do not get a mongo "I'm a lumberjack!!" 30 inch 6 horsepower saw. I like stihl. The new ones start pretty good. If I were to use one only sporadically, I would add Stabil to the gas as a matter of course. I have three Stihls. one '09, a 024, and a 028. none of them are big ones just a little bigger than small. Mine are 14, 16, and a 20 inch bar. There used to be a very good vhs tape out by a guy who works for Husqvarna, the swedish saw maker that was outstanding in telling you how and what to do. It also shows you what a pair of saw chaps are worth when the guy bumps a running sharp saw chain into his chaps on purpose. The saw instantly grabs the material and sucks it into the saw and ties up the machine with no damage to the leg.

Get a small one and practice with it. buy a pair of saw chaps and a good pair of safety glasses. Mine run about 1/2 a day a week and the newest one is 5 years old and still seems like new.
 
I've used the Stihl 026 16" extensively when I was growing up in PA. As always, hso is dead on. I would also add that when I cut, I try to not place my leg or foot behind the saw in case it if it does kickback, all I'll get is a good scare.
 
I haven't looked recently, but there's usually quite a few posts about chainsaw safety in http://www.tractorbynet.com in the "Safety" forum. The majority of injuries are to the legs so at a minimum I'd recommend investing in a set of chainsaw chaps. They will jam the blade if you screw up and "touch" yourself. The biggest problem most people have with chainsaws is not looking ahead at where a tree might fall, how the saw will reach when it kicks back, etc. The injuries are pretty horrific though. I think you can pick up most of the safety equipment for $50 or less. If you want Kevlar chaps, etc then you're going to pay a bit more.

Have a good one,
Dave
 
Does a dozen or so years as a logger count as experience....? ;)

I can't imagine how anyone lives without a chainsaw. I've never hurt myself with a running saw (there's still a lot of sharp points when you're just carrying them around) but I would have to say that they are much more dangerous than guns - guns only shoot where you point them but a saw can spin around and get you. My daughters have been shooting for years but they have yet to use a chainsaw.

I actaully think that the bigger saws are safer, because you aren't as likely to be trying to use them one handed and in odd positions. And a long bar IMO is actually more likely to kickback clear over your head than directly into your body. But an $800+ Stihl 046 is not likely to be your first saw.

BTW, the chain-brakes don't stop the engine - they just apply a band to the drive clutch to stop the chain.

Don't buy anything except a Stihl or Husky!
 
... and don't try to cut anything but wood.
This bears repeating.

If the thing blocking the road has nails in it, you don't want to use a chainsaw anywhere there might be a nail.

pax

I'm a lumberjack and I'm OK. -- Monty Python
 
My little brother has an old chainsaw thats pretty tough, it still aint a Stihl though... One thing I hate about it is that it doesnt have a brake on it.

When I worked for Asplundh, all the saws we used were stihl or husqvarna (most were stihl), and they took a lot of abuse, so they're pretty mch where my brand loyaltly lies (I prefer Stihl, but wont turn down a husky). I've never worked with a Poulan. My little brother's saw is a McCulloch, and is decent. I hate homelite with a passion.
 
Lots of people up here carry them in their rigs during the winter, when trees can come down on the road.
 
Don't buy anything except a Stihl or Husky!

+1

1) Heavy jeans
2) Steel toed boots that are at least as high as combat boots
3) A plastic helmet is nice
4) Safety glasses/goggles
5) Heavy leather gloves
6) Long-sleeve high collar heavy jacket
7) Patience - You'll cut a lot faster, so don't hurry

Ear protection too!


Chainsaws are pretty dangerous but I feel pretty comfortable using one. Demolition saws scare the hell out of me.


Another thing to watch for if you are clearing a downed tree- the tree might be under some torsional tension, if you cut it, the trunk could snap back and hurt you vey badly. I've seen it happen once before, with the tree snappign back and breaking the man's patella.
 
If the thing blocking the road has nails in it, you don't want to use a chainsaw anywhere there might be a nail.

The other thing to be aware of is things like deer stand climbing spikes. I was cleaning up wood for a neighbor last year almost hit a few of those that the tree had grown around!

Have a good one,
Dave
 
if you are clearing a downed tree- the tree might be under some torsional tension
yes, definitely !!!!

Cutting up a tree on the ground can be more dangerous than falling a standing tree. It takes a long time to understand all the stresses involved and it's not something that can be taught on-line.

There are some serious books out there on all facets of falling and cutting up timber. The old one that I have was published in BC but I think there may be some newer versions available now.

try baileys-online.com for all sorts of supplies and information
 
Dionysusigma ~

If you have a lot of time, plenty of food, and plenty of clean water, an axe might help you clear the road to get out. Clearing the road with an axe, you're going to use up a lot of energy and your food/water needs will skyrocket because of the exertion. And it will take far, far more time than a chainsaw would. But yeah, you could probably do it, given enough time, enough water, enough energy & enough incentive.

But let's say your family is depending on you to get them to safety before the food and water is gone, or before the floodwaters finish rising and make passage entirely impossible. In that case, you're going to want to use the most efficient means possible to clear the road and go.

pax
 
lets not forget the possibility of facing a similar situation NO did.... a chainsaw would have helped many of them cut through the roof they were trapped in....
 
I will add - Don't work when tired

Most of us tend to be weekend warriors now, by that I mean most of us aren't used to hard manual labor. 35 years ago I could buck hay bales all day long and still be able to go out at night. Today, i would be tired in 30 minutes because I work on my butt.

Operating dangerous tools when your tired, is well, dangerous. Bad things happen when you are tired, you aren't paying attention, your strength levels are down, and you aren't using good judgement. In an emergency like what is happening now people are pushing themselves harder than than they should. Pace yourself, stop when you get tired. It's not worth an arm or a leg to make one last cut.
 
I want to add another point in a chainsaw'a favor. In a situation, I can and have produced a usable shelter with a chain saw in about a half hour. Not talking log cabin but a lean to that was capable of keeping me and my son at least marginally covered and protected.

It also beats the hell out of an axe in wet slippery situations for safety. With a chain saw, you get to plant your feet, steady your self and make a cut with your body mostly at rest. With an axe, you plant your feet and then start moving everything. I just feel safer with a chainsaw.

In a SHTF scene. being able to cut a days fire wood in ten minutes vs two hours. Makes a big difference to me.

I have carried two bodies out of the woods that had chain saw accidents. one was an accountant who was trimming some overhead branches for a tree stand and some how the saw came back over his head and snagged his neck and almost beheaded him. The other was a younger kid cutting pulp. somehow he got the saw into his inner thigh and he bled out. He was not wearing chaps. SO use these horrible accidents as a WARNING. do not play with them or take them lightly.
 
Great topic,

Definately a two part question. One is falling a standing tree the other is clearing brush etc... to make a path which is what we are really talking about. For any of us that go into the woods a camp axe and big toothed hand saw are a must. These items will take care of 95% of what you will run into. They take a little time and effort but are needed. There are two saws I carry around, one is the Stanley Shark or something like that and the other is a good pruning saw. You would be amazed at how fast these will actually go through timber. Limitation is the diameter of what you are cutting. Nothing larger than probably 14 inches in diameter which the axe can create. :D

Even in a shtf situation I wouldn't be caught without them. Chainsaws need gas, oil, sharpening, etc... get some practice if you get one. Don't be prepared without preparation.

Torque, twisting, support, and being able to predict the future are all things you will need to know when dealing with trees etc.. Trees are typically round with branches, I know that sounds basic but being round they want to roll and twist, the branches prevent them from doing this until cut so when limbing think about what the whole tree is going to do before you cut even one supporting branch, in a shtf situation you need to be even more careful that in the woods, downed power lines, fences and other debris can lie hidden in a pile of branches. Most novices will have the bar pinched within the first few cuts and then you have a stuck chainsaw. How you get it out depends on how it is stuck and this again takes practice and experience.

To put it into perspective a chainsaw is a tool to be used so if you buy one go use it. This is the best way to learn. Safety first with all of the above mentioned gear and although it is work if someone you know goes out cutting wood ask to go along. A lot of us learned from our dad's by watching and working. You start out limbing fallen trees and then work your way to discovering that if a tree falls in the woods it definately makes noise.
 
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