Cleaning around the forcing cone?

[rock jock]

Any ideas for cleaning the built up carbon around the forcing cone, especially between the forcing cone and the top strap? How about the front face of the cylinder? That stuff is hard to get off.

Thanks.

 

[G. Glock]

If a toothbrush and your favorite cleaning solvent won't do it, I'm not sure what to tell you. Let it soak a good while and then brush it.

I use Ballistol with all my guns, and my guns have never been in better shape.

 

[BLiTzNicK]

If you've got a stainless revolver, a piece of lead-away cloth works wonders. It'll take the finish off from a blued revolver though.

 

[NJ3]

How about on a nickel revolver?

 

[Ledbetter]

Lead away cloths work great on Nickel gut NOT on blued steel. A strip of Lead away cloth works just like dental floss for cleaning this area.

However, I have heard some say that the buildup of carbon under the front strap actually protects the metal from the hot gasses produced upon ignition of the powder. And that kind of makes sense.

 

[rock jock]

Ledbetter, you're probably right. And of course, this begs the question, "why would I want to clean the forcing cone that much?" There is certainly no practical reason for it. I guess I am just being anal about aesthetics.

 

[VictorLouis]

FLITZ

and a toothbrush.

 

[dfariswheel]

Being a cleanness nut, I built a brass scraper, shaped like a small screwdriver blade. I use this to remove lead deposits from the rear barrel area.

I also use solvent and a brass brush.

 

[Standing Wolf]

Old Lewis lead remover screens, folded over two or three times, work well, as do narrow brass-bristled brushes.

 

[az_ccw]

Anybody try Automotive chrome polish and a toothbrush?? I hear this works great on carbon deposits . . . at least on a SS revolver.

 

[VictorLouis]

See my earlier post

Chrome polish is much too abrasive.

 

[Sprout]

Uh oh! I bought a bottle of Turtle Wax ChromePolish because somebody on TFl reccommended it for cleaning the cylinder face. It works like a charm with those green plasitc scouring pads.

Am I eroding my gun with the polish and/or the green pads? Are lead-away cloths the real solution?

Thanks for the help, sorry if I am hijacking the thread.

 

[dfariswheel]

You will quickly damage the chamber throats with the green pads.
The pads are OK to touch up the grained finish on stainless guns and remove scratches in the finish, but they are too abrasive to do any cleaning.

To clean crud off ther cylinder face, buy a Lead Removal Cloth. Use these on stainless guns, but NEVER on a blued gun. They will strip the bluing right off.

 

[Sprout]

Thanks VictorLouis and dfariswheel. Guess I'm off to buy some lead remover cloths.

Thanks

 

[jrpeterman]

Another fan of Flitz to clean the face of a cylinder. Have used on both blue and stainless. Doesn't seem to wear any bluing. Have used Peek also. Same type of paste in a tube a Flitz. I think Flitz works better of the two in my opinion.

 

[Freedom in theSkies]

To get at the crud between the forcing cone and top strap, I have used a fine dental pick, albeit very carefully!

 

[44Caliber]

forcing cone

I use a Lewis brass screen with a sharpened 3/8 inch wooden dowel (chisel) and the carbon comes off with ease.
44 Caliber

 

[smooth operator]

I use some gun oil in a spray can to protect a blued revolver from rus-can't remember the name off hand- it makes the gun a whole lot easier to clean. The lead pwder etc. wipes right off.
Jerry

 

[mikey357]

...Hoppe's #9 with a brass "toothbrush"...Leadaway cloth strips...Flitz on a strip of cleaning patch...NOTE: Flitz--and the Leadaway cloth--WILL eventually REMOVE bluing from blued guns...I've got a well-worn 586 that shows this effect!!!...FWIW....mikey357

 

[Sisco]

I always use a stiff brush, Hoppes & if necessary a dental pick.

 

[MR.G]

I use break free on a brass toothbrush. A dental pick is good for the finishing touches