Considering Model 10 Options

[John Wayne]

I have a model 10-7 than I paid $189 for. It shoots, but the finish has a lot of holster wear and the cylinder has begun to drag on the back of the barrel. I don't think the yoke or crane are bent (despite my idiot friend's best efforts in slamming the cylinder shut ), so it looks like it might be a simple endshake fix.

Anyway, I'd like to have it reblued at some point, and was wondering if it might be more worth my while just to sell this gun and buy a nicer model 10 (that doesn't need work). Most go for under $400 around here, and I figure a good bluing job and action tuneup will run me at least $200.

This will be a shooter and occasional carry piece. I like the K-frame .38, and I like owning a piece of history. Most other model 10's I've looked at are nickel though.

- How well does S&W's bright & shiny finish hold up to shooting and holster wear? I think holster wear on a blued gun adds character, but all the nickel guns I've seen that have wear are flaky and look like crap.

- Should I invest in a bluing job and tuneup, or sell my gun and purchase a model 10 in better condition?

My options re: used model 10's right now are a Model 10-5 4", nickel finish, darn close to 100% for $395, a WWII Victory Model for $315 (would still need action tuned), and a model 10-7 2" for $350 (crappy price for its condition).

What would y'all do?

 

[RON in PA]

Leave the finish alone and save your money, find out from a gunsmith why there is cylinder drag, you do clean the face of the cylinder, don't you? Also there a possibility the extractor rod has begun to unscrew. If you need a gun that doesn't show much holster wear get a stainless model 64.

 

[wnycollector]

If you decide to go the refinish route, check out the brushed satin chrome from http://www.mahovskysmetalife.com/PriceSheet Page 5.htm for $150 it would make your model 10 look great. They also offer bluing for $85!

 

[BCRider]

Read the model 10 sticky at the top of the page to evaluate your cylinder play. If it's tight then I'd say keep what you have and doctor it up a little action wise. You should be able to do that much for quite cheap. Especially if you can do some of the work yourself.

Of course if you don't have diddly for tools and don't trust yourself to work on your own gun then paying for a smith to do the work can quickly turn a cheap gun into an expensive gun. If this is your case then it makes perfect sense money wise to sell what you have and move on to one of the deals you mentioned or one that will come along in the near future.

Of course another option would be to buy a replacement but keep the one you have and use it as a project to learn how to service a Model 10 Again the sticky on the Model 10 at the top of the forum is like a complete version of "Model 10's for Dummies". With that and a bit of extra help you could likely do most of the minor or medium difficulty items to make your present worn looking 10 an excellent shooter. It may not LOOK all that great but it's hard to see the blemishes when you're holding most of it in your hands and staring over the sights....

 

[John Wayne]

Well, it's not that I don't like the gun. I just feel like with deals such as the $250 model 64's at J&G sales, it would be easier (and cheaper) to sell my model 10 and get something in better condition for less money than getting the 10 worked on.

 

[SaxonPig]

Refinishing is never economically feasible. You spend more than the gun is worth to reduce the value.

If you want a new looking gun and have no real attachment to this one then sell it and buy what you want.

 

[Stophel]

I like worn, but cared for pistols. They have character.

 

[Stainz]

I'd clean it - stem to stern. Remove the cylinder, if it doesn't spin freely when released. That frontmost sideplate screw, just forward of the trigger, retains the yoke and cylinder. Allow Hoppes time to penetrate that chamber exit bore crud - and rub only with a nylon brush (M16 style - or an old tooth brush). Repeat as necessary until you get any thickness down to just a discolored ring - it's there until you polish it away. I use WD-40 on paper towels to wipe the blued surfaces with. Keep doing that until they come away without the rust-discoloration - which they acquired over years of holster carry. You can even use a soft paste car wax - not a 'rejuvenator' - to pick up some shine and protection. Oil rotating components (cylinder, yoke) with a decent gun oil - completely but sparingly. Shoot it - clean it. Don't put it in a holster unless you are about to carry it that way. Keep it as a house gun, if nothing else, and save your moola to buy a dedicated SS plinker. You'll likely never find that nice of a 'house gun' for what you have in it. If it still drags, call S&W - they'll send a pick-up stamp to ship it to them and deliver it back to you - and fix it correctly - at a reasonable price. There are a lot of shadetree gunsmiths out there who will do lesser quality work for more money.

Stainz

PS I am now down to one blued S&W - a 2" 10-11 I bought new. SS rules!!

 

[madcratebuilder]

If you want to return it to pristine condition you can send it back to S&W, they are pretty reasonable and do great work. Fords can take a well worn revolver and re-stamp the logo's, re-blue it and it well look as new.

You could sell it and buy a nicer condition revolver.

Depends on how attached you are to this particular revolver.