Cut it or sell it?

Status
Not open for further replies.

LoadedDrum

Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2004
Messages
612
I have a 30" full choke non-vent rib barrel from an old Wingmaster and I am debating either cutting it down to 18.5" and having a bead installed or selling/trading it to get a factory made 18.5" barrel. I only ask because I know that people say not to cut down vent rib barrels but what about non-vent rib barrels? What is your opinion?
 
Cut It, if your sure you won't need it. 30" full choke barrels are very common. Spend the money on a 26" or 28" VR remchoke barrel instead, if you have need of a long barrel for hunting. :)
 
Before you cut it, try to trade the barrel for the one you want. But unless you have another shotgun to hunt with, one day you may wish you had kept that longer barrel to hunt with.
 
Last edited:
I have a 30" full choke non-vent rib barrel from an old Wingmaster and I am debating either cutting it down to 18.5" and having a bead installed or selling/trading it to get a factory made 18.5" barrel. I only ask because I know that people say not to cut down vent rib barrels but what about non-vent rib barrels? What is your opinion?

I was in a similar situation. I cut the barrel I had, and bought one specifically for trap with a proper vent rib. Still happy with the choice.

I didn't even bother to replace the front bead. At HD distances you aren't going to need it (or even be able to see it in dim light). The beauty of the "short" shotgun is that you are going to fire a pattern ... close is good enough!
 
Unless you have the tools you'd need to properly square the muzzle, I'd say sell the whole gun and then buy a new one in the configuration you want. A new barrel costs almost as much as a whole gun, especially if you can find a used one set up like you want.

Contrary to popular belief, you want tight patterns for home defense. Individual pellets can easily be lethal after punching through multiple interior walls, which means you want every single one hitting the bad guy center mass.
 
If you do decide to cut it, be sure to mark the center line of the barrel before you cut it off. Use the existing bead for reference and draw your center line down the top of the barrel. That way, you'll know where to drill for the new bead, should you choose to add one.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
I'd cut it and keep it.

Trade it off?
No way!
Old Wingmasters are much better & slicker guns then the new Express riot-guns Remington is fostering off on the buying public now.

30" Full choke for anything but trap?
No way!
There is very little demand for full choke non-rib barrels, as they are too much choke for most upland hunting with modern shotcup shells.
And you can't use them for waterfowl with steel shot.

If you want a hunting barrel, buy a new 26" or 28" Rem-Choke barrel for maximum flexibility, and steel shot use.

rcmodel
 
Contrary to popular belief, you want tight patterns for home defense. Individual pellets can easily be lethal after punching through multiple interior walls, which means you want every single one hitting the bad guy center mass.

Even out of a true cylinder bore the "pattern" will be tight within HD situations of 10 yards or less.

Just cut it down if you can't find a trade.
 
I do have another 870 with a 30" full choke vent-rib barrel that I use for trap so that is not an issue. I also have a cantilevered rifled slug barrel for hunting (shot is a no-no for deer in IL). I may get a longer barrel with interchangable chokes latter for fowl.

Thanks for the input.
 
Even out of a true cylinder bore the "pattern" will be tight within HD situations of 10 yards or less.

But that's out of a true cylinder bore, not a basement hackjob. It's pretty easy to mess up a muzzle enough to get some crazy patterns, if you don't have the right tools.
 
It is not that hard to cut a Shotgun barrel.
Here is an old trick use duct tape to guide to cut.
Another easy way it to welding/muffler/plumper shop and have them cut it for you
 
If you already have the hunting barrel , then cut the other to what you want !!!!!!!!!
 
I would not use a pipe cutter. If you are talking about the kind the you clamp on and then slip around the pipe to cut it ( line what is used on brake lines)
REASON being that barrel could be distorted by the pressure of the clamping. I have not cut a barrel with a pipe cutter but don't I would try.
 
Re: The pipe cutter: When I took a gunsmithing course several years ago, that is what we were taught to cut barrels. Several passes with the pipe cutter, tightening just a bit on each pass. It makes a beautiful cut with no distortion.

A band saw may make a level cut but you will spend some time dressing it with a round file (inside) and a flat file (outside) to get rid of the distorted metal edges. It would take a very fine blade to make a smooth cut. Muffler shops use course blades where precision is not required.

I'd suggest that you borrow a pipe cutter from a plumber and have at it, gradually tightening on each turn. It will take several passes but it will make a level cut that is already finished when the cut is made.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top