Cleaning Question

[Rinehartdv]

I have a BP repro. revolver that takes the #10 percussion caps. I bought a nipple wrench but it is for rifles and revovers that take the #11 caps. All I have been able to find so far are wrenches that fit the #11. Question is: Do I have to remove the nipples for cleaning after firing? Are there any modern tools that would do the job of nipple removal? Any help here would be greatly appreciated. I am in the Dallas, Texas area. Believe it or not I'm having no luck whatsoever in finding a nipple wrench for #10 nipples (I guess it would of been alot easier about 150 years ago). Any recommendations for a well supplied store in this area that y'all have dealt with before? Thank's, Ray

 

[oneshooter]

I don't know of any tool that can replace a revolver nipple wrench. They are available from Dixie Gun Works from $7 to $20 each. Catalog is only $5, worth 10X the asking. See link below.

http://www.dixiegunworks.com/default.php?cPath=22_100_356


Oneshooter
Livin in Texas

PS If you don't remove the nipples and clean them / grease the threads you will probable never be able to in a very short time.

 

[Chawbaccer]

I musta gone ten years on my first revolver and didn't have a wrench, when I got around to making one they came right out. Put a drop of penetrating iol on after its all dried out.

 

[Rinehartdv]

Thank's

Thank's for the help folk's, I sure appreciate it. Ray

 

[Cap n Ball]

There are several different kinds of wrenches. I like the ones with a brass screw off cap in the top of the shank with a nipple pick. Instead of oil on the threads I use graphite. If you do use oil make sure its not a petroleum based oil. Petro oils and black powder will cause fouling to be much worse than if you use something like a fine grade olive oil or bore butter. Always dry fire before loading to burn off any such oils in the cylinder and bore.

Have fun!

 

[Across The Pond]

A tip I learned for the nipples is to remove them, clean thoroughly, and wrap a little PTFE tape round the thread before carefully reinstalling them. This can make the thread tricky to start straight - take care not to cross-thread them.

The PTFE means that the likelyhood of corrosion on the threads is reduced. I only take mine out once or twice a year, max.

For general cleaning now I shoot 777, I only use tap water to get the crud off, then WD40/GT85 to displace moisture and lightly lube. Maybe pass a bronze brush through the barrel once or twice to make sure any more solid deposits are removed.

Pyrodex and blackpowder contain sulphur and make cleaning harder. Soap and hot water seem best.....

Now, I heard from a friend that he sneaks his cap'n'ball revo into the dishwasher when his missus isn't looking - make sure the wood grips are off, and then enjoy the shine!

 

[Gatofeo]

Placing a STAINLESS STEEL cap and ball revolver in the dishwasher is not unheard of. In fact, about 1975 I read a review of one of the first stainless steel Ruger Old Army revolvers and the author did just that.
He said it worked quite well.
BUT placing a blue steel cap and ball revolver in the dishwasher is asking for a rusted hulk, I would think.
I've never done it to my blued revolvers and never plan to. I know that I've pulled out carbon steel kitchen knives with traces of rust on them. I can't imagine what would happen to a revolver, with all those nooks and crannies to trap moisture and then rust.
I don't suggest placing any blued firearm or part in the dishwasher.
Incidentally, some people have speculated that traces of lead in the bore and chambers would be displaced in the dishwasher, then the lead replaced onto eating items. The speculation is that this would lead to lead poisoning.
From what little I've read over the years, there is no danger from this. The lead tends to stay in the barrel or chambers through the cycles, since it's rather tenacious. The softer, looser fouling is blasted loose.
What few lead particles were loosened would be flushed down the drain during the wash or rinse cycle, I've read.
Wish I could recall where I read that. It was in a message board sometime in the last four or five years. The authors (I think there were three separate posts) seemed to be professionals (chemists, environmentalists, etc.) that knew their stuff.
Dang ... I hate replying without being able to cite a source. Guess it's the former journalist in me!

 

[Rinehartdv]

Dishwasher

A tip I learned for the nipples is to remove them, clean thoroughly, and wrap a little PTFE tape round the thread before carefully reinstalling them. This can make the thread tricky to start straight - take care not to cross-thread them.

The PTFE means that the likelyhood of corrosion on the threads is reduced. I only take mine out once or twice a year, max.

For general cleaning now I shoot 777, I only use tap water to get the crud off, then WD40/GT85 to displace moisture and lightly lube. Maybe pass a bronze brush through the barrel once or twice to make sure any more solid deposits are removed.

Pyrodex and blackpowder contain sulphur and make cleaning harder. Soap and hot water seem best.....

Now, I heard from a friend that he sneaks his cap'n'ball revo into the dishwasher when his missus isn't looking - make sure the wood grips are off, and then enjoy the shine!

I don't know why I did'nt think about using my dishwasher. It's been reported that WD40 can "Deaden" primers/powder in cartridge firearms. There have been a couple of posts here from folk's using WD40 in their BP firearms, apparently without ill effect. It sure would be easier than smearing Crisco over everything. I thought maybe spraying everything down with brake parts cleaner and then coating with WD40 would simplify the process. I bought a pound of Pyrodex P to use in my Pietta. Do you think it will react favorably with the WD40? Thank's for your help, Ray

 

[Across The Pond]

Well.. I have used WD40 on all my guns, including the muzzleloaders. I always fire a cap on each nipple before shooting, in order to burn any off that is left in the nipple or chamber. Until really recently, I have only used Pyrodex and have never experienced any problem attributable to the WD40.

As for the dishwasher, I would never risk the great personal harm that Mrs ATP would cause me! And yes, the guy who suggested it to me had a stainless Old Army.

I just clean them with soap and water, then dry and soak with WD, mostly in order to displace any water. It does however leave a thin oily residue, keeping demon rust at bay.

 

[Rinehartdv]

Cleaning Plan

First, Thank's ATP. Im going to to go with this cleaning plan:
Dis-assemble and spray down with brake parts cleaner.
Clean bore with Lead-Free cloth.
Spray all surfaces with a coat of WD40.
Thank's for all your help folk's. I'll let you know how it turns out. Ray

 

[Gatofeo]

The fouling from black powder and its substitutes, as far as I know, are water-soluble, not oil-soluble. I'm not so sure that brake cleaner will work.
I still prefer soapy water for cleaning. I've tried a variety of things over the years and that still works the best for me.