Cylinder latch sticking forward on S&W K frame

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grimjaw

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The cylinder latch on my S&W 64 has been sticking forward lately. I have to push it back to get it in the correct position to lock the cylinder most times. Does it just need to be lubed or could something more serious be wrong?

jmm
 
Swing out the cylinder and see if the latch still sticks. You might have a sprung yoke or bent yoke barrel. but I suspect the problem is fouling or a scrap of lead is caught somewhere in the system. I would start by having someone disassemble and clean the cylinder sub-assembly, especially the center pin, and if that doesn't work it's time to pop the sideplate and see what might be found.
 
Old Fuff, thanks. It's just plain sticky, regardless of whether or not the cylinder is out. I tried just a little lubricant (FP10), but it hasn't seemed to help much. I've looked behind that side plate before, and the less I touch the internals, the happier the revolver will be. Don't suppose anybody knows a quality gunsmith in Washington state?

jmm
 
Is it the cylinder latch that sticking, or the center pin in the cylinder sub-assembly?

It may not do any good to lubricate everything until the fouling, goo or dirt is cleaned out first. If you don't want to disassemble anything, remove the stocks, and then spray out the insides and down in front of the hammer after you cock it, with Gun-Scrubber or something similar. Follow this with your lublicant and see if it helps.
 
The center pin feels fine, doesn't seem to be sticking. After swinging the cylinder in to lock, I have to push the cylinder latch back to lock the cylinder in. If the cylinder is swing out, I get more than normal resistance when trying to push the cylinder latch back. I have a S&W 67 for comparison, and it's very smooth.

I'll pick up some Gun Scrubber and give your suggestion a try. Much thanks.

jmm
 
When you push the cylinder back in the pressure from the center pin is what pushes the latch backwards. Something is causing the latch to bind, and I think what it needs is a good cleaning. Spray the cleaner in from behind after you remove the stocks, and down the hammer slot. If this doesn't work someone is going to have to pop the sideplate and go in and remove the hammer and trigger, and thereafter clean and re-lubricate everything.

Which would be a good idea anyway. If I had this revolver a total strip, inspection, clean and lube job would be in order.

Oh, and if you had purchased Jerry Kuhnhausen's book: "The S&W Revolver, A Shop Manual" from Brownells (www.Brownells.com) you could easily do the work yourself, and the savings on gunsmithing charges would likely have paid for the book, and then some. (hint) :D
 
Take off the side plate and have a look at what's causing it. Likely a busted or misplaced spring or crud.
 
Sunray:

Take off the side plate and have a look at what's causing it.

I don't think that grimjaw want's to go that route. He previously said:

I've looked behind that side plate before, and the less I touch the internals, the happier the revolver will be. Don't suppose anybody knows a quality gunsmith in Washington state? :uhoh:

Unfortunately I don't know any gunsmiths in Washington State, but Smith & Wesson's service department is always available. :)
 
I don't think that grimjaw want's to go that route.

RE: repair, actually, I don't have a problem with it. I just didn't know where to look for the proper method of doing so. Fuff's book recommendation will help. I enjoy being able to service my own gear. I'm just unfamiliar with what is and is not normal, and would like to have someone with experience verify that all is operating safely. It's a firearm, not a computer. If I mess something up the consequences can be, shall we say, explosive? ;) Just trying to exercise caution where it's due, and acknowledging my newbie status.

Come to think of it, I've had computer repairs be explosive. :eek:

jmm
 
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