Cracked m1 Garand Stock Help Please

Joined
Feb 24, 2007
Messages
1,882
They seem to be minor cracks. I have had all sorts of recommendations from using Gorilla Glue forced into the cracks to brass rods brownells offers. This stock was professionally bedded with a pillar added to the receiver. I did not notice these cracks until I got it home.

I am honestly not sure I want to get it fixed or see if the dealer and I can work something out. It has a new Krieger barrel on it.

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Some uninitiated bozo couldn't get the action out and thumped the heel of the buttstock on the floor to revove it. Seen it before. A home fix is not real tough, paying for a bedded and pillar installed stock is.
The brass rod and glue fix works prefectly well.
 
That wood has bad grain structure--runs off the stock in a short distance. The stock could be repaired, but good repairs would be visible. I'd see what the seller would do in the way of reimbursing some of the cost. Might say buyer should have been aware, but worth a try.

If you can get part of the cost back, look for a better stock.
 
That stock is fixable. Go the Brownell's route using the brass pin/screw method. Force accraglas into the cracks with compressed air.....bind the stock cracks closed with surgical tubing and you ought to be good to go.
Gotta ask if you are sure the fella that did the bedding didn't do the damage while removing the bbl/action following setup.......that'd be my guess.
 
That stock is fixable. Go the Brownell's route using the brass pin/screw method. Force accraglas into the cracks with compressed air.....bind the stock cracks closed with surgical tubing and you ought to be good to go.
Gotta ask if you are sure the fella that did the bedding didn't do the damage while removing the bbl/action following setup.......that'd be my guess.
I believe this is what happened. I have known the seller for years so I know he and I can work it out. The question in my mine is with the bedding job and the brand new barrel how much more accurate than my typical CMP Garand. Is it worth the fix I guess is what I am trying to say. The bore and muzzle gauge reads just a bit under 1, 65 round down the bore.
 
FYI I did not pay for the bedding or anything got it.

And yes I should have seen it but with the lighting and not having my glasses I did not see it. Yeap my fault. Not all that worried I know I can have it made right from where I got it from.
 
That wood has bad grain structure--runs off the stock in a short distance. The stock could be repaired, but good repairs would be visible. I'd see what the seller would do in the way of reimbursing some of the cost. Might say buyer should have been aware, but worth a try.

If you can get part of the cost back, look for a better stock.
This is not your traditional stock as a pillar was added to the receiver
 
The question in my mine is with the bedding job and the brand new barrel how much more accurate than my typical CMP Garand. Is it worth the fix I guess is what I am trying to say. The bore and muzzle gauge reads just a bit under 1, 65 round down the bore.
No reasonable person can predict how much more accurate it will be. Probably some improvement. How much depends on too many variables.
 
No reasonable person can predict how much more accurate it will be. Probably some improvement. How much depends on too many variables.
Ok Ok I deserved that traditional battle rifle is 3 to 4 MOA that was spec in those days. Is it worth fixing or maybe just returning.
 
I have a forestock that has bern repaired with brass pins and glue. Thought about replacement but the fix is part of gun's history.

I bedded it myself with CMP instructions Accraglass, modeling clay for recesses and plenty of release agent. Worked fine, lasts a looong time.
 
Not a fix, but possibly as a spare, Sarco still has their bargain ($50) Italian stocks available:

https://www.sarcoinc.com/m1-garand-stock-only-wood-only/

These were originally 1/2" short for Beretta 7.62x51 conversions, then fitted with a walnut extension to resume normal length. Sounds clunky but they did a good job on the one I bought from them.

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Let me say, given a dremel tool, and good Devcon metal filled epoxy, that stock can be fixed. I have ground a lot of wood out of actions. I did not take pictures when I bedded my Garands, I don't think digital camera's were around then.

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Anyway, leave a thin external wood section on the outside, and cast a thick epoxy section well forward, back, and down. The epoxy will be stronger than the wood. Bisonite used to be real popular with the M1a crowd, it would flow for the first 10 minutes and turn into peanut butter for the next. It was a metal filled epoxy. I have used a lot of Devcon metal filled epoxies. I am going to say, look for the metal filled epoxies, they are really strong. The outer wood will more or less be a veneer. I tired to create quarter of an inch epoxy layers, or more, if I could.

A cheap release agent is Johnson paste wax . You can smear it over everything. I have used spray mold release, works fine on the tight areas, then Johnson paste wax over everything else. Then I just smeared Johnson paste wax over the tight areas and everything else.
 
Some uninitiated bozo couldn't get the action out and thumped the heel of the buttstock on the floor to remove it. Seen it before.
This is the problem with too-tight bedding. You lose the ability to take it apart easily. In this particular case, somebody overdid the bedding.

If this was mine, I'd just get another surplus stock and start over.
 
This is the problem with too-tight bedding. You lose the ability to take it apart easily. In this particular case, somebody overdid the bedding.

Action bedding with Garands and M1a's was deliberately tight. I never conducted tests to see what level of looseness affected accuracy, I believed, and so did the gunsmiths I talked to, that tighter was better for accuracy.

I earned my Distinguished with an M1a. I only took the action out of the stock at the end of the shooting season. That was when I cleaned out all the powder residue on the operating rod, underside of the barrel, barrel channel, and cleaned gunk out between the receiver and stock. And if an action became "loose", I rebedded it back to "tight".

I always rebed the action if a new barrel was installed. I put too much money, time and effort into shooting to let a loose action ruin my scores.
 
This is the problem with too-tight bedding. You lose the ability to take it apart easily. In this particular case, somebody overdid the bedding.

If this was mine, I'd just get another surplus stock and start over.

I tend to disagree, the object of bedding is to decrease the overall movement of the action on the stock. With a properly bedded Garand it should be difficult to remove the action. Its accomplished by using a plastic or wood piece up through the action with the trigger assembly removed, several taps, some wiggling and their you go. Not sure these days what a proper bedding job would cost plus buying the replacement stock. Another poster also alludes to tight fitment of stocks in Garands, and explains it better than me
 
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The receiver was not bedded in the stock correctly.

The heel of the receiver should sit flat on the stock, yours was obviously sitting above the the stock, as you have a small pillar of bedding material where the heel sits.

As a result, the rear lug was taking a majority of the recoil load, which overloaded the thinner sections of the stock.
 
Unless it has some desirable markings/cartouches retire it. Not worth the time imo. The bedding is what screwed it up in the first place by being to tight to take the action in and out. Way to many others out there to be had. They are for sale on the CMP forum and Dupage Trading all the time...
 
DUring my Army time I was a member of a rifle team using match grade 14's........those rifles, in addition to the NM sights and non crome'd bbls, were glass bedded and we were specifically forbidden to disassemble them...........Alexander is absolutely correct on his comment.
 
The receiver was not bedded in the stock correctly.
I agree. My M1A is in an issue National Match stock, which came routed in the correct places for bedding compound. And, when I installed it, I put glass bedding in those specified places. The result in no way resembles the OP's pictures.
 
My first choice would be a new Boyd’s walnut stock.
They come tight enough as to require fitting. So, no epoxy or wood shims necessary.

FWIW, this appears to be an attempt to create a match gun. The NRA allows the mods, however the CMP doesn’t. If you win or place in a big match, they will request an inspection. In that case, the gun and score will be disqualified.

My CMP “Special” w/Criterion barrel and New stock broke through the wrist. I replaced it with a Boyd’s. ( same as original). Accuracy was unaffected. I’ve placed with it in a CMP match at Talladega CMP range. It passed inspection.
 
CMP's booklet "The M1 Rifle" Handling, shooting and accurizing the first gas operated US Service rifle....describes how to glass bed the rifle and the proper way to remove the stock.

Makes no difference now, but it looks to me like insufficient release agent and maybe not enough, if any, modeling clay in the recesses on the clip release and trigger group.
 


The heel of the receiver should sit flat on the stock, yours was obviously sitting above the the stock, as you have a small pillar of bedding material where the heel sits.

It is my opinion that the heel should be completely resting on material, no gaps under it, and for safety reasons, there should be a gap forward of it.

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Inspection of like new Garands (I never got to handle new M14's) consistently reveals this air gap forward of the heel under the receiver. It has to be a deliberate design feature of the Garand action. It is my opinion this air gap is a gas vent in case something really bad happens. Gas will go down the magazine, gas will vent out the sides through the left and right air gaps, but gas will not reach the shooters face as long as the heel is tightly fitted to the stock, or as in the pictures above, a layer of two part epoxy.

I have seen actions bedded so deeply in the stock as to bury that air gap in epoxy, and I think that is a mistake.

As a result, the rear lug was taking a majority of the recoil load, which overloaded the thinner sections of the stock.

Conjecture. In a military stock, the rear tangs distribute the load in the stock

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I am certain the rear lug will also carry recoil load, and maybe it was supposed to do that. I assume it was to make the whole receiver stock fit more rigid, keep the receiver from twisting. I could not tell much of a difference in accuracy between a non real lug receiver and a rear lugged receiver. The gunsmith who lugged my Garand said a lugged receiver would hold its bedding longer.

In so far as claiming the rear lug carries more load than the tang, which implies stressing of the action, I don't see how that is possible based on how actions are bedded. All the routing of wood is done at the same time, and then the epoxy is poured in all recesses, and the action squeezed on top. At that moment the epoxy has the consistency of peanut butter to melted butter, depending on the epoxy. There will be no stressing of the action due to the epoxy. The action must go in stress free or there will be gaps in the epoxy. Once the epoxy is cured, there will be deliberate downward tension on the front of the action, back on the tang, due to the barrel being pulled downward at the upper ferrule. This is intentional. This bedding was figured out by the early 1960's, might be about five pounds of tension on the barrel at the upper ferrule. Almost all of the why's and wherefores of Garand/M14 bedding was figured out 60 or more years ago, and no one knows what alternate configurations were tried and discarded. Pretty much like the processing of cassava into something edible, no one knows how it started, we simply copy what was done before. Because it works.

The receiver was not bedded in the stock correctly.

I am not going to try to justify someone else's bedding from a picture. I have seen worse bedding. Pretty bedding is an art.

It is more likely that whom ever removed the action, broke the stock due to the very tight fit of receiver to stock, and getting a M1 or M1a action out of the stock requires the action to move in an arc because the barrel is hooked to the upper ferrule. A previous owner just beat on the buttstock too hard and should have used a rubber mallet and just tapped and tapped to get the action out. It was his misfortune to break the stock instead of the bedding. Bad things happen.

A bud of mine, two tour Special Forces, joined in 1964, he claimed the GI M14 buttstock broke during bayonet practice. The stock broke at the pistol grip during vertical and horizontal butt stroke practice on the dummy. If you notice, on original military M14's, the stock has internal metal bracing in the magazine opening.

Nothing made by man cannot be unmade by man.
 
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