Charter Arms Bulldog ejector rod sticking

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Rowdy Raven

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Hey folks! I have an older Charter Arms Bulldog .44 that works fine with one exception. That is, when I go to eject the rounds the ejector rod will push the casings out but upon release the ejector stays pushed out instead of returning home. With a quick twist of the ejector rod the ejector reseats itself. I shot some Break Free into the mechanism with little improvement. Ideas? Thanks
 
Because it is an older revolver, I would be in favor of a detailed cleaning next before assuming anything else is wrong. If you are not comfortable with disassembly/re-assembly, see the attached about Ed's Red.

http://handloads.com/articles/default.asp?id=9

I would use an aerosol (non-chlorine brake cleaner for me) to blow it out AFTER an overnight soak with grips removed and as much disassembly-inspection (lube after blow-out) as you are comfortable with.

P.S. I have had success with fingernail polish remover for the Acetone, Coleman camping lamp fuel for the K1 kerosene. Even if it does not solve your ejector rod problem, IMHO you still will likely benefit an older revolver and it very well might.

Regards
 
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I bought my wife a Charter Arms 38spcl lavender lady for mothers day a couple of years ago and had a problem with the ejector sticking up just enough to keep the cylinder from being closed. I called them and they told me to send it to them and they fixed it right up and I had it back in a week. They told me to send it by UPS and label it as "machined parts" to keep it legal and all. She almost cried when I gave it to her because that is the first time anyone ever bought her a brand new gun and she carries it everywhere she goes. They have great Customer service and I believe they will fix it even if you are not the original owner. Good luck
 
Mine did the same not long after getting it.

Of course I worried about bends, rust, gremlins, whatever...

Tore it all the way down and cleaned the bejeepers outa it. Never since.

Keep in mind to reassemble with the ejector rod collar the correct way-'round.

Todd.
 
Todd,
The rod seems to move freely until the end. Then it sticks. What are the steps in taking this thing apart? Is there a procedural written out on this or pics? Also, should I reassemble using blue loc-tite? Thanks so much!
 
The problem might be in the front end of the ejection assembly.
Here's the parts view for the gun:
http://www.charterfirearms.com/pdfs/Bulldog_Diagram.pdf
Check to see if there's resistance and sticking between parts 24 and 25.
The spring can get distorted and hang up on the sleeve it fits into.
Also clean and lightly lube the other end, part 1.
If you want to remove that part from the rod, and inspect and clean the spring inside, there's a small pin that needs to be drifted out (part 20).
But just spraying down and around at both ends, with an aerosal cleaner with a small nozzle should do without actually needing to disassemble anything.
 
Ok, I'll give it a go and see what happens. BTW as I understand it there are no accurate records of Date of Manufacture for the early CA handguns. That being said, any idea about when mine may have been produced? Serial number 4465XX? Thanks!!!
 
I wouldn't take it apart...yet.

First, flush the area really well with WD-40, cleaning solvent, Powder Blast, etc. Get in there with rags and Q-tips and clean well. Oil lightly. then function the rod a number of times. See if that works. I think it's just some goop in there. Happens in ejector rod assemblies.

If not...then take it apart or call Charter.
 
If you don't want to take it apart I would advise applying some solvent and using compressed air 2 or 3 times. If that doesn't fix it - you get to take it apart. Having worked on Charters I would recommend you read up on it and do it in a place where ANY flying parts will be contained (use a big cardboard box on your counter. Charters are very different from most revolvers. You may need an extra hand to reassemble. Most new Charters and Rugers will have a lot of grit left in them by the factory. It needs to be removed.
 
Todd,
The rod seems to move freely until the end. Then it sticks. What are the steps in taking this thing apart? Is there a procedural written out on this or pics? Also, should I reassemble using blue loc-tite? Thanks so much!
Unscrew number 27 from number 23 (25 & 26 will follow it off.

I also like to remove screw 4 (you may or may not have washer 5) to get more access inside the cylinder.

Blast any aliens out with a good aerosol cleaner and check for sticktion when you put it back together.

These almost always present a bit of a binding feeling with very light lubes. That's all it took for mine.

Getting to removing pin 21 can be a pain though only requires a paperclip to remove once spring pressure is relieved and fat-end tweezers to replace - again, with spring pressure carefully relieved. I wouldn't bother with that though unles parts replacement ie required - shouldn't need to mess with #21 just to clean it up.

Todd.
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