busterbrown
Member
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2005
- Messages
- 100
I have a cleaning rod, of course, but what is the proper way & caliber for the chamber? rifle is a a standard 223. is there a "chamber swab'?
cleaning ar 15 chamber
- Thread starter busterbrown
- Start date
- Status
ftierson
Member.
There is an issue chamber cleaning brush that can be found almost anywhere...
It cleans the chamber and the locking lugs recess area...
Forrest
It cleans the chamber and the locking lugs recess area...
Forrest
Bartholomew Roberts
Member
You also need to use a non-rotating cleaning rod when using the chamber brush. Q-tips can also be handy to get sludge back behind the lugs; but you can get it functionally clean with just the chamber brush and a cloth.
ftierson
Member.
I forgot to mention that toothbrushes are always helpful, too. Even the military figured that out 
...
Forrest
...Forrest
Gary G23
Member
rero360
Member
dental picks too, they work great, time consuming but if you want your chamber to be spotless, they'll help you a lot.
Don't Tread On Me
Member
I just use a 30cal brush and scrub around in circles. Then, to get the neck area, I twist the brush in and it gets that part.
To mop it out, I use a .45cal mop. Tight fit, but works fine. For the lugs, I just use a nylon brush / toothbrush. This is when I do minor cleaning after short-sessions. I use brake cleaner for serious cleaning after longer sessions.
The key is to get the crud out before having to brush. Invest in BRAKE CLEANER. If you have optics, you might want to protect them or buy a synthetic-safe cleaner. My optics are on quick-detach, so I take them off. Wal-Mart sells brake cleaner for $3 a can. Well worth it. Just blast away with full-power. Wear EYE protection or it will fly back at you, especially when getting the lug area.
I also blast the bolt and carrier with brake cleaner. After I am done, I check for any hardened crud, and that's when I go to the brush - if needed. Then I spray CLP all over it and over any dry areas that should be lubed. There's almost always an excess of oil because my aerosol can of CLP dispenses way too much. I take my aircompressor and blast off any excess. This is good, because it spreads the oil thinly and evenly over the entire surface of that which I am trying to lube. It also forces the oil into every little space. My entire bolt, carrier and interior of upper is lightly coated by CLP. No drips, no dry areas. Just right. It has the perfect film of lube and the "wet" look.
Whole process takes 15 minutes tops. I'd say, the brake cleaner cleaning takes 2 minutes. Any brushing/mopping of tough crud, probably 5-7 minutes. Rest of time is spent on oiling and compressed air.
Cleaning the bore is seperate. I usually use a copper cutter with a rod/brush and scrub away. I have a patch-worm and I pull patches out till clean. This takes about 10-15 minutes.
Beyond that, the AR is clean. Nothing else really.
To mop it out, I use a .45cal mop. Tight fit, but works fine. For the lugs, I just use a nylon brush / toothbrush. This is when I do minor cleaning after short-sessions. I use brake cleaner for serious cleaning after longer sessions.
The key is to get the crud out before having to brush. Invest in BRAKE CLEANER. If you have optics, you might want to protect them or buy a synthetic-safe cleaner. My optics are on quick-detach, so I take them off. Wal-Mart sells brake cleaner for $3 a can. Well worth it. Just blast away with full-power. Wear EYE protection or it will fly back at you, especially when getting the lug area.
I also blast the bolt and carrier with brake cleaner. After I am done, I check for any hardened crud, and that's when I go to the brush - if needed. Then I spray CLP all over it and over any dry areas that should be lubed. There's almost always an excess of oil because my aerosol can of CLP dispenses way too much. I take my aircompressor and blast off any excess. This is good, because it spreads the oil thinly and evenly over the entire surface of that which I am trying to lube. It also forces the oil into every little space. My entire bolt, carrier and interior of upper is lightly coated by CLP. No drips, no dry areas. Just right. It has the perfect film of lube and the "wet" look.
Whole process takes 15 minutes tops. I'd say, the brake cleaner cleaning takes 2 minutes. Any brushing/mopping of tough crud, probably 5-7 minutes. Rest of time is spent on oiling and compressed air.
Cleaning the bore is seperate. I usually use a copper cutter with a rod/brush and scrub away. I have a patch-worm and I pull patches out till clean. This takes about 10-15 minutes.
Beyond that, the AR is clean. Nothing else really.
I have been using nylon M16 style chamber cleaning brushes from Brownells for a while now and love them.
Since they are nylon, and not bronze, I can use really agressive copper removing type solvents and not wonder whether I am cleaning metal fouling from the chamber or maybe it is just the bronze brush dissolving.
The nylon is also flexible like a toothbrush and really gets into the nooks and crannies much better than a stiffer bronze brush.
Try them I think you will like them too.
Since they are nylon, and not bronze, I can use really agressive copper removing type solvents and not wonder whether I am cleaning metal fouling from the chamber or maybe it is just the bronze brush dissolving.
The nylon is also flexible like a toothbrush and really gets into the nooks and crannies much better than a stiffer bronze brush.
Try them I think you will like them too.
Don't Tread On Me
Member
Thanks for the suggestion. I didn't even know they existed. I thought the chamber brushes were just the military type bronze.
pcf
Member
The only thing to watch out for with copper solvents is that it'll eat away the chrome lining Okay, it won't but I like writing that......
Ammonia will eventually discolor anodizing if you don't wipe it off when you're done.
To clean out the lug recess after the chamber brush, I use 3/4"x3" pieces of felt (sheets are 20 cents at Michaels), fold it in half and hold it in the middle with forceps, and use that to wipe out the fouling. Easier than Q-tips.
Okay, it won't but I like writing that......Ammonia will eventually discolor anodizing if you don't wipe it off when you're done.
To clean out the lug recess after the chamber brush, I use 3/4"x3" pieces of felt (sheets are 20 cents at Michaels), fold it in half and hold it in the middle with forceps, and use that to wipe out the fouling. Easier than Q-tips.
mrmeval
Member
Pipe cleaners if you need to touch the gas system. Do not use cleaner in the gas system.
Ed's Red will eat carbon off better than expensive cleaners it is very effective on the bolt and bold carrier. You mix it yourself cheap. http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=184991
Ed's Red will eat carbon off better than expensive cleaners it is very effective on the bolt and bold carrier. You mix it yourself cheap. http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=184991
busterbrown said:
Skipper
Member
Chamber cleaning:
1. Short, non-rotating rod. (I like the Dewey)
2. Regular AR chamber brush.
3. Chamber-Maid lug recess swabs.
These along with appropriate solvent, will make quick and easy work of what used to be a rather tedious job.
SKIP
1. Short, non-rotating rod. (I like the Dewey)
2. Regular AR chamber brush.
3. Chamber-Maid lug recess swabs.
These along with appropriate solvent, will make quick and easy work of what used to be a rather tedious job.
SKIP
- Status
Similar threads
