Cleanse water with household tools.

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I have an e-mail in to the National Park Service about this.
We shall see what they have to say.

If possible, I'd opt for boiling.
NPS says that a roiling boil for one minute at sea level is all that is required.
They say you should also add 1 minute for every 1000 ft increase in elevation.

-edit-
http://www.nps.gov/public_health/inter/info/factsheets/fs_bc.htm
Read the short section on potable water. It describes what procedures are used to make water potable.
 
"Could one mix a small quantity of grain alcohol into water to kill the little nasties? Not enough to cause dehydration or intoxication, but maybe an ounce per gallon."

I think that alcohol evaporates water, so it wouldn't work in that respect either.

About boiling water, there's a show on tv called 'Survivor Man' or something like that, and in the forest he filled his hat with water, then took hot rocks from the fire and put them into his hat to bring it to a boil. Very creative. It was one of those greasy canvas slouch hats.
 
The amount of alcohol I'm looking at is pretty small. Any water evaporation would be minimal before I got the cap back on the container.

Like I said, I've got an e-mail into the Natl. Park Service regarding this. We shall see what they say.
 
This chlorine dioxide treatment is awesome....for giardia and crypto both...

Aqua-Mira-220.jpg
 
Some more info

the link below takes you to the REI water treatment page with info on the various water filters. On the right hand side bar is some additional information and when you go to the side bar there is another link that helps explain why and how to treat water.

They call for 2 drops of bleach per quart. Also, in this day and age bleach in many cases is no longer just bleach. You don't want soaps or fragrances in your bleach.

http://www.rei.com/category/4500461.htm?vcat=REI_SSHP_CAMPING_TOC
 
This is an important topic with disasterous consequences if the incorrect methods are employed so I'm going to do something that I don't often do and that's say, "This is dangerously wrong", for some things that have been suggested or asked about. Please don't take it personally since we're all trying to find methods to improvise or prelocate water treatment capabilities.

Alcohol is useless for sterilizing water. It does not cause water to evaporate, but the addition of water will destroy alcohol's topical antiseptic properties.

While essential for an water treatment approach in an urban/industrial setting Granular Activated Charcoal will not remove all the toxic materials that could reasonably be expected to be in NOLA flood water. It will not remove metals. It works well for volatile organics, but the charcoal will only absorb a finite amount of the volatile contaminants. If there is enough charcoal it will absorb enough contaminant to make the water potable. If there is too much contaminant the charcoal will absorb what it can and reduce the contaminant concentration by only that amount allowing the remainder through to your tea pot. If used over and over again the charcoal will eventually become exhausted. Should contaminant levels be high it will happen sooner than later.

Distilation is good if you don't have chemically contaminated water, but it will not remove all chemical contaminants either. Volatile chemicals will evaporate before/with the water and be collected in your condenser. If you were very lucky and very knowledgable you could fractionally distil your contaminated water and drive off much of the volatile chemical fraction and then condense the water.

Agitation and multiple pours through cloth filters can reduce the volatile fraction in contaminated water, but serial AC filtration or distilation is about the only way that you can be sure to remove solvents, pesticides, and gasoline components if you have urban/industrial surface water.

As a survival technique you could locate a gas station groundwater treatment unit that uses GAC canisters and rob them from the unit. As long as the GAC was relatively fresh you could pour settled water through it and have a large volume of GAC to absorb contaminants.

The katadyn tablets are expensive, but much better than any portable chemical water treatment for biologicals out there. Mechanical micro filters certified against crypto and giardia are also good. Anything that doesn't certify against bacteria, crypto and giardia is putting yourself at risk.
 
When I was a kid, I took a dare while camping with some friends over drinking water from a local river. I boiled it in an empty soda can for about 10 minutes and drank it. It tasted awful from all of the sediments and tannins, but I didn't get sick. I wouldn't want to have to boil water in an emergency situation.

If you wanted to remove the sediments and color from water to be purified, you could probably set up a crude filter using a bucket with small holes punctured in the bottom of it, lined with coffee filters, with 3 inches or so of finely crushed charcoal and a bed of sand on top of it. You would want another coffee filter or pece of paper set above the filter bed to keep it ffrom being upset when water is poured in. Collect the water by letting it perc through into another bucket, then treat it with comonly found unscented bleach.
 
Anything that doesn't certify against bacteria, crypto and giardia is putting yourself at risk.

Yes. You want a sytem that is certified EPA rated 99.9%. This helps for bacteria, cysts, and viruses. Not for chemical contamination, which is a huge issue. Your best bet is to try to pick a source you feel is not chemically contaminated. NO's situation is a bad one in the urban areas since I am sure there are a lot of toxins around.

hso - you know of any source for purchasing a large GAC system for something like this as a 3rd level post prefilter,microfilter,sterlization step? I think I read somewhere of someone having a techinque for making it yourself... not sure though.
 
I've built my own GAC filters in the past and used them.

You can get GAC at many pharmacies or chemical supply houses or medical supply. Failing that, order it.

I'd operate in 1 or 5 gal containers. Settle water in a clean plastic bucket/jug. Cloth or sandpack/diatomaceous earth filter it in a second. GAC it in a third. You should use enough GAC to fill the container at least 1/2 full and have more clean sand on top of the GAC and a clean cloth seperating them. You also need a clean cloth in the bottom of the bucket so that the GAC doesn't spill out the SMALL (~2mm) hole you've punched for the outlet. Be patient and allow the water to filter slowly so that you have sufficient contact time with the GAC.

If you want to get fancy and don't want to try to handle the heavy containers of water/filters, use poly fittings from the hardware store and install them in the bucket/pail/water jug used for each stage and set the thing up so it gravity feeds to the next unit. You could just have them overhang the counter to flow into the container on the table which flows into the one sitting on something on the floor, but working with the awl on your SAK and just 3 sets of fittings you can 'pipe" the water from one stage to the next.

Look at this site for a lot of small and medium scale GAC filters and housings.http://www.waterfiltersonline.com/

You can use floculating agents like alum or ag lime to help "force" settling of particulates in the water then strain and filter it. This changes the pH and causes fine particulates to clump and settle faster and filter easier which will make GAC filtering easier and treatment for biological contaminants more effective.
 
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Bought a good water-filter, filters everything except viruses, and it came with a water-bag and some liquid virus-killer for that. Then I read the free brochure I picked up at the store.

Sorry, I admire those with water-filters, but I'm returning this one. Splitting a dish-washer with my room-mate instead. I have chlorine and I have bottles with a spout for small drops. I think those will be just fine. I even know a trick for bottles - cove the opening with a plastic bag or saran wrap, then screw the lid/spout on. This way they won't leak until you want to use them.

BTW I'm exchanging the expensive filter for a cheap one built into a water-bottle, it's still good for the protozoas.
 
While awaiting a response from the National Park Service, another possibility entered my mind.
One could simply build a still to distill larger amounts of water.

Distilling the water will most certainlly kill most anything living in it. Filter the nastiest junk you can through a cloth of some sort to remove larger particles (twigs, rocks, bugs, etc) The tighter the weave, the more it removes obviously. Pantyhose would probably work well although you risk ripping them easily...maybe slip one leg inside the other.

After filtering, dump it in your still, apply heat and come back every so often to check on it.
Let your clean water cool, bottle and store for future use. Airtight containers are a good idea and of course, add a few drops of bleach (8 per gallon) to kill any nasties that my slip in and try to grow.
 
Get a Berkey

http://www.berkeyfilters.com/

For water heavily saturated with sediment and particulates you can run the water through several coffee drip filters as a first stage. Actually you can wrap and secure coffee drip filters around the intakes of any pump type filter too; even if the water isn't heavily saturated with muck it will prolong the life of your filter and reduce cleaning.

For mobility I like the Katadyn pocket filter; and the Micro filter version with charcoal elements will filter out chemicals before running it through the Pocket if chemical contamination is suspected. The only thing they won't do is stop waterborne viruses. In addition to boiling or iodine, potassium permanganate will.

Another handy item is the Survival Straw type filters. Very compact and effective and can be used literally on the move. Again, a drip coffee filter or two will prolong the useful life of these items.

http://giardiaclub.com/survival-water-filter-straw/index.php

Surf google.com for best prices.
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http://ussliberty.org
http://ssunitedstates.org
 
I once heard that if you filter your water after you have added chlorine or iodine tablets it removes the taste. I have drunk bad water once on a bushwalk - chemical rather than biological contamination - spent about 20 hours throwing up and unable to move. Something to avoid.
 
Oz, good point.

The problem with distillation is that it works great for critters (considering that you're burning fuel to boil the water which is what you needed to do in the first place to kill the critters) and heavy metals (since they don't boil into the steam), but volatile and semivolatile organics from industrial contamination just boil off before and with the water and condense on your condenser and collect in your drinking water.

If you can't carry out a fractional distillation then you should run the distilled water through a GAC filter to get those unpleasant toxics before your do.
 
Don't forget the bleach, 1 or 2 drops in a gallon of water let it sit for a bit and bingo no more germs. Qucik, cheap, effective, and very avilable, BTY not the lemmon sented stuff either.
 
activated charcoal.




one other is a body of water with a suspended plastic tarp acting as a solar still. done right i have seen 1/2 liter per hour of sunlight. over water or wet ground. with bright sun
 
"Could one mix a small quantity of grain alcohol into water to kill the little nasties? Not enough to cause dehydration or intoxication, but maybe an ounce per gallon."

Actually, this could be a bad thing. Grain alcohol was mad using yeast and uses a form of bacteria to ferment it. Moreso, grain alcohol contains natural sugars that most forms of microbes thrive on. IMHO, this would be bad.

I believe chorine or iodine would be the best bet before getting into the comercially produced purification chemicals.

Berek
 
Those of you that have not personally tried the solar still method should give it a try. It is a last ditch effort that produces very small quantities of water unless you are using a lot of square footage in areas with favorable conditions.

In wet east Tennessee I've gotten as little as a cup and as much as a liter of water from a standard poncho sized "condenser" in a day and neither is enough to meet the drinking water needs for a person.

If you were able to mount many of these you could collect enough to survive on, but you'd probably need 4 5'x5' sheets/tarps to make it work adequately for you.

Please share everything that you've tried or seen done effectively, but if you've never tested your knowledge please say so before making recommendations.
 
Sheldon J, the national park service mentioned 8 drops per gallon and letting it sit for 30 or so minutes.

Berek, grain alcohol shouldn't have any yeast left in it. There should also be no sugar in it either unless you are using a very sweet liquor...hence the reason I mentioned pure grain alcohol or vodka (which is grain and water)

Another thing that crossed my mind.
If you do build a still to distill water, you can also use it for other things. Making alcohol is one. Now, I'm not talking about the kind you drink. For those of you in lumber country, you can use sawdust or woodchips as your mash (just like a whiskey distiller would use corn or grain)
Now, you do NOT want to drink wood alcohol as it leads to nasty things like blindness and ulcers and death. However, you do have a first rate fuel useful for many things. With a little work, you can get a car to run on alcohol. You can run a lantern on it or use it as a fire starter.
One could also use it as a weapon.
 
I'm sorry, but Clean97GTI you were on another discussion recently about how you were drinking and driving, after encouraging a fight coming out of a bar. :p

Now are you obsessed with drinking booze, or what??? :uhoh:

Hey - all jokes aside - stay away from trying to sanitize suspect water using booze.
 
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