Checkering Steel - any tips?

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Oyeboten

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Thinking to checker a Backstrap and forestrap on a Revolver.


Are there Checkering Files for this? Or, what does one usually use?


I am after a 'Diamond' pattern, so, the lines will be 45 degrees to the long axis of the Grip...

I did this once a long time ago, using a regular Triangle Hand Saw Filing File, and I'd prefer this occasion to enjoy a better method if anyone knows of one.


Thanks!


Phil
l v
 
I got some checkering files from MidwayUSA. Brownells also has some. I am still looking for directions, but from what I see the checkering file lays out a pattern and then the lines are deepened with a 60 degree needle file. I laid out a pattern that intersects at 60 degrees to make diamonds. And after doing a couple of small pieces I can see why it costs so much for good checkering. It is very precise work and very labor intensive.
 
+1 on checkering files.

Be forewarned that checkering a curved surface like the front & rear of a revolver frame, is very difficult.

A pretty low percentage of first attempts will come out good at all.

rc
 
Bear in mind that S&W grip straps are normally serrated not checkered. Back when high end Colts were checked (Colt's term for it) S&W advertised that their guns did not have the "rasp-like action on the hand."
 
A pretty low percentage of first attempts will come out good at all.
Click to expand...
I know my first attempt (1911 front strap) had some mess ups. Works fine, but not exactly beautiful. :eek:

The back of the slide was much easier.
 
I started with some test pieces of round stock.Did the end for a custom cylinder release pad. Also doing some straight line tests and doing curve of the round stock. Going to move up to a 1911 frame casting next. They are under $25 at Sarcoinc.com
 
This guy has some pretty good instructions: http://www.blindhogg.com/index.html

It's important to NOT try your 'money' jobs as first attempts, in other words checkering takes practice.

Checkering files are available from Brownell's and now Midway - they come in a selection of lines per inch from 20 through 40 in general.

Bear in mind that the fewer lines per inch the deeper the cuts will be. This can be an important factor on some guns, notably late model Colt 1911's that have very thin front straps. I believe this is also a very important consideration if considering the checkering of a Browning High Power front strap. The thinness of the steel is the reason so few of the guns are checkered and so few people will agree to do the job. (I think Novak's has started offering checkering in the finer, more lines mode on BHP but I'm not positive about that.)

Checkering can be fun and can make for a nice skill to obtain but don't even start to think that it's easy or you're sure to ruin a job of it.

Is that enough tips?

No? OK........the cheap "checkering guides" you'll see are just clamps that you put on the gun to give you a guide for the checkering file. You can do the same thing with a square and a clamp, or you can easily devise your own way to make your files run straight across the workpiece.

The one checkering guide that DOES make checkering nearly foolproof is the one from Marvel Machining if you can figure out their four page instruction sheets.

Most gunsmiths are using milling machines to cut checkering. It's fast, precise, and doesn't give their pretty hands callouses :)
 
I just started checkering. Matter of fact, I finished my 2nd practice job just last night. Believe me when I tell ya', don't do the first job on anything that you plan on letting other people see. My first job was less than handsome, but the second one came out pretty good. I ordered a couple of defective frames from Caspian for $20.00 a piece to practice on. One of them was stainless. I'd reccomend specifying carbon if you order a practice piece. I really enjoyed learning to checker. I'm looking forward to checkering a real frontstrap now.
 
Hi everyone,


Wow, lots of good info, thank you!


Yes, I anticipate sore Hands, and patience, and...


This is a Revolver, so yes, forestrap and backstrap are both curved, and, have a radiused surface also.


My original thought, was for fairly large or coarse 'Diamonds' which one could rapidly Grate Parmazon Cheeze on over a plate of Spaghetti.


Could come in handy that way...


Lol...


Seriously though, was leaning toward 'Diamonds' about as those on say WWI 1911 Scales/Stocks...or a little coarser. Not the 'fine' sort one sees
sometimes on contemporarary high-end or custom 1911-type fore and back straps.

Good mention on those being 'thin'...



The Revolver Grip has ample section for relatively deep checkering...


Not for-sure decided on doing it, but brooding...


Thanks much!


I'll look into and likely Order a couple of the checkering Files.


I have thought of using the four-sided type of 1/2 Inch wide 'Thread Chaser' files, but, of course, for the inside curve of a Revolver forestrap, it would offer some problems.



Phil
 
Yes! Good tip about not working on stainless if it can be avoided, especially as a beginner. Stainless is harder and can ruin files. It's just generally a bitch to work on and makes most anything that much harder to do.

Oyeboten, I used to have a Colt revolver that had been diamond checkered up the backstrap in a way I think you're describing. It was done with the lines at about 75 degrees to the vertical strap resulting in a lattice-like appearance that culminated in a point at the top of the checkered panel/portion. I've seen some old custom Colt 1911's done this way too and it has a nice 'classic' look about it that suits an old gun much better than it would a modern race masterpiece with hi-tech cuts all over the gun in tribal patterns........or something.
 
I've been checkering - mostly 1911s - for about 35 years. Doing a front strap on a revolver would be tough. You couldn't use a standard checkering file; too wide. You'd need one that cuts only two lines at a time. Even then, cutting at an angle is something I wouldn't even attempt. Too hard to keep the lines straight. Too easy to screw up. I'm sure it could be done. Just not by me!!

As a beginner, you'll want to have some way of maintaining the correct angle at all times. I only do regular 90 degree checkering, so a pair of ruled file cards on each side of the work does the trick. DON'T try to checker by eye.

My tips:
Use a solid padded vice with your angle-maintaining device flat and totally stable.
Install a good handle on your file which you'll hold with your strong hand.
Hold the other end with your weak hand.
Have lots of light.
Low-power reading glasses are a big help.
Get right over the work and don't move your head.
Before you get started, practice so you learn to move the file STRAIGHT!!
Establish all your lines first before you cut to full depth.
Figure out what kind of a border you're going to use BEFORE you get started.

Two things about checkering: If you lose your concentration for just a second, you'll screw up. If you screw up, you can't put the metal back.
 
Hi John,




Thank you for those good mentions..!


If I do it, there'll be no 'boarder', merely full Checkering covering entirely the width of the Strap, ending in the open at the upper area of the Backstrap, and, ending similarly if lower, on the forestrap...and the Checkering running diagonally, at I dunno, at 55 or 60 or 72 degrees or something.


Indeed yes, a definite, tidy layout, using a Dye to cover the area completely, ( wide 'Sharpie' in my case ) with fine scratches for the indice-line-schedule...and, good light, and a comfortable File Handle, and a secure, Sheet Copper or Leather padded Jaw Bench Vice, would be good to do..!


I'm confident a plain Nickolson or Disston triangular Hand Saw File would work well, if being maybe shallower than one might prefer for the angle of the individual Checkering points to rise out of...but have wondered about if multi-row specialist Files might exist...though yeah, the inside curve of a Revolver forestrap, adds a consideration for sure.


I'll look into the proper 'Checkering Files'...and be thinking..!



Phil
 
I'm confident a plain Nickolson or Disston triangular Hand Saw File would work well....
Click to expand...

Nope. You need a checkering file. It limits the depth of cut. When it bottoms out, you know the line(s) is cut to the same depth as all the others. Trying to do the same thing by hand with a standard file is a path to disaster.

Go to the Browning site referenced above.
The Ontarget site looks good, too.
 
Called Brownells...have a 20 pt Checkering File on it's way...


Thanks...


Phil
l v
 
Most frames and receivers are soft enough to cut with a checkering file, but it is a good idea to try a cut in an inconspicuous area. If the material has been hardened or case hardened, trying to checker it can mar the finish it without producing any pattern, just scratches.

Jim
 
Hi Jim,



As for 'Hard' or Case Hardened Steel, this would definitely seem to be the case with my S & W Model 10-6 ! - as for the Hammer, and, the Trigger.


Unless I were to anneal, then Checker, then re-Harden, they are far too hard for any conventional File to bite.


Possibly, good quality Diamond Needle Files could offer some hope.


The Frame, on the Grip area, is surprisingly hard also, far as my opinion goes, but cuts well with a good Hacksaw Blade or File.


I have a little Thread under the Revolver section, titled "My S & W Model 10 project", showing the Candidate in-progress, and, among other attentions, I had originally envisioned to possibly Checker the fore and back Straps on it.


I might elect instead, to only Checker the forestrap, and, to make a pair of Stocks which actually come back farther than the upper backstrap area, which would cover the Backstrap mostly, and, then, there'd be little point in checkering it..so, if I do that, I'd Checker the otherwise smooth Stocks on their rear vertical center area...about as 'if' it were a Checkered Backstrap in function.



Phil
l v
 
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