The bug out bicycle (long)

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I suppose I am. Part of it is sheer size. When I'm rail thin I still weigh 210 lbs. and can tear the handlebars out of their socket from sheer torque going up a hill. Talk about a :eek: moment :D I remember pulling a face when I realized the bars were loose in my hands and the bike had suddenly decided to head in its own direction.
 
cyclocrosses & other "hybrids"

Talk about a moment I remember pulling a face when I realized the bars were loose in my hands and the bike had suddenly decided to head in its own direction.
LOL! OMG, that's funny. Congrats on surviving that one. :)
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For commuting and bouncing around town, its hard to beat a cyclocross bike. I've got a Surly Crosscheck. http://www.surlybikes.com/
Sweet!

From their site: "A cyclocross bike by category, the Cross-Check has proven itself over and over in the real world, on the streets, in the dirt, through muck and sleet, blazing sun and dark of night, over exhilarating trails, through hectic traffic and long stretches of uninterrupted back road boredom. Are we serious? Absolutely. People have written us, time and again, telling us how they use it as their commuter, their around-towner, their touring bike; and each time, invariably, they compliment its handling, comfort, and durability (so happy, they seem to forget how affordable it was)."

Mikey likes it!

I seem to want a hybrid bike, for lack of a better term: something that's not road bike per se (I'm not interested in racing), but not a pure MTB, either. Somthing intermediate, with solid frame, comfortable H-bars, and big tires for unpaved roads, but without full on MTB lugs. (My Trek 520 can't handle fat tires; frame is too small, so riding on "dirt" roads is a real schlog.).

It's a bit hard to tell from the photo, but their Cross-check looks like a candidate.
Anybody know what their price range is? I don't find prices listed on the site.
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I've been spending some time exploring the page recommended by rwc (post #11 of this thread; thanks!). http://www.outyourbackdoor.com/list_articles.php?catid=2

In particular, I've found these two articles linked to that page to be useful & inspiring:

Country bikes: http://www.outyourbackdoor.com/article.php?id=397

All rounders: http://www.outyourbackdoor.com/article.php?id=75

Haven't fully perused them yet, but plan too.
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Thinking about one of those folding bicycles as something to throw in the back of the truck. New Mexico has long stretches of nowhere that you really do not want to break down in...
NMShooter. Geez, I miss NM a lot.

Funny you mention folding bikes. There's a company in the town I currently live in (but not for long) called Bike Friday that makes exceptional folding bikes. (In fact, one of my former students, who also works there, is the daughter of the founder/owner.)

Their site is: http://www.bikefriday.com/

Not my cup of tea since I haul a cargo trailer & large truck with plenty of room for a full sized bike, but for those long NM/AZ/NV stetches where you wouldn't want to walk for days, they could be great.
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Wow, how cool is this thread? On one forum, I can learn about autoloaders (just got my new Kahr k9 yesterday <beams with joy>), shotguns (will soon buy Rem 870P) and cool bike stuff. Life is good. ;)

NemA~
 
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www.montaguebikes.com

Looks pretty durable.

Sometimes I get messed with while walking on the sidewalk. Just minding my own business, out for excercise or going somewhere at night or midday does not seem to matter.

Albuquerque has become just like any other big city.

Well, you can carry here, so it could be much worse...

Every motorcycle rider I have ever known carried a pistol. I am sure there are some who do not, but I have yet to meet them.
 
I'm still riding a near-perfect Schwinn Continental 10-speed racer. I'm about to look seriously at mountain bikes, and the Giants with the disc brakes have interested me. Still love my old Schwinn for around town, though.
 
Another great thing about cycling is that being in good aerobic shape is one of the best preparations you can make for any sort of bad event, be it SHTF or something less. It also helps ward off one of the most common causes of family SHTF, namely heart attacks...

After a brief dalliance with mountain bikes (mostly ridden on roads), I've returned to the world of road bikes via a recent yard sale acquisition...two new tires from the bike shop and I'm back on the road... :)
 
I have 2 friends that handgun hunt for antelope on mountain bikes.

I'm told a Trek makes a good long range rest for a Contender in .30-30
 
Disk brakes shouldn't be a selling point but they're nice if they happen to come with the package. Make sure it is a reputable brand like Hayes. I've seen cheapie department store bikes come out with no-name disk brakes and shocks that I wouldn't really trust.

If you're hauling gear, chances are you aren't going recklessly fast down a hill and need massive stopping power or going through really big mud puddles which would wet down your rims on traditional rim braking systems.

If it's a "must have" gadget for a bike, then I suggest fronts only since most braking force is done with the front brakes. Just lean your butt backwards past the rear of the seat, sling low, and don't squeeze too hard or you'll do a faceplant. I learned the hard way when I first got my DH bike. Disk brakes are way "stoppier" than cantilevers :eek:

There are many good MTB brands like Specialized, Diamondback, Schwinn, Santa Cruz, Marin, Kona, Intense, etc. They get spendier as you move up in that order in general but the first three brands are popular enough that they make intro bikes to advanced ones. The later like Intense mainly build racing rigs but they're as tough as they come since DH racers use them and freestyle racers drop those rigs off 10 ft+ cliffs.
 
Something to add to your bug out bike is a BOB (Beast of Burden) trailer. I've had two, current one has suspension and can easily carry 70 lbs. It's a single wheel trailer, tracking is excellent. This is the trailer the majority of touring (long distance) riders use. Their website is here http://www.bobtrailers.com/

I ride 100+ miles a week and have some general observations about bikes. Keep it simple is better. Disc brakes are nice, but they're complicated - same with suspension. Don't have crap on your bike that takes special parts. Wheels are important, lots of spokes are better than fewer (36 is a good number). Loaded bikes break spokes, the more spokes you have the better. Steel frames absorb road variations better than aluminum - it can also be repaired almost anywhere. Try getting aluminum welded at your local garage welding shop, it's not easy. Basic, small toolkits that can fix 95% of what goes wrong on a bike are available for under $25. Get one, know how to use it and make sure it's on your bike.
 
Great thread. Like Rick Reno, I also ride about 100 miles a week. Unlike Rick and everyone else here, I still don't know squat about them (and I've taken a bicycle maintenance course too) other than to keep 'em simple, hop on and pedal. That Beast of Burden looks very promising if you have to travel with some equipment.

One thing not mentioned is rainwear. I've got rainpants and a jacket to keep the water out. While I don't mind riding in the rain (it cools you off), you can catch cold once you stop and you're soaking wet (depends on how cold the climate is in your area). If we're talking about bug out, then be prepared for cold weather. Also wear a brainbucket (keep your noggin intact) and wrap around sunglasses. I ride along the beach and the beadblasting/sandblasting effect is not very pleasant.
 
Rest Of The Story?

"It shortened the frame by two inches--the metal just folded like an accordion".
==========================================
Come on, enough suspense, tell us how far over the handle bars you landed? :D
 
I had to come back to this thread with another suggestion for a bicycle accessory. As I mentioned, I do a lot of riding in the good weather here, and one of the handiest things I use is a Camelbak hydration pack. I have three: the Hawg, the MotherLode and the Hi-Viz. I use the Hawg and MotherLode for hiking, and the Hi-Viz for bicycling. Although I still keep a water bottle on the bike, the Camelbaks are so much easier to use on the move.

Also, I cannot emphasize enough the earlier suggestion on the primary way to have a smooth-riding bicycle: clean and lubricate the drive train. Nothing will ruin your drive train quicker than to ride with it dirty. The dirt and lubricant combine to make a wonderful grinding paste which is extremely abrasive to the components.

Before every ride, I wipe down the chain with an alcohol wipe to clean and degrease it. Doing this daily wipe down of the chain means that I have to break out the chain cleaner/degreaser kit for a deep cleaning only once a month or so. Every few rides, I spray the cassette with citrus-based degreaser and brush out the chain cogs. Unlike the first poster, I do not use Simple Green as a degreaser solely because SG corrodes aluminum. Even on a steel-frame bike, the drivetrain can contain aluminum parts, and my bike frame is also aluminum.

I then relube the chain as necessary. I have tried all the fancy dry Teflon lubricants for the chain, but have discovered that they do nothing to prevent chain rust. I keep coming back to BreakFree CLP as a chain lubricant, which is pretty handy, since I have enough CLP on hand to last me several years!

So while we are on the subject, what do other people here do about defending yourself from the dogs that want to take a chunk from your ankle?
 
When it comes to bugging out, remember that the camelbak bladder can be dropped into almost any pack. I don't usually road bike with a camelbak, but always take it on mountain bike rides.
 
Back in the mid 90's when I was working in bike shops you could buy the new swiss army bike. It was several thousand dollars and built like a tank. 50 plus pounds. Oshner out of the windy city was the distributer. It was a 7 speed internal hub ( like the old three speeds). I saw one at an interbike show. I ride on the road for fun and have a old giant 760 for around town and stuff. If I was ever going to camp off a bike I would get a trailer. I think the swiss still have there mt bike troops. I could be wrong. Patrick http://www.yellowjersey.org/swiss.html
 
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"It shortened the frame by two inches--the metal just folded like an accordion". Come on, enough suspense, tell us how far over the handle bars you landed?

At the time I was looking at a hawk flying overhead while riding onto a bridge over the Willamette River in Eugene. I didn't see that the path was narrowing and ran into part of the bridge. I did a pretty good launch into the bridge's railing but didn't go into the river thankfully. I actually drove the bike the rest of the way to work and it was only later that I realized the bike was two inches shorter. It's a good thing it didn't snap apart on me.
 
trailers, chains & water

This thread just keeps getting better.

The BOB trailer is very nice. Thanks, Rick_Reno. I've seen them on the road, but never looked closely even read a description. That it carries 70# in a 5600 cu in dry sack is totally cool. That is very close to my expedition sized backpack (Gregory Atlas, no longer made). Why, I could just about get the 870 strapped on to it. {Adds BOB Yak trailer to wish list.}

MillCreek, your chain maintenance ideas are great. Thanks very much. I confess, I'm one of those that doesn't do as well with maintenance issues, which is bad, bad, bad. :(

(Excuse: new business for last few years that has eaten my lunch time wise. Only in the last few weeks have i had a bit of a break to catch up on long neglected issues.) The daily (or at least after every ride) cleaning routine sounds very wise.

MillCreek & JamisJockey, a question for you and others about the hydration systems like camelbacs. How do you clean them, especially once they get a bit... um, slimmy inside? :uhoh:

My Arc'teryx Bora pack came with hydration system support; in this case, i put a kelty bag into it. First time I used it (or any other such apparatus) was last summer in the desert of E. Oregon. Before getting that, I've always carried a waistbelt mounted holster for a 0.5 L canteen on my backpack, and drink from it often (I don't even have to stop walking. I liked the hydration system ok, especially having cool water on a hot day. But the cleaning issue has still been problematic for me.
 
In terms of cleaning the Camelbak, I finally broke down and bought one of the Camelbak cleaning kits for $ 20. This contains a 42" long very thin brush for cleaning out the drinking hose and valving, a contoured brush to clean the bladder, and most importantly, a hanger that props the bladder open for rapid drying. Subsequent to paying $ 20 for this at REI, I saw a Cyclone hydration cleaning kit, with the same functional items as the Camelbak, for $ 6.84 at my closest Wal-Mart. Suffice it to say, I would rather pay the $ 7 to WallyWorld than the $ 20 to REI.

Formerly, I just reached in with a sponge and cleaned the inside and outside of the bladder with hot soapy water, draining it through the drinking hose. I then took off the bite valves and hose and cleaned them separately. I then rinse everything inside and out with clear water.

The tough part was getting the bladder to fully dry. I would try to prop it open down inside, so the air could get to it, but that was often difficult. So the hanger that goes down inside the bladder and props it open is just great. Once the bladder is clean and dry, I reassemble everything, and put the bladder (with the lid open in case there is any residual water) inside a large ziplock bag that I store inside my Camelbak. That way, the next time I go to use that pack, the bladder is clean, dry and ready to fill.

If any water is left in the bladder when it is put away, this is a perfect breeding ground for slime. If the bladder is very slimy, I would soak the bladder, hose, and bite valve inside and out in a dilute bleach solution for about 20 minutes, and would then clean, rinse and dry as shown above.

Since I don't go on hiking trips back to back, I clean those bladders after every trip. For my Hi-Viz that I use for cycling, where I often go for a ride every day or every couple of days, I clean that bladder after every three rides. Otherwise, I just empty it and hang it to dry overnight.

So I think the hydration bladder cleaning kits are an excellent idea, particularly for only $ 7 at WallyWorld. By the way, I found the cleaning kit in the sporting goods section, hanging right next to the hydration packs.

And on the Swiss Army bikes, I think the new Paratrooper or Hummer folding models by Montague are probably the closest things currently made. Although a few years ago, either Sportsman's Guide or Cheaper than Dirt were selling surplus Swiss Army bikes. They had no suspension and weighed a ton. I often wondered if they were really more designed to be loaded and then pushed, just like the VC did on the Ho Chi Minh trail.

Edited to add: I just followed the link on the Swiss Army bicycle and was bummed to see that they are no longer made. Although at a price of $ 3 and 4,000 respectively, for the two models, I wonder just how many were sold on the civilian market. God knows that at a price like that, the first time it got into a crash, I would weep like a baby!
 
When it comes to CamelBaks bleach is your friend. :)

Has anyone ever used one of those trailers off road?

If you were on a steep mountain trail could you still pull it?
 
trek is satisfactory, but maybe some new tires

first, thanks for the good tips re the water bladders. i'll try them out soon.
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ok, so there is a question about Schwalbe Maraton Plus tires at the bottom of this post. But first, a story. (If you're not into stories, jump to the bottom. ;)

all this talk of bikes has made me hungry to see what else might be out there that's better than my 8 year old Trek 520. my main motivation for trading has been, I want bigger tires than the 37-622's on it, but more than one bike shop had led me to believe I couldn't get much bigger due to frame dimensions & gap between break pads. (Turns out they may have been wrong.)

i've spent a fair amount of time in recent days reading on line descriptions, looking at images, listening to/reading stories about 'my favorite bike & why', etc.

i was most interested in the Surly bikes. Nice look, nice idea, clearly quality with a solid skeleton for a reasonable price (basic preassembled model ~800, fully loaded for 1200. if you're willing to build it yourself from frame up, the same ones will save you a fair amount).

ok, so i found a local Surly dealer. today, i looked at a Surly CrossCheck, their basic model (& perhaps the only one that comes preassembled??)

Clearly a nice bike. this one was bright, but pleasant orange. nice hardware (can't tell you exactly ... i'm not one to remember bike hardware by name, but this was clearly not Walliworld stuff). Good solid frame. Beefy, but not as heavy as i expected. Relative to my trek 520, i'm not sure i could feel a diference. $800.

But what told me right away that i wasn't going to gain too much from a trade up was the tires. for some reason, i expected that the standard tires on the CrossCheck were going to be FAT, like 40's or 47's. (It's hard to tell from images, because all the images were from the side, none from front or rear.

But they weren't fat. At least on the one that i looked at, they were more cyclocross tires, like 37.

Which led to the next question to the sales person, clearly a hardcore biker/bike builder: will you look at my bike to see if i can get a fatter tire that won't be so prone to face plants when hitting edges & cracks.

Well, after he looked at my bike, it's components (it was rebuit and upgraded a couple of years ago), condition etc, he mostly talked me out of a Surly. "I'd love to sell you a bike, but there's nothing wrong with what you got. you wouldn't gain that much. a bit heavier frame, but not much else."

OK, that makes me happy. I didn't even test ride the Surly. No sense tempting fate, right? (I mean, i'd have an extra $520 in my pocket if i hadn't picked up that Kahr K9 at the shop the other day. Actually, less than that with trade in, but you know what i mean.)

OK, so to the tire question: what's the biggest I can get on this trek. He went inside and drug out a couple of the meanest, thickest, biggests tires this side of MTB tires you can imagine: Schwalbe Marathon Plus in a 40-622.

Wow. They're 40's, but look considerably bigger.

Plus, the part of the tire that meets the road is the thickest i've ever felt in a bike tire. They have a 5mm thick rubber protection band built into the tire. Not a liner, but a layer.

Here's a brief snippet from their page about it: " The technicians in the Bohle laboratory had to redevelop test procedures in order to puncture the tube inside the Marathon Plus. None of the usual tire destroyers like glass, flints or shards would penetrate the tread and only by extreme application of force could the technicians break through the protection, that in the everyday life would be extremely improbable. To back up this trial numerous test riders are still waiting for the first flat on their daily travels. This new advance in puncture protection is due to the five millimeter thick Smart Guard puncture protection belt made from special india rubber that in conjunction with the tread and carcass brings the total to almost a centimeter of material between the tube and road. "So strong nothing penetrates", assures Bohle technician Markus Hachmeyer. For example a thumbtack will remain lodged in the rubber and cannot penetrate."

http://www.schwalbetires.com/new_marathon_plus.html

Yep, that strikes me as a good tire for a SHTF situation. <active imagination> After the petrocollapse, there were food riots for days. At 3 AM, as I was trying to ride quietly out of town on my trek pulling a BOB Yak loaded with 60# of gear & food, there was broken glass everywhere. The Schwalbe's worked great. Nothing penetrated...</active imagination>

They aren't cheap: $45 per tire. (Yes, per tire). Still, with a couple of new tubes, and i figure i'm more flat free for a while for just under a C note.

The one issue that i may have a problem with is the back fender; it may not fit with the larger tires. Never liked it anyway, so will probably replace it with a simpler splash guard.

So, finally, here's my question: have you had any experiences with these tires? Specifically, thinking of the Marathon Plus, but at least Schwalbe. Comments? Opinions?

NemA~
 
I know nothing at all about trying to fit these tires on a Trek 520 frame, but from the description, that sounds like one heck of a tire. Sounds like a very good option for a bug-out bike. And that price isn't too bad. My last pair of WTB Timberwolf MTB tires cost me $ 35 each. I note that Performance is currently selling the Schwalbe Marathon MTB tire for $ 29.99 on sale.
 
Has anyone ever used one of those trailers off road?

Yes, I have - many times. My old BOB without the shock did about 600 miles off-road, about double that on the road. I replaced it with the YAK, it's got a shock and stops the bounce you get out of the unshocked model when off-road. It's MUCH easier to pull off-road, it's made for it. You'll see a lot of them on the Great Divide trail (from Canada to Mexico, thru the Rockies) - highly recommended. The YAK came with bosses for 4 water/gas/whatever bottles too, a nice addition.
It's amazing but uphill and flats I don't notice the trailer. Going downhill with a loaded trailer and you can go a lot faster in less time, but uphill and flats you won't even know it's there. I've carried chainsaws/shovels in it when doing trail work, no problem.
 
camelbacks

stretch out a plastic coated coat hanger so it will fit in the filler neck, then you can hang it by the hook. Bleach and hot water will take care of the rest.

I have a diamondback topanga I bought about 5-7 years ago, only thing I have done is change the chain and tires. I'm thinking about taking it in for a massive overhaul.

Brandon
 
riding with an open top holster

Howdy all,

Have any of you ever ridden a bike while wearing an open top holster?

Here's why I'm asking: I'm narrowing down my decision about a holster for a new handgun (Kahr K9), and am leaning strongly towards an FBI cant (15 degree forward), open top model without a thumb break.

I've never owned a really good holster before - always in the past, cheapo synthetic ones - but I understand that most good ones (which is all I'm looking at) will do a nice job of holding the gun in fairly snugly even without a thumb break.

But I'm not sure about how good that retention is while riding a bike in which I'll be leaning forward substantially. For example, when I'm stretching out on the flats on my Trek, I tend to lean over to a point that my belt canters forward by about 40-45 degrees. Given that the holster already cants forward, I'm wondering if the additional lean of the rider on the bike will cause potential gun drop problems.

Any advice?

Gracias,

NemA~
 
JMO but if a holster doesn't need a form of retention now..it will later. You might want to consider something with a retention screw. FIST makes quite a few,and you can even have them add a trigger guard screw. I'v had 2 of their holsters(with the screws)and would'nt hesitate to buy another. You can find them at http://www.gunnersalley.com/ and save a few bucks +.
I'v got a Gary Fisher Tassajara,I bought last spring. I'd been doing 75-80 miles a week between trail & road riding until I got sidelined by a minor surgery last week. Hopefully I can hit it again in another month or so. Its pretty wet and muddy around here except in the summer and as I had one legwetting experience on a long downhill already I'm definitly gonna add an Avid mech disc in the front at least. I plan on using it for hunting and it seems that with a front and rear pannier(or rear rack) and bags,you could carry 60-70 lbs couldn't you? I want a YAK but that'll probably come next year. Does that Slime stuff really work,and is there any downsides to using it?
 
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