curiosity killed the cat, but I'm curious about progressive .223

[bloominonion]

So, I have yet to actually load up any .223, but I will probably use my Pro1000 to load them when I do. My question is, what lubing is required for .223 progressive loading, and how do you guys go about it? It seems any normal method of case lubing I use would slow things down REALLY bad.

 

[atblis]

It is mandatory for rifle sizing unless you're using something such as a Lee collet neck die (which only neck sizes).

The Hornady one shot works okay for 223. The various Lanolin based spray on lubes also work well.

I am currently headed towards experimenting with a bath type lube operation to lube thousands of cases at a time. Thinking about a wax in acetone.

 

[Walkalong]

I run all the cases through my LNL with only the sizer installed. I lube each case with my fingers as I am putting it in the shell plate. Then I tumble and trim. Then I load them.

 

[bloominonion]

So Walkalong, you don't use lube, and just run it as a two step operation? (once for sizing, once for powder/seating/crimp).

Mainly I ask because I have 500+ brass that need some loading, and I don't want to load that much single stage.

 

[Walkalong]

I lube each case with my fingers as I am putting it in the shell plate.

Added for clarity.

 

[Walkalong]

I put a little RCBS Case Lube II or Imperial on my thumb, index finger & pointer finger of my left hand. As I pick up each case I lube it. It doesn't slow things up much when you get rolling. I have to re-apply lube to the fingers every few cases.

 

[bloominonion]

Apparently I can't read today lol. I have been staring at computer screens too long today.

 

[cfullgraf]

Like Walkalong, I do 223 Remington in two separate operations. I lubricate and resize the brass. Then trim and clean the lubricant off the brass. I process brass shortly after shooting so that I have a relatively small quantity to work with. The brass is stored away for a future loading session.

Once I have enough resized, cleaned and prepared brass on hand, I set up the progressive without the sizer die and load away.

I use RCBS case lubricant on a pad or Imperial Sizing wax on my fingers.

 

[guzzi]

lubing 223 for progressive

I like to reload 223's in quantities of 250. For this, I run the shells through the cleaner/polisher first. Next, they are dumped into a 8 quart stainless mixing bowl for mass lubricating. This lubrication is done by squirting a blob of RCBS Case Lube-2 (the size of a M&M) onto one hand, then rubbing my hands together to disperse the lube onto both hands. Next, I plunge my hands repeatedly into the bowl of brass and mix the brass around until I think they are all lubed. This takes about 30 seconds.

The next step is to re-size and de-prime, then the shells are sent back to the cleaner/polisher for another go-round. Once done with this step, it's reload as usual.

 

[Whiskey11]

The Lee 1000 is the three holer right? If it where me, I would Deprime, Prime, and Size on a single stage in one operation. Then run Powder, Bullet Seat, and FCD (if running a Semi Auto) in the 1000 simply to avoid the 1000's big problem, primer feeding.

I would then just lube cases like I would when loading single stage, put in plastic ziplock bag or plastic container with lid, spray a bunch of Hornady One Shot in it, shake the cases about and make sure they are all lubed up, open the lid on the container or unlock the ziplock and let them "dry" then run them through the FL sizer. Thankfully I pretty much only neck size brass, but for a SA that isn't possible.

I've thought about doing something similar with reloading .45ACP, buying a Lee P1000 and doing Full Size/Deprime and Prime on my Anniversary Single Stage where I can get around the P1000's major fault.

 

[bloominonion]

I have never had a problem with the Pro1k on primers at all. Just make sure to use a bit of graphite in the primer channel and polish it in with a q-tip or something.

So I guess I just have to run it in two batches then.

 

[bloominonion]

So, what do you guys think about the RCBS lube die? It seems like an easy option to keep my fingers clear of the press.

I just saw it in a youtube vid, and it looked like it might work, the only question is, can I re-size on station 2 in the Pro1000 or will it torque around and break something? The station one is right over the top of the ram.

 

[esheato]

Just for comparison purposes on the processes involved...

-Police dirty brass at the range
-Tumble
-Size on my turret press (one case at a time, using RCBS spray lube)
-Tumble again to remove lube
-Trim (Giraud tool, about as fast as possible)
-Swage (Dillon tool...the worst step by far)
-Dump in Dillon (sans size die for prime, charge, seat and crimp)

The actual loading process is quite quick...the brass prep is what slows me down. Considering the tools I'm using, I don't know what else to do to speed things up.

I choose to do it that way because I don't want to drag lubed cases through the casefeeder. IMHO, it's just more crap to clean if everything is covered in lube.

 

[bloominonion]

That was kinda my thought. More lube = more mess, but if I can lube once it is running through the press, then the case feeder and whatnot stays clean.

 

[esheato]

True, but for me and my Dillon 650, cases feed into a fairly snug spot on the shellplate. Getting my gooey fingers in there to swipe the cases in between press strokes would be a PITA and I would never get a good rhythm going...something I prefer when I'm on the progressive.

Also, my wife is currently deployed overseas and with my 3 year old, I have plenty of time in the garage...it's range time that is hard to come by.

Separating the steps into "brass prep" and "loading" makes sense to me.

Also, when I feel like loading, I feel like loading. Dump the brass in, fill the primer tubes and start pulling the handle.

To each his own though...so many different presses and processes. Pick one and run with it. All that matters is bullets on paper anyway.

 

[Mags]

What about trimming guys? Most trimmers use the flash hole so you can't prime till trimmed. I tumble, lube, size/deprime, tumble, trim/chamfer, prime, charge, seat bullet.

I just can't fathom loading rifle on a progressive unless it trimmed and chamfered for me on the press. Out of all those steps only 3 are done on the press. Now pistol loads would be a dream with a progressive.

 

[cfullgraf]

What about trimming guys? Most trimmers use the flash hole so you can't prime till trimmed. .

The only trimmer that i know of that uses the flash hole is the Lee. But, I could be wrong.

The Giraud, Gracey and Possum Hollow index off the shoulder. The lathe type trimmers like Lymand, RCBS or Redding use a pilot in the case mouth to support the case. The base of the case is against a stop.

The L E Wilson trimmer supports the case in a case holder with the base against a stop.

I am not sure about the Dillon press mounted trimmer, but it uses a die arrangement on the press.

I am sure I have not hit all the different styles of trimmers out there.

Personally, I would rather get all the brass trimming out of the case before loading anyway.

 

[Whiskey11]

Generally I deprime and size before trimming and tumbling, so it isn't a huge issue for me to use the Lee Case trimmer. I need one for .45 ACP, but none of my roughly 250 cases needed trimming this last time around.

 

[FullEffect1911]

I use my single stage to size and deprime. I've use Hornady one shot case lube, mainly because I like that it won't contaminate the powder and primers and I don't have to retumble after this step. Just a quick wipe of the outside and I'm happy.

This also gives me a chance to check the length, clean the primer pocket and use a hand priming tool. I am a believer that these steps can help avoid a slam fire.

After all that I use my progressive sans sizing and priming.

 

[nofishbob]

I do a less rigorous procedure for "blasting " .223 ammo that has worked well for me:

- Check case length of fired brass (all mine from last loading, most are still in spec)

-Lube cases and load to completion on a LNL AP. For lube, I use mostly Mobil 1 on a patch, or less frequently, One Shot.

-If I used lube that must be removed, I either wipe the finished rounds with a rag, or tumble them for a while.

Lots of measuring of cases pre and post sizing led me to adopt this method to save time over the superior-for-accuracy method of sizing then trimming.

Good luck!
Bob

 

[Greg Mercurio]

Process for my Dillon 550B. For all calibers that I load on it.

Vibratory clean 2 hours. Corn cob with some walnut shell and Nu-Finish.
Drop about 200 in a plastic bowl
Spray with One-Shot
Toss.
Repeat One-Shot
Toss
Let sit 10 minutes
Load complete
Vibratory clean 30 minutes
Pack

Works fine.

 

[longdayjake]

How long does it take for one shot to dry? The lubes I use dry too fast to allow me to do 200 that way.

 

[FullEffect1911]

How long does it take for one shot to dry? The lubes I use dry too fast to allow me to do 200 that way.

It dries pretty fast, maybe 10-15 minutes depending on how heavy the application is. However it still works as intended once it's dry, though I do use a pretty thorough coating.

 

[Greg Mercurio]

One-Shot is designed to be used after drying. The carrier evaporates leaving the case with lube on it sufficient to resize.

I only use this method with carbide dies for the .223, 9mm, .45 ACP and .44 Mag. I don't believe One-Shot has the film strength to do really serious sizing and non-carbide dies. All other cartridges get done on the Rock Crusher with RCBS lube and pad.

 

[northark147]

It doesn't slow me down much at all. I take another container and roll the brass across a lube pad into it. I then use the container of lubed brass to run through my 550B just as I would pistol ammo.