Crimp Question..Probably easy but....

[RAD]

I don't know...
Hi guys,
I'm reloading .38 special wadcutters with a 148 gr hbwc. I have a Lee Turret press and I am seating the bullets flush with the case mouth. I use these rounds in my PPC gun (S&W Model 10 6" bull barrel). They work great and have given me no problem.
The crimp which is being applied to the case by my press is almost like a squeeze. This is hard to describe but the crimp is a hair under the case mouth and it's like the case was squeezed there and then the part of the case above the crimp to the rim is somewhat flared out. Like an upside down bell.
This is giving my S&W Model 52 magazines a problem. Like I said it works beautifiul in my revolver but when fall rolls around and bullseye season starts I'm going to run into a probelm.
I'd rather address it now. Any guidance? It's a Lee die (carbide) which seats the bullet and crimps at the same stage. I know it's that flare that's the issue but how can I get rid of it?
Thanks for any help here.

 

[Primersinmyshoe]

I would give the seat/crimp die more clockwise rotation to take out the bell (readjust seat stem last), but trying not to crimp the case tightly, for that round a little goes a long way.

 

[RAD]

So you think it's actually too much of a crimp?

 

[308win]

You want the crimp to just barely remove the bell on the case mouth, no more. Also, try seating then crimping instead of doing both in one operation.

 

[Primersinmyshoe]

When I reload the Hornady HBWC I crimp just enough to make the wall of the case straight, seating the bullet to extend just a little bit (sorry haven't measured) beyond the case mouth. I shoot them out of a S&W 686 using .357mag cases. I had been reloading them using a Lee Pro 1000 at the time (have since switched to a Dillon XL650) so I too had to use the Lee combo seat/crimp die. But I was able to get it set right for my gun. Now it's a different story using the Dillon. Your gun's requirements will certainly be different than mine, but I still believe you can do it with your equipment.

 

[Standing Wolf]

You want the crimp to just barely remove the bell on the case mouth, no more.

That works fine for revolvers, but may cause problems in a model 52, which tends to be crimp-sensitive.

 

[HSMITH]

On a 52 you want to gently roll the case mouth over the bullet. Just a little but it does need to be rolled over the bullet. If you don't the sharp edge of the case mouth will raise all kinds of heck with cycling.

Screw your crimp die in a quarter turn at a time until the case is rolled over the bullet a little.

 

[BluesBear]

The Easy Way

Get a box of factory loaded mid-range wadcutter ammo. Fire half the box to make sure it feeds and functions in your Model 52.

Remove your crimp die from your press.
Take a loaded round, place it in your shell holder and run it to the top of the stroke.
Screw your crimp die down until it's good and snug against the factory round.
And I mean SNUG.
Set the lock ring on your die.
Remove the factory round.
Now the crimp on your reloads should match the factory crimp.

For years I have kept dummy or factory rounds with which to set my dies.
It really makes things a lot easier.

 

[Ol` Joe]

38s aren`t headspaced on the mouth of the case but off the rim. They are made to have a roll crimp no matter what bullet used as suggested by HSMITH, not tapered crimped, the case wall should just roll over the shoulder of your WC bullets. Don`t over crimp as this will bulge the case wall the same as too heavy a taper crimp and cause feed problems, just a slight roll is all thats needed with target loads.