Checklist for Used Marlin 1894 SS 44

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wkumatt

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I'm thinking of trading off an extra CZ SP-01 Tactical pistol to a Marlin 1894 SS in 44mag. I've owned a couple of the 30-30 Marlin/Glenfield rifles for years with no issues. I've never owned a lever gun of a caliber larger than that.

My question for you all is what do I need to look out for in used examples of these? Are there generational differences that add or detract value (i.e. pre 64 Win)? Are there red flags that will indicate hard use or abuse to watch for?

Other than a general dry fire, work the action, feel the trigger type once over are there other manipulations I should take to check it over?

Thanks in advance for the input. If this has been gone over before please give me a link, I looked but didn't see a thread with the above answers.
 
I have a 1894P model, 16.25" barrel, it is my first experience with a .44mag in a lever. There can be some issues in feeding as flat nose or even HP may hang up. It takes a sharp stroke to chamber a round with out the possibility of a hang up. I have had no problems with mine other than recoil at the bench with factory ammo. I now shoot .44sp reloads, the rifle is a truck gun and a back up hog rifle.
Jim
 
Other than a general dry fire,
Not good for Marlins, or any other lever-action I know of to dry-fire them.
Broken firing pins can result, either the front one, or the rear one.

If the over-all gun looks abused?
Beware.

If it doesn't, and seems to function right compared to your 30-30 Marlin/Glenfield's, and the muzzle doesn't look like someone cleaned it with a rat-tail file?

It should be good to go.

rc
 
If you can make some dummy rounds up to makes sure it cycles correctly, if is new (brand new) I would defiantly check and make sure it cycles. Marlin was bought out by Remington and has been going through some growing pains, sothere is kinda the pre/post 64(from Winchester going on).
New rifles with a REM, and not a JM barrel stamp our a serial number starting with MRxxxxxxx(x's being numbers) are Remington produced. They have gotten a lot better in the last 4 months or so, but I would check carefully. Action, sights (a rash of them were canted to one side), wood to metal fit, trigger(just finish on wood, and defiantly cycle some rounds.
But that's the big stuff to look at when buying used anyhow, don't forget to check the rifling, and crown
 
if it's a new one with a REP in an oval on the right side of the barrel by the receiver be on the lookout for overall shoddy workmanship: crossthreaded screws, crooked barrels, metal to metal or wood to metal gaps. (REP is from when remington bought marlin and quality tanked)

But if is looks good, but crown isn't dinged and the bore is clean almost any other issue can be worked out. cycling can be smoothed, the trigger lightened, feeding issues resolved all with a little sandpaper. You can achieve a gun with a 3lb trigger and an action that can be cycled easily with a pinky with just a little effort.
 
Thanks for the input fellows, you've helped me make up my mind to nix the trade. It is a JM rifle for the record but 44 mag is a little to high for a non-reloader and I read a few too many tales if difficulty with ftf in these in 44. I'm going to hold out for a .357.

Thanks again, usual stellar performance from THR members.

Sent from my PB99400 using Tapatalk 2
 
I liked the 357 better than the 44mag. if you want a JM stainless though, you're pretty much stuck with 44.
 
RE: Marlin 357

I have a late 70s .357 1894c, if you go this route you won't regret it, especially if you find a much babied older one like I did.
 
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