CVA Flintlock followed me Home

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WALKERs210

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Nov 26, 2009
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Heart of Dixie - Alabama
Have been trying to decide about whether or not to build something from a kit or just stay with the revolvers. I had been offered a CVA Hawkens by a older gentleman that had built this CVA several years ago and never fired it, well it followed me home. Had an issue with the frizzen spring being too stiff which would not let the frizzen open to expose the pan. After minor work on the spring it works like a champ, now just got to get the right size flints and real BP for it. Pictures are not the best but I never claimed to be a photographer.
 
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Thanks for the complements on the rifle, I do have a question that came to mind. In regards to the correct or best steps to loading a flintlock or for that mater any of the muzzle loaders. I have watch TV shows dealing with black powder firearms and the ones on the show are usually some expert in one field or the other, while some pour the main charge and then set the ball first before priming the pan others have shown priming the pan first then the charge and ball. My thoughts or concerns on priming the pan first goes back to one of my first bp rifles where I was showing that when the lock was in half cock position it would not fire- it did! With a flintlock in half-cock position I don't think there would be enough travel distance to produce a spark but every time I think I get in trouble. So simply put should the pan be primed before main charge or after.
 
NEVER, as in never ever, prime the pan before loading the main charge. Would you cap a percussion rifle before loading the bore?
 
Mykeal that is exactly what I was thinking but had to ask just to put my mind at ease that I was doing it in proper steps. Like I said I have seen so called EX- SPURTS on some of those TV shows prime first the load main charge, which in my eyes was a disaster waiting to happen.
 
I am simply going by memory from a long time ago, but I think 1700 musket drills taught soldiers to load the prime first and then the rest of the powder down the bore. Made it easier to drill and load using paper cartridges. Certainly not a good idea for common everyday muzzleloading.
 
Guess I must be living right or just plain lucky. I knew for best performance with the flint lock that real BP in the pan, just was not looking forward to buying more than I would use in my lifetime. This morning I decided to go to a local flea-market just to get out of the house, there in the second booth was two 1lb cans of BP, 1st 3F and the 2nd 4f. The 4f had about three oz out of it and the 3f was still sealed. $10.00 and I was a happy camper, now waiting to see if the rain is coming or not heading out back to do my testing. Thanks everyone for all your great info.
 
Get yourself down to the local convenience store and buy a lottery ticket, fast, before that luck runs out.

RW era soldiers were taught to prime first because they used powder from the paper cartridge to prime. They cut, or bit, open the cartridge, primed, then poured the rest of the powder into the bore, then loaded the ball.
 
Please forgive me for sounding like a 6yr old that just got a bag of candy. But WOW is about the only word that I can use without being censured! Managed to get to the back of property before it really started raining and only got a few shots in, now I'm thinking of selling or trading off my T/C Renegade percussion rifle. Well only for a 36cal but I had forgotten the feeling you get from touching off a rock like this. I do believe that if I died right now the undertake would take a week to get this smile off my face. Sorry for all the giddiness
 
Congrats... but... if your Renegade shoots anything like my .54 does... you might want to hang onto it. Hmmm... a .36 rifle WOULD be a hoot too.
 
Looks like you're going to need to add one more accessory to your kit bag - a tube of tooth whitener...
 
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