Cure for "hair trigger" 1851 navy?

Cliff6

Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2020
Messages
159
I went to the range today and fired about 60 rounds from my Pietta 1851 Navy 36 caliber. I was impressed with the accuracy and had a LOT of fun shooting the pistol, however, the "hair trigger" is bothering me. I just takes the slightest touch to fire the pistol, almost just thinking about it!

I couldn't begin to estimate the actual trigger pull. All I can say is that it is extremely light.

These are very simple guns and only have 2 springs. Where would I start to make the trigger require a heavier pull? I know, this is the opposite of most requests.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Cliff
 
Almost sounds like the full cock notch on the hammer is worn or way shallow. You could try a heavier mainspring if you can find one. Most folks want a lighter one. I like the mainspring tension around 4 lbs. Another alternative is to double up the combination spring and see if it makes any difference. If it gets too far out of hand you could send to me for tuning and or repairs. My bench is currently clear.
 
Almost sounds like the full cock notch on the hammer is worn or way shallow. You could try a heavier mainspring if you can find one. Most folks want a lighter one. I like the mainspring tension around 4 lbs. Another alternative is to double up the combination spring and see if it makes any difference. If it gets too far out of hand you could send to me for tuning and or repairs. My bench is currently clear.

It definitely shouldn't be worn out since I have fired the pistol for less than 60 rounds. I'm sure many folks may really like the extremely light trigger pull of my pistol, but I find this just way too light for safety. I was thinking about the full cock notch being too shallow, but don't want to dig in without a few ideas.
 
Yep, I agree. I'll open her up in the morning. This is a very simple pistol and shouldn't be too difficult to find something.
 
Hair trigger in one hand may not be in another. Actual pull measurement and consistency should be made This may show a problem.
Also check the trigger bolt spring, a weak or ready to break will cause light trigger.
 
I just finished a friend's 1st gen Colt SAA that had a trigger pull of less than one pound. Someone had worked the "contact point" of the trigger right to the front edge of the full cock notch where it was just waiting to let go. I was able to stone the contact point back to the middle of the full cock notch and wound up with pull of just under 3 pounds.
 
Hair trigger in one hand may not be in another. Actual pull measurement and consistency should be made This may show a problem.
Also check the trigger bolt spring, a weak or ready to break will cause light trigger.

While I agree completely with you, this IS a scary hair trigger. I have many pistols and have shot thousands of rounds. I wish the trigger pull on some of my guns was lighter, but that's okay.
 
I just finished disassembly and reassembly. I found nothing obvious. I did see that the end of the "hand & spring" has grinder/file marks. This is a new pistol, so I am assuming that this is where some fine tuning of the pistol is done at the factory. Maybe they just over ground the hand making the trigger very light?

Cliff
 
Maybe they just over ground the hand making the trigger very light?

Cliff

I'm eager to hear other opinions, but the hand and hand spring has little if any effect on trigger pull. Focus on the sear contacting the full cock notch in the hammer. Is the trigger spring ( one leg of the 'trigger-bolt spring' ) strong enough to push the sear all the way back into the notch? are the sear and notch surfaces smooth and flat or do they appear to have been "worked on"?

edit: two cowboys outdrew me! :thumbup:
 
Finally put the gun back together again after a surprise visit to my dentist after a BIG ASS chunk of a rear tooth broke off. I'll get a new crown next Monday.
Anyhow, I used some 800 grit paper and gave a very careful polish to the end of the bolt (sear) and put a very tiny additional bend into the bolt spring. The trigger pull seems to be a bit better now.
 
Bolt and sear are not connected. The working end of the trigger is the sear. The engagement surfaces of the trigger and the full cock notch in the hammer, (both the angle and depth of engagement are critical!) along with spring pressure from the mainspring are what determines the trigger pull you feel.
 
Last edited:
Well, you can see that I am not a gunsmith:thumbup: I'll go shoot again next chance I get and see if things are better. One thing for sure, I'm not going to grind or alter anything.
I really do appreciate all the help. It shows that I have a lot to learn.
 
Well, you can see that I am not a gunsmith:thumbup: I'll go shoot again next chance I get and see if things are better. One thing for sure, I'm not going to grind or alter anything.
I really do appreciate all the help. It shows that I have a lot to learn.

Hey well apparently not all "simple" things are as simple as they seem . . . unless you "understand" the "simplicity" of things . . . or the HOW they work, it may be best to ask for help first rather than "figuring out" the "simplicity" of things. Otherwise, everybody would have "perfect" running revolvers!

Mike
 
It is obvious that the gunsmith that worked on this revolver has gone off the "Cliff_"
 
Triggers on single actions all come down to hammer and sear. Something is out of whack if it’s that light.

A couple things worth noting…
1. New guns may have parts that need to wear in. Typically this is due to machining issues such as burrs or rough surfaces. You may have a part that needs attention to let it engage more positively.
2. Old school single actions feel vastly different than other guns. They may feel exceptionally light but actually just be different than what you’re used to. Put a fish scale on it at a minimum and see where it breaks. A full blown trigger gauge is better, but not nearly as common.
 
Well, you can see that I am not a gunsmith:thumbup: I'll go shoot again next chance I get and see if things are better. One thing for sure, I'm not going to grind or alter anything.
I really do appreciate all the help. It shows that I have a lot to learn.
They are simple Cliff… is this a new revolver or used? Any indication it’s been modified? (Buggered up screws, etc)
 
Purchased new in the box from a very reputable mail order dealer. No indication that it's been modified at all. I can seek some local help. I was just hoping that I could find something obvious. I will try to find a scale to test the trigger pull. Maybe it's just me?
 
Triggers are so hard to explain in a forum.

The best thing I can tell you is to look at engagement. Your trigger should rock the hammer back slightly before it breaks. Trigger spring weight plays into it some but the majority of the weight comes from main spring weight plus engagement.
I'm sure there are plenty of YouTubers willing to tell you "how to" but be careful what you decide. Like I said, the most dangerous "setup" is the trigger. It needs to be safe more than anything else . . . for you and others.

Mike
 
Finally put the gun back together again after a surprise visit to my dentist after a BIG ASS chunk of a rear tooth broke off. I'll get a new crown next Monday.
Anyhow, I used some 800 grit paper and gave a very careful polish to the end of the bolt (sear) and put a very tiny additional bend into the bolt spring. The trigger pull seems to be a bit better now.
Same sand paper and a little work in the mirror, some "bondo" you'll save enough money to send it to Goon...:neener:
 
Back
Top