Shortening Shotgun Barrel
- Thread starter RatDrall
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Badger Arms
Member
$40 - $80 depending on the gunsmith. Free if you do it yourself. Not that difficult. Tools alone, if you don't already have them, would be cheaper than the cost a Gunsmith Charges.
oneounceload
member
and, depending on the gun, you might be able to pick up a used factory barrel for the same amount and still have your original barrel.....or you could sell it and pocket the difference
Exactly 18.5 is probably not possible with a vent rib. You will have to cut where the posts are that attach the vent rib. On the ones I have done this means you must choose between 19", 21", or 23" etc.
I have done a few using a hacksaw. I use a square and a file to square up the end of the barrel when finished and use cold blue to reblue the end. I have used the fiberoptic sights that clamp onto the vent rib for a replacement sight. It is a 5 min. job and the only cost is the fiberoptic sight.
On my 1st one I practiced at 23" in case I messed up. I would still have some barrel to work with in case I had to take it to a Smith to have it done over.
I have done a few using a hacksaw. I use a square and a file to square up the end of the barrel when finished and use cold blue to reblue the end. I have used the fiberoptic sights that clamp onto the vent rib for a replacement sight. It is a 5 min. job and the only cost is the fiberoptic sight.
On my 1st one I practiced at 23" in case I messed up. I would still have some barrel to work with in case I had to take it to a Smith to have it done over.
question..
aybody ever patturn buckshot or slug out of a shortened barrell,on a modified h/r i cut to 19"i took a file and squared up the end and smoothed out the hacksaw lines-reinstalled bead,now i have 2 friends tell me since i shortened the barrell,it"ll split at the end if i shoot it..any experiances.
aybody ever patturn buckshot or slug out of a shortened barrell,on a modified h/r i cut to 19"i took a file and squared up the end and smoothed out the hacksaw lines-reinstalled bead,now i have 2 friends tell me since i shortened the barrell,it"ll split at the end if i shoot it..any experiances.
Badger Arms
Member
Your friends are wrong. In fact, it is MORE likely to split at the end before you cut it. Patterning will be identical to any other cylinder bore out there. Grouping (slugs group, shot patterns) will be better with a cut barrel, on average, because a shorter barrel is stiffer. That assumes that your barrel is cut fairly square.
Don't take your friends' advice. You're good.
Don't take your friends' advice. You're good.
mgkdrgn
Member
1-800-bovine-scat
I've done exactly the same thing and put 100 or so rounds of buckshot though it with no problem. Pattern at HD ranges (25' and less) is plenty tight enough (dinner plate size or less) and even.
Steve H
Member
I cut down an old single shot with no rib. I taped the bbl and cut it with a pipe cutter then cleaned up the inside of the cut with a small round file. The pipe cutter give you and just about factory cut look.
oneounceload
member
That would depend on whether or not your barrel is slightly tapered or a fully concentric tube
Badger Arms
Member
Stay away from a PIPE cutter! It will roll the end of the metal in. Hacksaw, file, and sand paper.
highorder
Member
Use a saw, and clean the end up, as Badger said.
41022collector
member
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- Jun 14, 2009
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Only a couple notes here:
1. If you use a hack saw. Just take the time to square the cut up, use a chamfer hand tool and a chamfer stone and not a file to clean it up and create a proper crown. There are even crowning stones avail for a low cost. You can make a decent squaring jig with two pieces of tool steel and two bolts and a V cut in each square of steel, clamp it to the barrel * not too tight* and cut to the right side of the square with the barrel muzzle pointed to the right. I usually use a carbide hack saw, just makes for an easier start and a better cut.
note * cut the vent 1/8" longer than the barrel so you have enough to finish the vent end right if you cut the vent as a non post area. Just finish it back so the job looks pro.
2. DO NOT USE A PIPE CUTTER. It will swage the barrel where the rollers contact the barrel as well as roll the end piece in and you will in effect create an OVER FULL choke condition, if you shoot slugs, steel shot, flechettes and the like through it, the end could possibly fracture and become a mini grenade. I have seen it or I would not warn against it. Plus a pipe cutter is not practicle with a rib or vented rib.
3. Take the time to measure the ID to 3" inside, check the Brownells site for proper choke Vs. type of ammo and gauge, then spend the couple bucks for the shotgun bore hone and do the job right. When you hone, either use the hand hone with the stabilizer in the kit or use a decent drill press or mill/lathe so you do not create a wobbled honing job.
4. If you cut the vent where there is no post, use silver solder to reattach and seat the vent rib. You will have to make a short post piece for the end finish or ramp the Vent Down to the end of the barrel, file and stone, solder and polish, then finish with a good bluing agent. You of course would put the bead at the level part of the rib before the bend angel down. Also rem, you will have to adjust the height of the bead due to the shorter sight radius or you will pattern high or low, depending on how deep you set the bead.
There are even sight and bead install kits that make the job easy and look pro.
Brownells should have all the items needed for a safe and decent looking barrel cut.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/GunTech/links.aspx
Hope this helps
Happy Cutting
Mike
1. If you use a hack saw. Just take the time to square the cut up, use a chamfer hand tool and a chamfer stone and not a file to clean it up and create a proper crown. There are even crowning stones avail for a low cost. You can make a decent squaring jig with two pieces of tool steel and two bolts and a V cut in each square of steel, clamp it to the barrel * not too tight* and cut to the right side of the square with the barrel muzzle pointed to the right. I usually use a carbide hack saw, just makes for an easier start and a better cut.
note * cut the vent 1/8" longer than the barrel so you have enough to finish the vent end right if you cut the vent as a non post area. Just finish it back so the job looks pro.
2. DO NOT USE A PIPE CUTTER. It will swage the barrel where the rollers contact the barrel as well as roll the end piece in and you will in effect create an OVER FULL choke condition, if you shoot slugs, steel shot, flechettes and the like through it, the end could possibly fracture and become a mini grenade. I have seen it or I would not warn against it. Plus a pipe cutter is not practicle with a rib or vented rib.
3. Take the time to measure the ID to 3" inside, check the Brownells site for proper choke Vs. type of ammo and gauge, then spend the couple bucks for the shotgun bore hone and do the job right. When you hone, either use the hand hone with the stabilizer in the kit or use a decent drill press or mill/lathe so you do not create a wobbled honing job.
4. If you cut the vent where there is no post, use silver solder to reattach and seat the vent rib. You will have to make a short post piece for the end finish or ramp the Vent Down to the end of the barrel, file and stone, solder and polish, then finish with a good bluing agent. You of course would put the bead at the level part of the rib before the bend angel down. Also rem, you will have to adjust the height of the bead due to the shorter sight radius or you will pattern high or low, depending on how deep you set the bead.
There are even sight and bead install kits that make the job easy and look pro.
Brownells should have all the items needed for a safe and decent looking barrel cut.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/GunTech/links.aspx
Hope this helps
Happy Cutting
Mike
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