Crooked flash hider - AR

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According to Advanced Armament, attached Silencers can reach 600 degres in normal use and 800 with rapid fire/full auto. If the muzzle mounted silencer is getting that hot the flash hider will also get above 450.
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A sound moderator captures the hot gases expelled from the muzzle, a flash hider does not, therefore making it much cooler IMO. I maintain that both a crush/peel washer (with properly torqued muzzle device) and Loc-tite (blue) should be used.

:)
 
If I might suggest go ahead and use Lok-Tite, when the flash hinder flies off you won't notice. The when you order the $1-2 peel washer you can get a new flashhider and the shipping won't hurt so bad.
BTW using the color to decide which is not what the Lok-Tite catalog say's the strength is indicated by the intended use and temp requirement. Thread locker is the one I use for near forever hold (450 degrees to remove) but the bearing and race locker is pretty good too and temp is higher if I remember right. All choice's are on their website.
 
If I might suggest go ahead and use Lok-Tite, when the flash [hider] flies off you won't notice. The when you order the $1-2 peel washer you can get a new flashhider and the shipping won't hurt so bad.
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How exactly is it that "both a crush/peel washer (with properly torqued muzzle device) and Loc-tite (blue) should be used" is more likely to come off than without Loc-tite? Does it have some type of lubricating quality that I am not aware of?
 
I maintain that both a crush/peel washer (with properly torqued muzzle device) and Loc-tite (blue) should be used.
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Why use loc-tite at all?

WHY?

EDIT:
You can use loc-tite if you want to, but you don't need to. You just don't. If you properly torque your muzzle device, it's not necessary. Loc-tite is no substitute for a washer and proper torque.
 
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Works?

A crush washer works. Why do anything else?

If you want to use a threadlocker, go ahead. It's a waste of time and resources to me.
 
If you want to use a threadlocker, go ahead. It's a waste of time and resources to me.
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I had trouble with my M17S (which is a bit different because it uses a tensioned bbl similar to the WA2000) until I added a drop of blue Loc-tite, now it holds firm and I use it on everything...but you're right I have probably squandered $0.20 and 30sec. in the past couple of years. :rolleyes:
 
Hey, I said time and resources... I didn't give units. ;)

I'm out of coffee and haven't been to the store. Can you tell?
 
A crush washer works. Why do anything else?
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I have Loctite. I do not have a crush washer. That's why. No I have to go through the time and and expense of ordering one.

I actually have no idea if Loctite works or not. It's something I've been curious about and will try.
 
I have Loctite. I do not have a crush washer. That's why. No I have to go through the time and and expense of ordering one.

I actually have no idea if Loctite works or not. It's something I've been curious about and will try.
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However, the OP was talking about the flash-hider not lining up. It takes the crush or peel washer to properly line up the vents on the flash-hider. You can use Loc-tite but you will more than likely not be able to properly index the hider and have it at the proper torque without the washers.
 
Using Lok-Tite is an excellent product but is not meant to replace mechanically locking a fixture (flash suppressor). If your just clocking flash ports and not tightening FS That might or might not hold. 15 or 20 rounds from m16 can make water sizzle on barrel and can burn you. how hot is that.
The OP wanted to know how to line up FS and it's turned into an argument about Lok-Tite?
The question is answered by 3 choices Peal washer, Crush washer, Thick lock washer. All allow FS to be tightened and aligned properly and in accordenance with all tech manuals.
JB weld might work too but why? Just use the correct parts.
 
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