Contamined My Stash

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An unfired CCI Lg Pistol primer should weight about 4.6 -4.7 grains each.

Two should weigh 9.2 - 9.4.

Try that on your scales.

Can a Thompson contender handle that load? If so might me a good reason to guy one.

Realistically, I'd do as others have said. Peel off one layer check for your 40. If you haven't found them peel off another layer.

Guns are cheap fixing fingers isn't. Taking apart 2k worth of rounds will be quicker than learning to write with your left hand.
Best way to be safe is to pull them. the baggie deal is a great ideal i do it all the time. and they are super cheap. i have a cheap lee beam scale i check my digital scale with all the time and a set of check weights. You can also check the 166% case fill, make a round with the overcharge in it. at 166% it should feel rough when you seat the bullet. better safe than sorry though. If it was me I would pull them and just tell myself that is what you get for not having all proper equipment. a check weight can be made of anything. a bullet, a case, or a combo. RC made you a check weight with a primer. just a thought though, maybe shake them and see if you can hear the powder, i check for a no charge problem i had once like this and it worked. im sure at that level you are compressed and cannot hear the powder.
4.0 grs. is too close to rely on cartridge weight to identify an over charge IMO. And honestly, it just isn't a recommended method of fixing a problem like this. Brass, bullets, and primers combined could very possibly have a 4.0 gr. variance.

This is where check weights come in. I would use check weights to get close to the powder charge weight to verify if the scale is measuring accurately and consistently.
FWIW, the QL percent fill is based on seating depth. For a 40 S&W case with no bullet (seating depth set to zero), the case is 70% full with 10.4 gr of PP.
So the 40 are sitting on a pile of 2000. Hard one but I don't trust that you could weight them and determine the bad ones.

I think I would just sit down and pull them all. Yes it would be a pain, it would probably take several evenings but I am not going to risk my guns and my hand on a gross overload l like that.
The baggie thing is not a bad idea.
For a large batch that requires multiple baggies, I always put a date or have sometimes used a random lot number (random, but same number) on each bag.

I recently started using a reloading log, though. I think this is a better solution. Just a notebook on my reloading bench. I use the date for the lot number, followed by a letter, for multiple batches on the same day. I record any pertinent information in there, so I just need to put the date on the physical bag(s) of ammo but will retain a complete , chronological history on file. If you find a problem, you might have to go back further to make sure other lots weren't affected. And when you open a new brick of primers or powder, or make any changes to your dies or setup, or switch to a new lot of casting alloy or a new lube, etc, you can record that in your log and automatically know which lots are prior to, and which are after. When you run into an issue with your reloads, it's like finding a cancer. The less you have to cut away and still be confident in your ammo, the better.

Having had to burn though a carefully stockpiled stash of ammo after running into a bad lot of primers (and they were all good!), and also coming to the realization that reloading is really more of a hobby to me than a cost-saving measure in any practical sense, it doesn't bother me to take a little bit of time to scribble things down in a notebook. It is much less of a bother and inifinitely more useful than carefully labeling each and every container of physical ammo and then tossing that info out after you shoot it.
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Before I did anything to pull the bullets, etc., I would borrow or buy a decent beam type scale and use it to check out the electronic.
Pull 'em. What name brand is your electronic scale that takes batteries? If I may ask?
I tried to sort by weight for light charges or over charges. Doesn't Work 100%. Case weight varies. Start pulling them down. It isn't worth getting hurt or loosing body parts.
I seriously doubt you could find much by weighing the finished rounds.

I agree with JC here. Dont waste your time, as Ive never had much luck with it. But ymmv
I do seem to remember thinking that the charge in the case came somewhat closer to the mouth of the case than I remember, but I could be dreaming.

There has been some great advice on how to deal with the issue at hand and how to try and prevent the same issue in the future. The only thing I want to add to what has already been posted it to trust your gut. When you think something does not look right, then double check what you have. I had the same feeling over the weekend loading 5.6gr of Unique for my 40S&W. I haven't loaded this combination in a while, so it seems the brass was filled more than it should be. After filling a few more brass I decided to stop and verify. I checked the beam scale to make sure the setting was correct, and verified the charge on a second beam scale. Once everything checked out I was able to proceed with the reloading without that nagging feeling. I also number and date every load and label the end product.

Hope you get the issue resolved safely. Good luck.
Thanks all, lots of sound advice. Sometimes the best solution is the most difficult to hear.

On that note, anyone know a good collet puller for a Lee hand loader?

FWIW, my scale is a Frankford Arsenal digital scale. Small thing, really, but seems to have been accurate and consistent up to this point.
cheesebigot, something to consider. You could get some rubber stamp ink and a cheap spray bottle. You could lightly spray ink on the top layer of cartridges. As long as you mist it, I would think that may help avoid confusion as you weed them out. Just a thought.
Not a bad idea, thanks. I was going to use a dab of nail polish on everything I saw on the top layer, but I think I like the ink idea better.

While I sit and weep over my sins, I wondered if a radiologist might be able to detect the levels of powder within the case to determine the culprits. I tested 10.4 grains to 6.4 grains and there's a considerable volumetric difference in the .40 case.

Alas, the problem comes down to knowing someone in the field.
Don't use ink stamp ink!!!!
It will make a terrible mess of everything it touches.

Buy a can of cheap black spray lacquer and mist the top layer lightly with it.

It won't rub off on everything it touches, and your case tumbler will remove all traces of it.

i have the frankford arsenal scale and so far has been right on every time. i keep fresh batt. in it and always check with weights and against the old beam scale. i got it to see if i wanted a digital, soon to invest in a high quality digital.
I have both collet and hammer pullers. Pistol bullets have always been finicky with the press mounted collet puller. Not enough bullet shank to grab/can't grab tips/ogives. You're going to want the hammer style.

Guns are cheap- fingers aren't. I'd pull all 2,000+. (My backup career is hand model.)

FYI local pd may accept and destroy them. If time is an issue I'd consider ordering a half or full case of factory loaded online and leisurely pulling a few hand loads each day.
And yet another reason to segregate your loads in zip-lock bags with date and load data written on them.
Then putting them in ammo cans.

Rather then just throwing them loose in a big ammo can on top of older ammo.

It also helps to enable you to shoot the oldest ones first.

On that note, anyone know a good collet puller for a Lee hand loader?
I have an RCBS puller that I like. I don't know how well it will work with a Lee hand loader, I've always used it in my Lee bench mounted Challenger press. It takes leverage sometimes to pull a bullet, so a hand held press may not be a good idea.

Also, you are working with 40 S&W which often does not have much exposed straight sides for a collet puller to grab.
Unless you've messed with the powder measure I'd verify it really is now throwing 10gr instead of 6 with a known good scale before pulling bullets -- investing in some check weights seems wise. I seem to recall my FA digital came with one, I haven't used it since the batteries died, I stick with my RCBS 5-0-5 beam.
i have the frankford arsenal scale and so far has been right on every time. i keep fresh batt. in it and always check with weights and against the old beam scale. i got it to see if i wanted a digital, soon to invest in a high quality digital.

I'm curious about what the "high quality" digital scale that you plan to invest in will do that your Frankford Arsenal scale doesn't do?

FWIW, like you, I use an FA scale. I calibrate it each session, and periodically confirm the reading with check weights. It's been very reliable.
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