Crimping: Seating Die vs Factory Crimp Die

[gonoles_1980]

This is for a single stage press.

Thoughts on which is the better approach. You can crimp with the seating die, and that saves a step once you get the bullet depth correct and the crimp correct. That requires you to set the bullet depth, back it out, set the crimp, then set the bullet deep again using the bullet you just made.

The factory crimp is an extra step, you can use it after seating all your bullets.

Which do you guys prefer?

 

[howlnmad]

I like to use the LFCD because of the post sizing ring on my revolver rounds.

 

[Lost Sheep]

This is for a single stage press.

Thoughts on which is the better approach. You can crimp with the seating die, and that saves a step once you get the bullet depth correct and the crimp correct. That requires you to set the bullet depth, back it out, set the crimp, then set the bullet deep again using the bullet you just made.

The factory crimp is an extra step, you can use it after seating all your bullets.

Which do you guys prefer?

"That requires you to set the bullet depth, back it out, set the crimp, then set the bullet deep again using the bullet you just made."

I would not set the bullet depth a second time.

Have a read in this thread:
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=691050

On any press, seating and crimping together produces a dilemma-how to crimp onto/into a moving bullet (one being seated simultaneously with the crimp being applied). It can be done, but die adjustment is critical and there are limits to how strong a roll crimp can be made. Taper crimps are limited by design already.

The extra step involved with a single stage press is more than many loaders are willing to invest, so most single-stage users seat and crimp in one step. Progressive press users )if they have enough stations) have no such penalty. 4-station turret users can go either way, either skipping the 4th station or using it. It makes little difference.

If I were using a single stage press, I would adjust my dies very carefully and seat/crimp in one step. One exception would be if I need a particularly strong crimp (like for heavy bear-defense loads). For those, I would spare no effort to make them absolutely perfect. Target plinking, not so critical as less recoil requires less bullet tension and the consequences of failure not so great.

Good luck. Thanks for asking our advice.

Lost Sheep.

 

[jstein650]

"On any press, seating and crimping together produces a dilemma-how to crimp onto/into a moving bullet (one being seated simultaneously with the crimp being applied). It can be done, but die adjustment is critical and there are limits to how strong a roll crimp can be made..."

That's exactly what never sat with me well when it comes to seating an crimping in one step. Loads that I crimp and load singly are the .303 Brit. (Factory Crimp) and .44 mag (roll crimp). I just always felt I get more consistency doing it separately. The extra step never bothered me.

 

[Jesse Heywood]

Some of it depends on the cartridge. My straight wall revolver cartridges get a medium roll crimp with the seating die. .32-20 gets a separate crimp. 380 & 9 mm usually get taper crimp with the seating die.

 

[gonoles_1980]

I went with the factory crimp die, it was easier to just make it a four step process for loading the bullets.

 

[winkzoot]

I like the FCD. Seems to give better results for me.

 

[oneounceload]

I have been crimping with my RCBS seating die on my single stage press for 30+ years - once it is set, I never have to worry about it - whether 38, 357, 32SWL, 32ACP, 45ACP, 9x19, 380, etc.......

 

[cfullgraf]

For semi-auto pistol ammunition, I taper crimp in a separate step from seating. I have been doing that way since 1980. But, i will admit i did not care for the extra step in the process.

Until I bought a progressive a few years ago, I would roll crimp revolver rounds at the same time as seating. With the progressive, I have the extra station so the "extra" step for crimping separately from seating is a non-issue for both taper and roll crimping.

I have never seen a need for a Lee handgun FCD. I have not had a chambering problem with my handgun ammunition that required the post loading body sizing of the Lee FCD. But a few knowledgeable folks on the forum have made some good arguments for them under certain circumstances.

 

[Walkalong]

All depends.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=7699828&postcount=14

 

[gamestalker]

I've always crimped in one step using the seating die. It's worked well for me, and I've tried doing it in two steps too. But if all the brass is trimmed to the same length, doing it one step on the seating die has worked great for me.

GS

 

[rcmodel]

+1

And until you learn how to adjust a seating / crimping die correctly to do it??

The Lee FCD is a crutch that will cover up a whole host of other reloading mistakes you are ironing out with the FCD.

First, learn how to make mistakes with a standard die.
You will have pleanty of opportunities.

Then after you have figured all that out and also figured out how to correct it?

Use the Lee FCD if you want too.

It can't hurt a reloaded round from a standard seating die much.
That was right in the first place.

rc

 

[mljdeckard]

I use the FCD for my .45s because I have one (Para Ordnance) that is VERY picky. It's for the resizing more than the crimp. All my other guns (and my friends' .45s) are fine with just the regular setup. I bought the FCD based on the customer reviews on Midway that said it solved the problems other guys were having that were the same as mine.

I have loaded with it, I haven't tried with that gun yet, it was back at the Para factory. (ambi safety problems.) I told them to polish the chamber, I don't have a lot of ammo to spare right now. I carry it with factory ammo.

 

[James2]

I have always crimped with the seating die as bullets are seated. One stroke, seat and crimp. If the brass is trimmed the same it works very well for me. I don't even have a FCD in the tool shed.