So guys what is the key to keeping my cylinder from locking up after cleaning? TwicE now the day after cleaning my cylinder pin is rusted and my cylinder is locking up. I clean using hot soapy water just like i have for years. And i use rem oil on the whole thing when finished. This is my first bp revolver and i dont wana ruin it. Please help guys.
Cylinder locking up
- Thread starter FosterEDC
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Are you certain it's thoroughly dried first?
I like to use Ballistol, which I know will mix with water. When the water evaporates it leaves just the Ballistol behind. I've not had a problem. But it's also not a great long term rust preventative I read.
I like to use Ballistol, which I know will mix with water. When the water evaporates it leaves just the Ballistol behind. I've not had a problem. But it's also not a great long term rust preventative I read.
Willie Sutton
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Rem Oil?
Toss that stuff over near your smokeless powder arms, buy some Ballistol, and enjoy.
Willie
.
Toss that stuff over near your smokeless powder arms, buy some Ballistol, and enjoy.
Willie
.
Patocazador
Member
Get a bottle of 70+% of rubbing alcohol and after drying it, wipe it with the alcohol and run an alcohol-wetted patch through the chambers and barrel.
Then air dry and finally wipe down with Barricade or Ballistol.
I like Barricade for short-term storage and RIG for long-term storage.
Then air dry and finally wipe down with Barricade or Ballistol.
I like Barricade for short-term storage and RIG for long-term storage.
Willie Sutton
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In the mean time i freed it up with some 3 in 1.
This might be the worst stuff in the world to use...
Avoid petroleum products like the plague wherever combustion products will be found in these things. BP fouling and petroleum products don't mix well.
Glad you freed it, now keep it running smoothly with Ballistol. Mix it 10% with water as a cleaning agent (it'll look like milk) and use it straight as a post cleaning wipe-down.
Willie
.
This might be the worst stuff in the world to use...
Avoid petroleum products like the plague wherever combustion products will be found in these things. BP fouling and petroleum products don't mix well.
Glad you freed it, now keep it running smoothly with Ballistol. Mix it 10% with water as a cleaning agent (it'll look like milk) and use it straight as a post cleaning wipe-down.
Willie
.
I actually put all of the pieces of my revolvers in the dishwasher on the dry cycle before oiling them. At times I might get a little flash rust, but it wipes off easily.
With my side lock I just run a dry patch followed by a Ballistol patch. If it works on the rifle it ought to work on the pistols too, though there's certainly more nooks and crannies on a cap n ball...
With my side lock I just run a dry patch followed by a Ballistol patch. If it works on the rifle it ought to work on the pistols too, though there's certainly more nooks and crannies on a cap n ball...
whughett
Member
Just a suggestion but if the gun is a Remy with that small base pin bore through the cylinder perhaps you are not removing the water/moisture in that bore hole. I use high pressure air to blow all water and moisture from the gun parts after cleaning.
Ballistol is great stuff but pricey and often hard to fine at the LGS, whereas TC bore butter is available any where front stuffer equipment is sold. Bore butter smells better also.
. I do use both, but the ballistol is mixed with water 75/25 (moose milk) and used as a spray for quick cleaning at the range and small parts at home. Frames cylinders and barrels are cleaned with soap and water and blow dried then lubed with bore butter.
JMO
Ballistol is great stuff but pricey and often hard to fine at the LGS, whereas TC bore butter is available any where front stuffer equipment is sold. Bore butter smells better also.
. I do use both, but the ballistol is mixed with water 75/25 (moose milk) and used as a spray for quick cleaning at the range and small parts at home. Frames cylinders and barrels are cleaned with soap and water and blow dried then lubed with bore butter.JMO
Contrary to popular belief you can use automotive or lithium lubes or Lubriplate on the cylinder pin and the back of the cylinder. However, to keep the fouling soft on the pin I do put a drop of olive oil or ballistol on the front of the cylinder face where it rubs on the frame and jiggle the cylinder to work it down onto the cylinder pin between loadings. A singel drop of BP solvent will also do the trick. Do it after seating the balls so the solvent doesn't get into the chambers.
I suspect you are not getting all the water based BP cleaner out of the pin canal. When cleaning I slide the pin back and forth to work fouling out of the pin hole while wiping off the pin and then once it is clean I smear grease onto the pin before installing the cylinder before putting it away.
I suspect you are not getting all the water based BP cleaner out of the pin canal. When cleaning I slide the pin back and forth to work fouling out of the pin hole while wiping off the pin and then once it is clean I smear grease onto the pin before installing the cylinder before putting it away.
Panzerschwein
member
I like to use ballistol and water for this type of cleaning. Ballistol emulsifies with water and when the water dries you get a nice thin layer of 'stol left beyond for the purposes of lubricosity and preservatorialization.
I reckon never use crisco on your BP revolvers use lard or a mix of lard and beeswax
Patocazador
Member
"Bore butter smells better also."
Boy, that's a matter of opinion. I hate the smell of that stuff. I can substitute a lard/beeswax mixture for Bore Butter and save $$ and get just as good or better results.
Boy, that's a matter of opinion. I hate the smell of that stuff. I can substitute a lard/beeswax mixture for Bore Butter and save $$ and get just as good or better results.
Crawdad1
Member
That may be your mistake right there. After cleaning in water you have to get that water up and off the metal. I started shooting revolvers in '77 and never heard of Ballistol (If it existed back then) so I always used WD40. Out of the water a quick wipe down then all metal parts completely blasted with WD40. Don't spare the WD40, they'll make more.
But, more and more now, people are recommending the Ballistol.
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NCWanderer
Member
I don't allow WD-40 anywhere near my guns.....not even in the same room.
Willie Sutton
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^^ It's a good water displacer, and if followed by a *lubricant* has it's place in *drying* BP stuff after cleaning.
With that said, using HOT water to wash, letting the steel come up to temperature, and then air drying works just as well if not better.
The old way of boiling your revolver in the coffee pot over the camp stove has a lot of merit.
Willie
,
With that said, using HOT water to wash, letting the steel come up to temperature, and then air drying works just as well if not better.
The old way of boiling your revolver in the coffee pot over the camp stove has a lot of merit.
Willie
,
DD4lifeusmc
Member
Cylinder lock up
I PMed you but:........................
Use good rubbing alcohol the right way, there will be no rust and no need to fire up the oven or dishwasher or what not And it will clean the gun.
150 years ago some of those weren't invented and not practical.
Just do a good job drying with a dry cotton patch or cloth.
Some cleaning patches are synthetic and don't absorb water worth a crap.
Good old flannel shirt makes a good towel and cut it into patches as needed.
Use it to dry the pin hole too, or a q tip.
Never use a petroleum based product with a BP gun. Use it, but make sure you completely remove it again before shooting it.
Bore butter is ok for wiping down, and lubing pin holes and internals.
Or better yet, make your own with beeawax and lard / tallow.
Adjust the ratios for the intended use.
Thin as a lube for rotating and moving parts and for PRB patches.
Thicker for filling lube grooves in a conical or even as an overball lube for those of you that still do that needlessly.
I PMed you but:........................
Use good rubbing alcohol the right way, there will be no rust and no need to fire up the oven or dishwasher or what not And it will clean the gun.
150 years ago some of those weren't invented and not practical.
Just do a good job drying with a dry cotton patch or cloth.
Some cleaning patches are synthetic and don't absorb water worth a crap.
Good old flannel shirt makes a good towel and cut it into patches as needed.
Use it to dry the pin hole too, or a q tip.
Never use a petroleum based product with a BP gun. Use it, but make sure you completely remove it again before shooting it.
Bore butter is ok for wiping down, and lubing pin holes and internals.
Or better yet, make your own with beeawax and lard / tallow.
Adjust the ratios for the intended use.
Thin as a lube for rotating and moving parts and for PRB patches.
Thicker for filling lube grooves in a conical or even as an overball lube for those of you that still do that needlessly.
whughett
Member
Comes in two flavors, Wintergreen and Pine. Never tried the pine but do like all things wintergreen.
Crawdad1
Member
I agree Will, WD40 has to be followed by a lubricant.
Plus it gives me some peace of mind also. Knowing something is getting up underneath all that water.
Last edited:
totallyeftup
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Apply food-grade phosphoric acid, you can get it at a hydroponic store, then gun or sewing machine oil
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