Check out my rusty LCP.
- Thread starter CPshooter
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For the record, I'm using FP-10 "Shooter's Choice." The same stuff I use on all my handguns. Never had a problem with this oil. It's worked great for years now. It smells like cinnamon too.
FP-10 does not protect against rust any better than 3-in-1 or other basic oil products. While that should be sufficient for a few days or more on a blued gun (the bluing actually helps retain oil for preservation), clearly it is not in your case.
Probably the simplest solution would be to switch to Weapon Shield CLP and see if that does the trick. I hope that I don't sound like a shill for this product, but it has worked well for me and I'm just trying to help. It happens to be designed by the same person who originally created FP-10, and it also smells like cinnamon.
He has improved the product in every way, including rust prevention. It performs among the best in this regard, although there are better. Eezox, for example, is serious medicine for rust-prone guns, but it doesn't seem to be as good a lube or solvent, and it smells toxic. Weapon Shield Grease is actually a better lube and preservative than either of these, so it's worth considering as well (yes, it smells a lot like FP-10, too--makes me hungry for breakfast pastry ). If you lightly coat your gun with this stuff and wipe it off with a rag, then it should be able to resist even a saltwater spray for days on end. Unfortunately, a grease is not the best product for treating your gun's bore, so you might need one of the others, in addition.Well, OK, since you JUST checked it. Maybe this makes me a Safety Nazi, but I never point assembled guns at anybody even if I did just check because I'd rather consistently reinforce a good habit every chance I get, but that's just me.
You never know what sort of chemicals may be floating around that can promote the formation of rust. You can either treat the gun's finish more frequently or use one of the products I suggested above.
Blued guns have been used successfully in all types of situations and environments throughout much of the history of firearms. They require more maintenance than some modern guns, and that's simply what people used to give them. Hopefully some of the newer corrosion-inhibiting products available today can make this less of a hassle.
rusty firearm left in car
Heck the inside of a car experiences a wide range of humidity and temperature extremes over the course of a day. And moisture does build up and then evaporate in a cyclical fashion. So seeing rust on a firearm that's left inside a vehicle doesn't really come as a surprise to me.
I wouldn't leave anything that can rust inside my vehicle espically a firearm that some drug crazed smash & grab idiot might get their hands on.
The rust shouldn't be hard to remove. But despite what you apply to the metal, will probably return if not constantly cared for.
Heck the inside of a car experiences a wide range of humidity and temperature extremes over the course of a day. And moisture does build up and then evaporate in a cyclical fashion. So seeing rust on a firearm that's left inside a vehicle doesn't really come as a surprise to me.
I wouldn't leave anything that can rust inside my vehicle espically a firearm that some drug crazed smash & grab idiot might get their hands on.
The rust shouldn't be hard to remove. But despite what you apply to the metal, will probably return if not constantly cared for.
That hard-chrome LCP looks great! I might just have to sell mine when it comes back from Ruger (while it still looks new), and buy the Talo edition to replace it. HC would be great for a pocket gun since it's much more corrosion-resistant than blued steel. Thanks for the heads up!
Hey guys,
I need to ship my slide and barrel to Ruger. Is it legal for me to ship both of these components via USPS (or UPS) without having to go through an FFL dealer?
I thought I read somewhere that the serial numbered frame is considered the "firearm" and the rest are just "components." Any input on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I need to ship my slide and barrel to Ruger. Is it legal for me to ship both of these components via USPS (or UPS) without having to go through an FFL dealer?
I thought I read somewhere that the serial numbered frame is considered the "firearm" and the rest are just "components." Any input on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
RevolvingGarbage
Member
That would be true, without the frame the barrel and slide are legally not much different from two hunks of bar stock.
Did Ruger say to just ship the slide and barrel though? seems they usually want the complete gun for "fitting" purposes.
Did Ruger say to just ship the slide and barrel though? seems they usually want the complete gun for "fitting" purposes.
Its worth keeping your finger off of the trigger even if you checked the chamber. Were you planning on firing the gun? No? Then keep yer finger off of the trigger! A picture like that tends to make me think it was also negligence that cause the gun to rust, not the fault of Ruger.
Relax, friend. I'll admit I was trying so hard to get a decent shot with my camera that I wasn't paying attention where my finers were. Since I don't take pictures of loaded pistols, the location of my fingers was not a concern at the time. Get over it, please.
It usually takes me at least an hour to clean/lube one pistol after a range session. That's how anal I am with my firearms. Please stop suggesting otherwise.
W.E.G.
Member
Cars eat guns.
This we know.
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Post pics of guns with your finger on the trigger on THR, get ready for a scolding.
This we know.
This we know.
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Post pics of guns with your finger on the trigger on THR, get ready for a scolding.
This we know.
I realize that the pistol was unloaded and that you were not strictly in violation of the first rule of safety because you checked it just then, however most experienced, safe shooters will habitually place their trigger finger along the frame (or even partly on the slide to be sure). In my opinion, this is not something that one should even need to think about, especially when one may be distracted--your trigger finger should automatically be placed on the frame and outside of the trigger guard every single time you handle a firearm, and should only touch the trigger when on the verge of firing and only after target identification has been made. Placing one's finger on the trigger is a common instinct, and one that I've had to overcome myself through practice and keeping an eye on consistency. I strongly recommend that you do the same.
The same principle applies to not pointing guns at people or things you do not wish to destroy--it should become a habit that you have to deliberately override in order to shoot even paper targets. There should be no need to decide how to act based on whether a gun is loaded--you just do what comes naturally. If you think about it, strict adherence to the first rule will then follow, because pointing guns in a safe direction and keeping your finger off the trigger will always be in force, regardless of whether a gun is loaded.
This is not about being paranoid or hyper-vigilant--like all things, people eventually become comfortable with firearms when they've handled them enough over time, but those who have developed good habits will be a lot safer than those who do not address their bad habits. We're not Nazis trying to embarrass you or run your life--we just don't want you, your loved ones, or any bystanders to get shot, that's all. You evidently have bad firearm handling habits like most of us did at one point, and if you think that's perfectly fine and would rather be concerned about preventing a little rust, then you need to get over it.
:Jon_in_wv
It is kind of simple actually water causes steel to rust, drop steel un-plated nails into water they rust in about 60 minutes, depending on your water. Then you wipe the nails down with any rust preventative and see if they stop the nail from rusting.
Try it, see how it works, no rust on my guns for twenty years and running.
It is kind of simple actually
water causes steel to rust, drop steel un-plated nails into water they rust in about 60 minutes, depending on your water. Then you wipe the nails down with any rust preventative and see if they stop the nail from rusting. Try it, see how it works, no rust on my guns for twenty years and running.
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Actually the rust is caused by the OXIDATION of iron and oxygen in the presence of water.
The oxygen or water component is absent or extremely limited in Hoppe's. I doubt a nail would ever rust in it. Rust will NEVER rust if it is submerged in oil as there is on water to oxidize the metal so using your faulty analogy oil would be the perfect thing to put on firearms.
Also, none of my firearms have rust on them either.
The oxygen or water component is absent or extremely limited in Hoppe's. I doubt a nail would ever rust in it. Rust will NEVER rust if it is submerged in oil as there is on water to oxidize the metal so using your faulty analogy oil would be the perfect thing to put on firearms.
Also, none of my firearms have rust on them either.
KBintheSLC
Member
How is it unmaintained? He said he keeps it cleaned and oiled. Is there some other special kind of "maintenance" you are referring to? As for a humid environment, he doesn't live in the jungles of Cambodia... He doesn't work on a fishing boat in the Gulf of Alaska. What do I want from it? Apparently, too much.
Come on guys, cool it with the gun safety badgering. You already did your good deed by pointing it out, now stop.
I would personally expect more of a firearm, especially one meant for purely defense, because its going to be carried in all kinds of environments. Hopefully Ruger handles it and gets you straightened away.
I would personally expect more of a firearm, especially one meant for purely defense, because its going to be carried in all kinds of environments. Hopefully Ruger handles it and gets you straightened away.
Ruger has had problems
with finishes on some of their other models in the past, especially the Vaquero. It might just be that this is your problem as well. I think it is worth a call to them. If it is their fault they will probably refinish the gun at no charge to you. They were very good about refinishing their Vaqueros when problems arose. My 2 LCP's have held up very well over the past year in very similar conditions, if not worse, to what yours has endured. One rides in my pocket daily and the other has resided in a foam lined case that gets transported to and from the car regularly. Since I live in Maine that means it can see temperature swings in the Winter from sub-zero to 75 degrees in a day. In the summer, it gets up to 90 degrees with extreme humidity and goes into an air conditioned car. I haven't swam in salt water with it yet but that is about the only thing that I can imagine that would be worse than the way I treat my guns.
with finishes on some of their other models in the past, especially the Vaquero. It might just be that this is your problem as well. I think it is worth a call to them. If it is their fault they will probably refinish the gun at no charge to you. They were very good about refinishing their Vaqueros when problems arose. My 2 LCP's have held up very well over the past year in very similar conditions, if not worse, to what yours has endured. One rides in my pocket daily and the other has resided in a foam lined case that gets transported to and from the car regularly. Since I live in Maine that means it can see temperature swings in the Winter from sub-zero to 75 degrees in a day. In the summer, it gets up to 90 degrees with extreme humidity and goes into an air conditioned car. I haven't swam in salt water with it yet but that is about the only thing that I can imagine that would be worse than the way I treat my guns.
I went back
and read all your posts. I see that you are returning the slide and barrel to Ruger, that is great. While I like the chrome finish on the LCP I would give your refinished gun a chance. A little clp on it every now and again and keep your eye on it. I really think that you probably just got a bad one. If it start to occur again, hit it with some oil and very fine steal wool and then sell it. I doubt you are gona have any more problems though.
and read all your posts. I see that you are returning the slide and barrel to Ruger, that is great. While I like the chrome finish on the LCP I would give your refinished gun a chance. A little clp on it every now and again and keep your eye on it. I really think that you probably just got a bad one. If it start to occur again, hit it with some oil and very fine steal wool and then sell it. I doubt you are gona have any more problems though.
A car is an incredibly harsh environment, wide tempereature swings, wide changes in humidity, and changes that can occur in a matter of minutes. If you are truly concerned about your pistol staying rust free don't leave it in the car.
-"But my glock/HK/sig/etc didn't rust!"---Yeah, well the Ruger did, so either do 1 of 3 things. 1.Take more time maintaining a coating of rust preventative. 2. Remove it from the car. 3. Buy an HK Glock or Sig.
And while your at it keep your finger off of trigger!
-"But my glock/HK/sig/etc didn't rust!"---Yeah, well the Ruger did, so either do 1 of 3 things. 1.Take more time maintaining a coating of rust preventative. 2. Remove it from the car. 3. Buy an HK Glock or Sig.
And while your at it keep your finger off of trigger!
jonboynumba1
Member
sometimes a gun can get contaminated with non-oil soluable salts...and all the oiling and wiping down won't remove the problem....clean the gun down with hoppes #9...then even rinse it off with hot water or spray it down with windex (water and amonia will disolve most of those non oil soluable sodium compounds) and then wipe it down....blow it off with a compressor ...oil it down good...blow out the excess again and you should be good to go....some people have body chemistry that just eats metal to...or have a buddy that does...used to have a bud I couldn't let play my guitars or I'd need new strings a few days later! It happens! Other possabillty is you have a leaking windshield and your truck is wicked humid bit it's only leaking enough to dampen around the leak on your headliner/trim area...my wifes chevy had this issue...though her XD did not rust...for the record-LOL
PS -a little breakfree on the gun and a little on some .0000 steel wool will lightly pull that rust right off that bbl and slide....rub lightly and have plenty of oil on the wool and the gun and it won't hurt the finish...anything pitted badly may not have finish left under it...but mostly it will just take that light surface rust right off!
Other possabillty is you have a leaking windshield and your truck is wicked humid bit it's only leaking enough to dampen around the leak on your headliner/trim area...my wifes chevy had this issue...though her XD did not rust...for the record-LOLPS -a little breakfree on the gun and a little on some .0000 steel wool will lightly pull that rust right off that bbl and slide....rub lightly and have plenty of oil on the wool and the gun and it won't hurt the finish...anything pitted badly may not have finish left under it...but mostly it will just take that light surface rust right off!
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