Confused female (me) needs advice selecting a gun

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miss lead

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You probably get pleas like this all the time.. anyway, I'll try to be brief. I do not know anything about handguns (I have an over/under 12 ga shotgun that I shoot pretty well) but now I want something a little smaller, to keep bedside or take with me when I go camping.

I have been looking at the j-frame Smith and Wessons .357, model 60 which I figured I'd load with .38 bullets (if any of my terminology sounds wrong, please try not to laugh :confused: )

But then I got to thinking, why not just purchase a .38 special (S&W).

The issue is the aesthetics. I want to be able to look at the gun and think it's beautiful. While the model 60 is a fine enough looking handgun, the stainless is a bit utilitarian for me. I like nickel or even the blue steel. I couldn't find any of the model 60s in either of those finishes, but there are plenty of .38s to choose from it seems.

So, if I were planning to use .38 bullets in a .357 anyway, is there any disadvantage to just using .38 bullets in a .38 gun? Would the effect be the same? Or are there j-frame .357s with round butts and which are able to shoot .38 bullets out there, which are not stainless steel?

I have been perusing forums and online gun shops like crazy but there are so many S&W models that it gets confusing really quickly. Thanks for your help.
 
Welcome to THR!

There are plenty of used nickel or blued .38SPL S&Ws for sale on Gunbroker, Auction Arms or GunsAmerica.

You said you wanted "something smaller." Smaller than what, the shotgun? Or, did you mean a smaller handgun in general?

I'm a big fan of the Model 10, myself. K-frames are much nicer to shoot than the smaller J-frames. If you don't intend on carrying it concealed, get a 4" or so barrel on whatever. Achieving accuracy with snubbies is difficult.
 
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No reason whatever not to get a blue or nickel plated .38, except you must be a little careful they don't rust. Just wipe them off now and then with a silicone cloth.

Or you can get stainless and have someone polish it to a high shine, looks similar to nickel and the finish won't rust or flake.

You will never need or want to shoot .357 in the M60. The .357 recoil is painful and .38 is plenty of power anyhow.

Look for any good used, or new, S&W Airweight J-frame .38 that appeals to you. There are many, many different models available.

You can easily change the grips to a set that are comfortable and that look good to you.
 
I would agree with the .38. If you don't anticipate carrying it as a concealed weapon, I would seriously look at the mid frame (K) revolvers. They will be a lot more fun to shoot. Even a steel J frame .38 has some kick to it.

The Model 10 12 14 & 15 come to mind. Again for camping and home defense, a 4" version would be ideal.

Mdl10snub.jpg
Nickel plated Model 10. 2" bbl. They come in 2's, 4's, 5's and 6's fixed sights
Mdl14-2.jpg
Blue Model 14 6" bbl and adjustable sights.
If you are stuck on a blued J frame with a round butt, look for a Model 36
Mdl36.gif

This is a very homely Model 36 with ancient Crimson Trace grips and the hammer has been bobbed for pocket carry.

Hope this gives you a place to start.

I am sure others will be along to add more information

Good luck in your quest.
 
Hi,

Thanks for joining!

You can definitely load .38 Special in any revolver chambered for .357 magnum. The .357 magnum case is just slightly longer, which was intended so that geniuses wouldn't try to load the magnum rounds in guns chambered in .38 Special.

The only issue that might (and won't, with proper cleaning) crop up is that extended (a LOT) shooting of .38s through a .357 might cause a ring of fouling to build up at the front end of the cylinder because the .38 is a shorter round. If you don't clean it reasonably frequently, it's conceivable that the buildup could make it hard to chamber the .357 magnum should you choose to do so.

If you plan on only shooting .38 Special, there is no discernable advantage to picking a gun chambered in .357, but there's no disadvantage, either, so my advice on that count is to make that distinction last on your priority list for picking a handgun.

As far as attractive guns go, if you like the blued or color case-hardened look, S&W still makes the J-frame model 36 and 40. These are carbon steel guns that are either blued or case hardened with walnut grips. The Model 36 has an exposed hammer that you can cock for single-action shooting, if that's your thing, but I personally prefer the Model 40, which has a completely shrouded hammer that won't catch on clothing when you draw it.

To make it prettier, I recommend Badger grips, which can be had for about $80 and come in several styles and colors. The style shown allows you to have your third finger better supporting the gun, as opposed to the "boot" style grips on the stock guns, which leave your pinky finger dangling.

If you're going to take this gun camping or by your bedside, I recommend that you get a 3" barrel version. The 2" barrel guns are very concealable, but the ejector rod is not full-length, meaning that when you eject the cartridges from the cylinder, the rod does not push them all the way out, you have to shake or dump them out. If you shoot enough rounds that the cylinder warms up (It doesn't take many), this can mean slightly slower reloading because the hot cases will expand and stick in the cylinder, which can then require you to them pull them out manually.

The 3" barrel has a longer ejection rod that makes ejecting fired cases easier. Additionally, it adds a tiny bit to the gun's sight radius (The distance between the front and rear sights), which makes it a bit easier to shoot well, and a tiny bit to the weight, which helps tame recoil slightly. If you choose to conceal it, the 3" barrel is only slightly harder to conceal than the 2".

I also recommend that you stick with the steel guns. Besides from the aesthetics of them, the weight of steel as opposed to the ultra-lightweight aluminum- or scandium-framed guns really helps tame the recoil, which is not terrible, but is still significant.

For ammunition for it, I recommend Speer 135-gr. Gold Dot short barrel .38 Special +P, Cor-Bon DPX 110-gr. +P, or Federal 125-gr. Nyclad.

For practice ammunition, 148-gr. wadcutters are easy to shoot with low recoil. Another favorite is American Eagle 130-gr. full metal jacket. I would avoid the 158-gr. Blazer aluminum-cased lead round nose bullets, I found them to have worse recoil than my .357 magnum and to be absolutely filthy.

The problem you may run into is that you will probably have to order your gun from a gun store specifically, as those models are a bit rarer and more expensive that S&W's flagship J-frame, the aluminum-framed Models 637 and 642.

Good luck!
 
Welcome!

I think you are on the right trail and really appreciate your interest.

I'd recommend you stick with a steel firearm, no lightweights... The steel is heavier and will make shooting a lot more comfortable, especially when you are learning.

The 357 magnum is more versatile, since you can shoot both 38 and 357, but the 357 has way more noise, blast and recoil. Ear-splitting if shot in a confined space like a bedroom in a home defense scenario.

The 38 is an excellent choice. Here are some recommendations...

1. Get some good training, NRA Course then defensive pistol course
2. As to firearms... Go with a dedicated 38 to start. The S&W K Frame 38's will be easier to shoot and have better triggers. The S&W J Frame 38's will be more difficult to shoot well. If you like the size of the J Frame, then try to find a model 36-1. They were made with 3" barrels, which help accuracy and will give you a full length ejector rod.

Hope that helps...
 
Thank you - this is exactly the advice I was hoping for. I was kind of leaning toward the j-frame because I just feel more comfortable with a smaller gun around and I just like the way they feel. I have handled (not shot) a model 29 with I think a 5-inch barrel and that gun seemed huge. What length barrel is optimum? I've been thinking a 3" but maybe there's rationale that says shorter or longer?

If you think the .38 is sufficient power for my use, then I'll start looking at those with more enthusiasm.
 
The model 29 is an N frame and is huge. The K and L frames fit in between the J's and the N's.

You can get a J frame with up to a 5" barrel if you so desire.

The S&W Model 10 .38 is the "classic" revolver.
There are also Colt's and Rugers to consider. The Colt's are more expensive. Rugers are great guns too, a little less expensive, and usually a little heavier than their counterparts, but they will last forever.
 
If you don't plan to carry the gun then the all steel 3" is fine.

If you do plan to carry it, you will probably wish you had the shorter 2", lighter alloy framed gun. The extra weight and barrel length really don't add much useful.

Round butt J-frame is correct. Over time you'll appreciate the short light weight versions, and you'll be able to shoot it just fine with a little practice. Get light target loaded ammo for practice and learning.
 
Could somebody post pictures of a j-frame and a k-frame gun side-by-side?

If I ever did want to carry it someday, would the k-frame be too big?
 
A model 29 is a Large Frame. S&W currently offers J, K, L, N & X frames... J the smallest and X the largest.

If you're not totally set on a J frame, handle a medium size like a K frame and see how it fits your hand. The two .38 only K frames that are not stainless steel that come to mind are the Model 10 & 15. Also, J frames hold 5 rounds and K frames hold 6.
 
If I ever did want to carry it someday, would the k-frame be too big?
Click to expand...

Yes, too big and too heavy. These were normally carried police in belt holsters.

Differences are not too easy to see, but handle any K-frame and then any alloy (light weight) round butt j-frame.

The differences will be very easy to feel. Recoil with target ammunition is light. Any of the bottom 3 guns above are excellent choices, I'd prefer the aluminum framed lighter versions (can't tell from the pics if these are alloy or steel).
 
Welcome to the High Road

Understand that no gun is perfect, they are all compromises. With this in mind you will end up with several

That should take the pressure off of finding "the perfect gun" because it doesn't exist.

Everyone needs at least one snubbie and the J frame is a good way to go.

I would encourage you to save some money and get a better gun by buying a used S&W. There are lots of reasons for this.

Also, heed the advice of those suggesting K frames. They are a great compromise of size. 3 inch barrels are not uncommon.

The main thing is SHOOT BEFORE YOU BUY!!!
 
If you're not thinking about carrying it now. I would look at a smith and Wesson 586 in either 38 or 357. the larger gun makes it much more comfortable to shoot with either 38s or 357's.

my fiance was looking to get a gun, and after shooting two rounds through an airweight j frame she wanted nothing to do with it. but she's shot a 686 (the stainless version of the 586) with no problems at all.

if you decide to get a gun for carry, you can always get a j fame later. (trust me, guns are like bugs, if you let one into your house, before you know it you'll have an infestation).
 
The reason you can't find a Model 60 in blue is that the 60 means it is stainless steel. The Model 36 is the same gun in blue or nickel. It is common with S&W model numbers to have two numbers for the same gun depending on the type of steel used.

You need to decide how important it is to you to carry the gun concealed. A J-frame gives up one round of capacity and a 2 inch barrel gives up a lot of bullet speed compared to a 3 or 4 inch. It's a good compromise if you carry the gun concealed, a bad one if you don't.

Be sure your hands are strong enough to pull the trigger double action and still hold the gun steady. I once bought a K frame for my sister and despite my special smoothing job, she still couldn't pull the trigger and hold the gun steady. Try before you buy.

Best of luck.
 
The Model 36 is the same gun in blue or nickel.
Click to expand...

Thank you. This simple factoid has eluded me and it's kind of important given my original dilemma.

I am going to be shooting a couple of different guns on Monday, so that will tell me a lot. I had only thought I'd shoot J frames but I will ask to shoot a K frame as well. This'll be interesting.
 
If I ever did want to carry it someday, would the k-frame be too big?
Click to expand...

It's not impossible but it is a bit more heavy and difficult to conceal. It also depends on your stature and what barrel length you have as well as how/where (pocket, inside the waist band, outside the waist band) you plan to carry it.


Differences are not too easy to see, but handle any K-frame and then any alloy (light weight) round butt j-frame.

The differences will be very easy to feel. Recoil with target ammunition is light.
Click to expand...

It seems that she is set on a steel frame, so that will help with recoil a bit.
 
Yes, I have handled the aluminum frames and did not like the feel as well as steel.

I am tall so could maybe get away with carrying something a little larger I'm thinking.
 
since looks is a selling point for you if you haven't gone through the picture threads do so. I'm looking to get a 686 snub, but it sounds like that might be a bit bulky for you... here is an "all inclusive revolver picture thread." you can just page through it till something catches your eye... most are identified. Keep in mind that these are not all the caliber you want

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=338194&page=11
 
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