Conversion cylinder setups

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brewer12345

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I found an 1858 45 conversion cylinder I have no recollection of buying. If I were to set up a dedicated revolver for 45 colt with a suitable percussion revolver, is there anything I should consider adding to the gun besides the cylinder? Don't want a loading gate since I still want the option of turning it into a percussion revolver again.
 
Is it a 5-shot or a 6-shot conversion cylinder? The 5-shot is going to require slightly more rotational movement to be imparted by the pistol's hand. You have to experiment. In one of mine, I had to bevel the tip of the hand to provide enough engagement. Howell's provides supplemental instructions on how to do this. But you have to call them and ask for the instructions specifically. They don't send them out with every cylinder because most installations don't require this.
 
Can you tell me which brand of conversion cylinder? I had a Kirst Gated Conversion Cylinder in an 1858 NMA , I did cut the loading port for that reason but that did not stop me from switching it back to the percussion cylinder when I wanted to - that was actually the reason for the purchase so that I could use the revolver indoors with 45lc and outdoors with BP and round balls. The only other add-on was the ejector arm that Kirst offers.

I have since sold this revolver and conversion cylinder and recently purchased a pair of Howell 6-Shot conversion cylinders to go with my pair of Cimarron/Uberti 1858 NMA percussion revolvers. These cylinders are not gated so no loading port needed - they have to be removed to reload and I can still use my percussion cylinders.

Roger
 
I found an 1858 45 conversion cylinder I have no recollection of buying. If I were to set up a dedicated revolver for 45 colt with a suitable percussion revolver, is there anything I should consider adding to the gun besides the cylinder? Don't want a loading gate since I still want the option of turning it into a percussion revolver again.
The determining factor is whether it’s the Kirst style or the R&D/Howell’s/Taylor’s style. If the latter you don’t have to make any additions or mods to the gun at all.
 
Well like Retriever said, either Howell or Kirst will allow you to shoot cap and ball. With Howell it's a drop cylinder install, with Kirst it can be drop cylinder or gated . . . all of the above allow use of the cap cyl.

Mike
 
This is a 6 shot Howell. Sounds easy.
I agree. I have conversion cylinders from Howell, Taylor's Firearms, and Kirst--the Howells are the nicest. I've only added laser cartridges for indoor dry firing and handling practice. I smoothed the cylinder ratchets a bit, and three cylinders have been interchangeable with three different firearms. No issues, but I've only used laser cartridges up to now. Recently picked up a few boxes of cowboy loads but haven't put the guns (and cylinders) to the real test yet.

Kinda funny that you found a forgotten $300 cylinder. Last week I discovered three forgotten percussion cylinders tucked behind something on a shelf.

Here are the mods Howell recommends. I just discovered this today:
1858+Uberti+Hand+Modification.pdf
 

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Thanks for all the tips, guys. I have piles of H&G 68 clone bullets on hand for 45 ACP (200 grain SWC), so I loaded up some test loads with trail boss, paying attention to the pressures that Hodgdon quotes. Will try it as soon as I can get to a range.
 
Thanks for all the tips, guys. I have piles of H&G 68 clone bullets on hand for 45 ACP (200 grain SWC), so I loaded up some test loads with trail boss, paying attention to the pressures that Hodgdon quotes. Will try it as soon as I can get to a range.
Where the heck did you find Trail Boss?
 
Where the heck did you find Trail Boss?

Not where, when: before everything went to <expletive deleted> It isn't something I have found a use for in other cartridges, so I figure it should be ideal for this application. We hunt jackrabbits pretty frequently in the winter and they often require a finishing shot (or two) after we hit them with a shotgun. I have used various handguns for doing so, but I think it would be mega cool to have an 1858 handy for the job. Cap and ball would work, but the place we hunt is pretty rough and I would prefer to have a cartridge gun for this, at least to start.
 
You outta try hunting them just with your pistol....it's a real challenge and a hoot. If you hit one it's usually a done deal, they ain't getting up.
 
Here are the mods Howell recommends. I just discovered this today:
1858+Uberti+Hand+Modification.pdf
Yes, those are the instructions I was referring to earlier. But I would say two things:

1. Don't make this alteration unless necessary. Try the cylinder in the gun first and see if it works without messing with the hand.
2. If you need to file on the hand, take it out of the frame first. This is easy to do. In fact, it's easier to do than masking the frame as they recommend. Also, order a spare hand from VTI Gun Parts (they're cheap) in case you need it when going back to the original percussion cylinder.
 
Yes, those are the instructions I was referring to earlier. But I would say two things:

1. Don't make this alteration unless necessary. Try the cylinder in the gun first and see if it works without messing with the hand.
2. If you need to file on the hand, take it out of the frame first. This is easy to do. In fact, it's easier to do than masking the frame as they recommend. Also, order a spare hand from VTI Gun Parts (they're cheap) in case you need it when going back to the original percussion cylinder.

If you do have to replace the hand they're not a drop in fit. It will need filing down.
 
If you do have to replace the hand they're not a drop in fit. It will need filing down.
When I got a spare hand from VTI, it was absolutely identical to the original one in the Uberti. So I would say that special fitting may or may not be required. The Italians have made great strides in interchangeability.

Also note that the Uberti 1873 Peacemaker has a separate, small coil spring for the hand, in the frame. AFAIK the Uberti Remmie still uses the flat spring attached to the hand. So when you're ordering a replacement hand, you're actually getting an assembly, with a staked-in spring.
 
When I got a spare hand from VTI, it was absolutely identical to the original one in the Uberti. So I would say that special fitting may or may not be required. The Italians have made great strides in interchangeability.

Also note that the Uberti 1873 Peacemaker has a separate, small coil spring for the hand, in the frame. AFAIK the Uberti Remmie still uses the flat spring attached to the hand. So when you're ordering a replacement hand, you're actually getting an assembly, with a staked-in spring.

I had to file one a good bit and reshape it to fit my Pietta Griswold & Gunnison.
 
I dug a pietta 1858 I bought second hand a bit ago and have yet to fire. The cylinder fit nicely, but the prior owner had packed the action with grease and the grease dried up enough to make the action gummy. I completely disassembled the gun and cleaned all the gunk off. Everything is nice and smooth now and ready to shoot.
 
[QUOTE="AlexanderA, post: 12164621, member: 146007"
Also note that the Uberti 1873 Peacemaker has a separate, small coil spring for the hand, in the frame. AFAIK the Uberti Remmie still uses the flat spring attached to the hand. So when you're ordering a replacement hand, you're actually getting an assembly, with a staked-in spring.[/QUOTE]

Remington revolvers can't utilize a spring and plunger (Ruger style) hand spring. The grip frame/frame is one piece so there isn't a way to keep the spring and plunger in place without an exposed screw (unsightly). That setup would also not be allowed for cowboy shooting. I figured out how to use a coil/torsion spring for the hand in Remington's. It gives the hand a "life of the revolver" ability.

And by the way, hands aren't drop-in parts . . . if it functions that's all it means . . . it functions. Hand length is critical for correct timing and a new hand is longer to take care of wear . . .


Mike
 
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