Clean up Kimber 1911 Barrel or replace?

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Esoteria

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My Eclipse Custom II has some corrosion on the barrel. This came from storage in a high humidity environment that I did not adequately prepare for.

Now I want to see if I can clean it up. Related, I'm looking into adding a mag well, extended slide release, and compensator. The comp means that if this barrel is destined to be ugly, I could replace it with a threaded one.

2zexpg8.jpg

What can I do to clean it? Is it safe to go the steel wool route, or will that ruin the fit (especially near the bushing)?

If I were to get a threaded barrel, can I expect similar (good to very good) accuracy from a higher-end "drop-in" barrel? I don't think I'm up for true fitting....
 
You can use some fine sandpaper or emery 400 to 600 grit. Put the barrel in a vise and use the old shoeshine method to polish the corrosion off. Some fine scotchbrite will also do the trick. Make sure to polish in the direction of the grain (perpendicular to the barrel). After you are finished, wipe off the dust and apply a coat of oil. When you are polishing around the locking lug area of the barrel, make sure to keep the sandpaper flat so you don't round off the 90 degree edges.
 
I can't see any corrosion in your photo.

But regardless of what I can't see in the photo.

0000 Super-Fine steel wool & oil will not change fit or finish but will completely remove rust just getting started.

You could also use Semichrome or Fliitz metal polish.
Or mag wheel polish.

I won't comment on changing barrels and changing accuracy.

Because that depends on how your current barrel fits, and how the new barrel is fitted.

And I can't predict that.

rc
 
I would use bronze wool so you doing have to worry about the fine particles getting left behind to rust. Same as 0000 steel wool just made from bronze. Use this to remove the tarnish from the barrel and use oil for clean up. Should be good as new.

This is assuming the rifling and internals of the barrel are in good shape.
 
How is steel particles from steel wool left behind on a steel barrel going it lead to rust???

If you had ever used 0000 Super-Fine steel wool in Gunsmithing, you would know it doesn't 'leave behind' steel particles.

It is commonly used by firearms re-finishers to card bluing salts red rust film off mirror polished firearms fresh out of the hot bath bluing tank.

On the other hand, bronze wool leaves behind copper burnishing you can't get off without using copper bore solvent to remove it!

I wish this internet myth would just go away and stop being repeated!

rc
 
I wish you weren't so abrasive. LOL In the end most people are not that careful when they clean up from their fluff and buff. Most people are not expert refinishers of firearms.

I have used bronze wool for similar tasks and have never had to use copper solvent. YMMV

To the OP whatever you choose to clean the barrel with do not throw the baby out with the bath water. Chances are one way or another you can clean up that barrel.
 
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Thanks guys. I don't have a lot of pitting or anything (and the picture sucks, so I guess it's hard to see what I do have) so I'm guessing the emery cloth or 0000 steel wool will do the trick. I'll give it a go.

As you say, as long as I can recover the finish, no sense in replacing the barrel. What research I've done indicates that a "traditional" barrel-mounted compensator isn't so much better than a bushing comp that it justifies the expense, at least for a "shoot for fun" guy like me.
 
It's just going to happen again.

Leave it be and enjoy the patina. Kimber barrels just turn brown, I'll live with it. Sadly mine developed a pit in just 1 month of CCW. :(
 
I went ahead and applied a wire wheel that I'd forgotten I had until I read ArchAngel's post. I avoided spending much time on the engagement surfaces like the lugs and near the muzzle because I didn't want to remove too much material.

Anyway it came out great! I realized once I put the barrel back on the gun that it had never actually been shiny. I was sent back in time to getting the gun (my first handgun) in 2008. I was...
(1) not being strong enough to rack the slide due to the excess oil and poor form (trying to do the thumb-and-forefinger grip)
(2) Pretty disappointed to see my fancy, shiny gun had dark corrosion on the barrel hood

I probably should've just sent it back then, because it's taken me almost 8 years to realize I could fix it.

Anyway, thanks!

Oh, and to the person who asked, the bore is in great shape. Even when I screwed up and left it in high humidity with minimal oil/grease, I did at least know to have the bore well oiled.

@Zerodefect
Fair point. I had considered that and realized I couldn't constantly put it "under the wheel," but I guess we'll see how long I can keep it shiny. Unfortunately the way it looked before wasn't a consistent patina, so it really did look pretty ugly. =/
 
Esoteria, if you clean the gun after range trips and wipe the barrel down with a good gun oil like RemOil it will not turn on you. I'm glad the wire wheel worked. I did the same on a barrel of a used gun I bought and it came out better than new.
 
I don't know what it is about Kimber barrels.... I have a Kimber in .38 Super that I've carried off and on since 2007 and there is not one spot of rust anywhere on it. I don't do anything special to care for it either.
 
Remove you grips I did on my Eclipse and found more rust than a 57 Ford that been in a farmers field since 1958. I been happy with a little rust on the barrel.
 
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