Creating .270 win rounds for Ruger American

[lonestar2222010]

Hello again everyone, I have run into a speed bump in my research for a new rifle.

I have decided on purchasing a .270 win rifle for my next hunting rifle. I have a tight budget of around $700 for rifle and scope (if I wish to purchase this new rifle by the start of rifle season this year).

I was looking at the Ruger American and I've read some disturbing things about hand loading for the .270 model. People have been having a hard time with the bolt not closing all the way after making hand loads. Some people are saying the chamber is too tight, some say a small base resizing die will fix the problem, others say to shave off 0.200" off the shell holder, and lastly i've heard to shave the die down.

I'm curious if this situation is familiar with any other Ruger American owners of this model specifically, and how they have solved the issue. I am still fairly new to reloading and the terms. if there's any special tools other than the basics please let me know.

Thank you.

 

[ironworkerwill]

If you have the dies and brass, make a dummy round (no powder or primer! to minimum col). By painting the brass you'll see where the problem is or in your case may not be. Your a bit cart before the horse.

 

[WestKentucky]

With those issues it sounds like people had poorly cut chambers. Unless there are a whole lot of complaints I wouldn't worry about it...a guy gets a decent gun they are happy, but a guy who gets a lemon likes to complain a lot. Now there are other complaints with the American that I would look at such as the crap ph magazine that would push me away, but chamber quality is not an issue to worry about.

I would look at other rifles though...mossberg ATR, savage, stevens...marlin.......everybody has a budget gun out. Some are better than others. I think I would go savage if I were buying right now.

 

[BigBore45]

just neck size factory brass after you shoot it out of that gun. will fit fine when loaded to min: C.O.A.L.

 

[gamestalker]

I load for multiple Ruger American's, .270 win. included. I have had absolutely no issues reloading for them. There is no special approach or attention to detail reloading for a Ruger American over any other rifle, it's all about properly adjusting the dies, period.

I measure the head to shoulder datum of brass fired from that chamber, Ruger or other wise. Then I adjust the FL die to resize the brass, so as to maintain that specification, no more, no less. Brass that has been properly resized will last for at least 10-12 reloadings when performed properly, even if only FL sizing.

If I'm neck sizing, I measure the brass as stated above, after neck sizing, and prior to loading it. This prevents having to pull bullets and powder charges afterward, due to the shoulders needing bumping.

GS

 

[gunman5646]

follow std operating procedures

I've got a Ruger American in .270 that I reload for. Make sure your cases are trimmed for length, full length resized the first time, neck sized after that, and you should be fine.

[/IMG]. Thought I'd show you what kind of 100 yd groups I'm getting.(.875 ctr. to ctr.) I only have $650 into the rifle including the Nikon scope and all weather model.

 

[Bartojc]

This is only a guess based on my experiance.

Ruger has an issue with close tolerances on some rifles. My first American in which was in .243 I could not close the bolt with factory ammo without extreme force. Probably not the wise decision I shot the rifle 4 rounds, but realize obviously something was terribly wrong. Sent it back to Ruger for inspection and I got a new rifle. No questions, and no explanation.

Second rifle has been fine. I've run ~100 rounds though it, 80 have been handloads. I do notice that the COAL on my .243 for some bullets seems to be smaller that what I would think it should be. Other than that the second rifle has been flawless.
FWIW I can put 3 shots into .6 MOA @ 100 yards. With less than $600 invested it's a good setup.

-Jeff

 

[Tony k]

I wonder how many of the people complaining about tight bolts with reloads simply aren't setting their dies up correctly? My brother and I have both made that mistake. I had sticky bolt issues with my savage 111 in .270 (bolt hard to close before firing). I disasembled that batch, reset the FL sizing die being sure to follow the instructions to the letter. Resized the brass, and never had a sticky bolt problem since. You can't rule out operator error.

I don't know anything about the ruger american, but if you've researched rifles and decided that's the one you want, i'd go with it.

 

[GooseGestapo]

ANY time you use once fired brass from an unknown source, you should trim to minimum specification and full length size, or at least size the brass to a size you know will fit your rifle.

I use a technique that is standard for the T/C Contenders. You resize the brass until it allows the action to close easily. If that means you have to remove the decapper from the die and lightly grind the bottom of the die to allow it to size a little more, so be it!

This just means that you have a "tight" chamber, which is usually good in that it's an "ACCURATE" chamber.

On the other end of the spectrum, I've got an Interarms MkX Mauser in .270win. The chamber is on the other end of "loose". I seat my bullets to 3.35" oal and they are still ~ 0.10" off the lands. A bullet seated to touch the lands is too long for the action.

But, it's still a 3/4" rifle at 100yds.

My only "beef" with the Marlin, Ruger, Savage rifles in .270wcf is that they insist on 22" bbls. To "really' experience the .270, you need a 26"bbl, IMO.