Charcoal Blue vs Regular Blue?

[TheWarhammer]

I'm narrowing it down to which C&B revolver I'm going to get. I know it will be a Dragoon, probably a 2nd Model. I'd get a 3rd Model if there was any remote chance I could get a stock for it, but that looks unlikely. Besides, I like the look (purely aesthetic) of the square-backed trigger guard better. I know all of this is somewhat moot, as I'm sure this will turn out to be the first of many BP guns I will buy.

Anyway, Buffalo Arms offers two 2nd Model Dragoons. Both are "manufactured by Uberti to Cimarron's high standard of excellence." (I have heard that the Cimarron Ubertis have better QC than the non-Cimarron pistols. True?) One is blued and the other (for $46 more) has a "charcoal blue" finish. However, the picture for the charcoal blued model is of a standard blued model.

Does anyone have a picture that would show the difference between a charcoal blued pistol and a normally blued pistol? Is the charcoal blued model worth the extra $46?

Links:
Regular blued model for $344
Charcoal blued model for $390

 

[ClemBert]

Here is a picture of my recently purchased Uberti 1858 Remmie from Buffalo Arms and imported by Cimarron. As you can see it has the color case hardened frame and charcoal blue barrel and cylinder. Its a long story but basically I bought the regular blued version for $277 and ended up with this charcoal blue one at no additional cost even though they typically charge $333 for it.



As you can see, the charcoal blue is very pretty. It is however NOT durable. Over time the charcoal blue finish will take on a pleasant grayish antiqued look. Some people desire the antiqued look while other prefer a modern blued finish. Here's a statement from Cimarron:

CHARCOAL BLUE WARNING: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO TOUCH UP CHARCOAL BLUE. This is a heat oxidation process. Chemical cold blue compounds will discolor the finish. DO NOT USE CLEANING FLUIDS such as lacquer thinner, acetone or bore solvents on charcoal blue, this will remove the finish. Use only lubricants such as WD-40, Tri-flow, Break Free, 3 in 1, Hoppes or Outers gun oils, Havoline, etc. Beer or Coca Cola will remove the delicate finish. Charcoal Blue is extremely delicate and with use will cause the firearm to appear aged and worn. If you do not desire an aged look we do not recommend this finish.

The following pic might give you an idea of the difference in look of new firearms in standard blue, charcoal blue, and stainless steel.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

He's right, but I don't think the bluing takes on a gray finish, I think the blue actually comes off over time from use. That's what the gunsmith told me. Bluing with salts you get a deeper, more durable blue, which is why it is still used. The charcoal blue is a bit more "authentic" depending on what time frame and firearm you are talking about.

LD

 

[ClemBert]

In this writeup there's talk that it ages to a soft gray patina. Obviously, this isn't the firearm you plan to order but the finishing is probably the same for all Uberti's with Charcoal Blue Finish.

Also this blurb from Uberti regading Charcoal Blue Finish:

WARRANTY NOTICE!!
CHARCOAL BLUE FINISH: Derives its name from the high-temperature fire blueing
process involved in attaining the deep royal blue color. Charcoal Blue is
more delicate than standard blue: the gun must be constantly oiled
and with use will become a desirable smoke gray “patina” finish
as on an antique gun.

If using the firearm as a shooter I'm not sure I'd pay extra for the Charcoal Blue Finish. If you are going to shoot the hell outta of it like I plan on doing you're not going to end up with that purty blue. Although you may like the gray patina finish over time. FWIW

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Thanks for the reference Good to know. I like the old sorta brownish patina myself, right out of the box. I took the blue off my 1858 Remmy and antiqued up right nice.

LD

 

[TheWarhammer]

Thanks for the info, guys. Since I don;t own any guns that aren't frequent shooters, I certainly won't be paying extra for a less durable finish!

 

[AdmiralB]

Uberti's "charcoal blue" is heat treated, it's the same as the colors that chromed exhaust pipes take on after a while. It's not a surface treatment or plating process.

 

[flibuste]

I have both finish and I noticed that colors are not the only difference between both :Charcoal blue Ubertis are much more polished than regular blue or SS ones ; In addition they are polished everywhere, even in the inside parts, which is not the case of others.

This polish will change the look of the pistol also (old Colt were usually more polished than current replicas)

Mine tend to get tobacco color on the cylinder . If you like "as new lok" I do not recomment this finish. If you like the look of old authentic gun it can be a good choice

Regards

 

[DrLaw]

I've seen a charcoal blue Beretta Stampede that was sitting in a gun shop shelf because from handling, the color came off the grip and the guy could not sell it.

At the time, I did not know that the color was supposed to wear off, so I passed on it, too.

That pretty color does wear off. Sweaty palms wore it off that gun.

The Doc is out now.

Beer or Coca Cola will remove the delicate finish

(What, I couldn't take that gun drinking with me? )

 

[ClemBert]

Ubertis are much more polished than regular blue

Yup, I should have mentioned that too. The grain of the finished product is much finer (aka high polish finish) on the charcoal blue Uberti vs the standard finish. It kind of reminds me of the high polish on my Remington BDL 30-06 rifle.

 

[scrat]

Then you have the custom colored

 

[scrat]