CZ 452 Trigger Job

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Sako Shooter

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I need to remove creep and lighten the CZ 452 trigger on my new Ultralux 22lr. I know there are numerous options but am looking for opinions.

The way I see it, there is the:

YoDave kit (or similar kit with tubes and springs);

the homemade job with a shim glued onto the sear and a hardware store (lighter) spring,

or a replacement trigger such as Rifle Basix or Timney.

I'm also thinking about letting my gunsmith work with the existing trigger and spring (which I think is the best option). For those that have been through this, what's your opinion?
 
1. Anything involving Glue & shims has no place in any trigger assembly.

2. A replacement trigger such as Rifle Basix or Timney would be a safe way to go.

I'm also thinking about letting my gunsmith work with the existing trigger and spring
3. Ding, Ding, Ding!! We have a weiner!

rc
 
What's the pull weight on yours? I have two and they're both within an ounce or two of 3.5lbs with short travel and a nice break.
 
The stock trigger is adjustable so make sure that you've got it set at its lightest setting. When I first got my UL the trigger was quite stiff. Lowering the spring tension helped quite a lot without any aftermarket kit.
 
Neither....Get an old collapsible radio antenna, cut a shim out, of it to slip on the front sear roll pin, then cut about 2 coils off the trigger spring....I have done over a dozen CZ rimfires like this with good results. I can do one in about 10 minutes.
 
In my opinion your money is wasted with an aftermarket trigger if you have any mechanical ability.

I have done several with Fastenal springs 159-A, 160-A, 161-A, and 162-A. 159-A is the lightest, and will give you between 8 oz and a pound. I also have adjustable sears in mine. The sear is not always needed. I have a Brno #4 with only a 159-A spring that gives me a trigger that is 8-10 ozs, no creep, and passes the bump test.
 
I have six 452s and five of them needed nothing more than an aftermarket spring in order to have a very nice, light, completely creep-free trigger. It's a luck of the draw that you might get a 452 that needs a little more attention. My Ultra Lux might end up needing more work to take out all of the creep, but I need to put a few more rounds down it first because 452 triggers are widely known to get noticeably better with a few hundred rounds or so of use. On all of my guns I used the ACE Hardware #144 spring with the adjuster nut set at the lightest setting on all but my Scout which is shot mostly by my young kids (left that one a little firmer). You should definitely start with a spring, which will almost always improve the trigger dramatically (it will certainly lighten it), and will most likely remove the creep. If it doesn't remove the creep, shoot the gun a few hundred times, or move on to one of the more drastic methods such as the so-called poor man's trigger job, or Yo Dave. Some of the Fastenal springs that bamajoey mentioned will let you go lighter than the ACE #144 spring.

Check out the threads here on 452 triggers: http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=234957
 
Thanks for all the responses. I'm going to let my smith work it over as I have concerns about safety.
 
I have the YoDave kit. I put it in my Trainer and it made a world of difference. The YoDave kit also lets you install components in up to 4 rifles. This was a selling point for me as I don't plan on having just one 452.
 
yodave kit red shim and take the nut off the strut gave me a creep free sub 1lb pull. put the nut back on and I got 1-2lbs creep free.

It's a very simple trigger. I would certainly go the route of shimming and jb weld before I started in on sears. I trust a reduced engagement stock sear a lot more than a gunsmith with a file unless I know that gunsmith and his experience with that particular firearm.

(If I was a gunsmith I would install the yodave kit and charge you 65+ bucks.)
 
If you lived close to me, I would do your trigger for free. If it made you feel better, I would wear a gunsmith hat while doing it.
 
eric brooks, if he is still in business -- he shipped rather slowly
but for ~$25 his is the best. you choose the take-up and the
ounces to fire...glass rod crisp.
I cupped a washer and floated the bbl; my Super Brno stays with the best of them -- independent of price.
your test is to find the best ammo for your gun

mine loves green tag and federal value box for plinking will keep a golf ball
moving past 75 yards.
 
eric brooks, if he is still in business -- he shipped rather slowly
but for ~$25 his is the best. you choose the take-up and the
ounces to fire...glass rod crisp.
I cupped a washer and floated the bbl; my Super Brno stays with the best of them -- independent of price.
your test is to find the best ammo for your gun

mine loves green tag and federal value box for plinking will keep a golf ball
moving past 75 yards.

Yeah......I am still waiting on a ship or a refund from about 6 years ago.......
 
Sako Shooter;

I'm also among the nuts in the CZ ward. There's nothing at all unsafe about using the YoDave kit & doing the trigger yourself. It isn't rocket science, tensor calculus, or even as hard as figurin' out wimmen! You can do it.

900F
 
The YoDave kit is a safe and solid trigger modification -- but if you don't feel comfortable doing your own trigger work, then it's certainly your call.

But from personal experience, it's not hard to instal the kitl, and if you don't get it quite right on the first try, then it's also very easy to swap out for a different bushing or spring, or just restore your rifle to the factory stock trigger and then hand it off to a gunsmith.

Worst case scenario, your out, what?, $25 bucks but with a bit more experience? It would be a good thing for any gun lover to at least get a decent set of screw drivers, hex wrenches, punches, and a torque driver, and to begin to learn to do a few basic things on your own firearms, IMO.
 
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