CZ 75 Modifications
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chris in va
Member
I swapped out my hammer spring for one a couple pounds lighter, made quite a difference in pull effort. Extractor spring, mag springs. I also flattened the mag brake since the mag wouldn't drop free.
daysleeprx
Member
CZ SP-01: Full action job, recrown barrel, polish feed ramp, polish and contour chamber, replaced recoil spring with a Wolff 14 lb, replaced extractor spring with Wolff XP spring, replaced mainspring with Wolff 17lb. This gun was done by Teddy Jacobson.
CZ 75B SA: Full action job, hard sear, competition hammer, competition rear and fiber optic front sight. Going to re-spring everything with Wolff springs (just something I do with any new gun; I just got this one last week) once my order gets here. This gun was done by Jim Miossi.
CZ 75B SA: Full action job, hard sear, competition hammer, competition rear and fiber optic front sight. Going to re-spring everything with Wolff springs (just something I do with any new gun; I just got this one last week) once my order gets here. This gun was done by Jim Miossi.
1 old 0311
member
Contact Angus at www.ghostholster.com He is a gunsmith, shooter on the factory CZ team, and World class shooter.
CZ triggers can be lightened by eliminating the hammer camming, you will notice the hammer moves backwards as you pull the trigger. If your a tinkerer, you can lessen the positive angle on the hammer where the sear contacts, and cut the hooks down a bit. My trigger is under 4#, with just a little work. Check on the CZ fourm, for names of good smiths, if you dont feel up to it. The gritty trigger will break in pretty fast while shooting,and you may just like it, without any work. Enjoy your new CZ!
(click on the link)
The CZ Forum
The CZ Forum
Gary G23
Member
On all my CZ's I:
1. Put in a Wolff extractor spring
2. Put in a Wolff hammer spring (normally 16# for competition and 17# for carry)
3. Flatten the mag break so the mag will drop free
4. Put on Meprolight night sights
5. Put on factory CZ rubber grips
6. Change the recoil spring if it needs it (normally a Wolff 16#)
My CZ-75 SA 9mm has been tricked out by Miossi Gun Works with an Angus hammer and trigger, a Miossi hard sear, and a beveled mag well.
1. Put in a Wolff extractor spring
2. Put in a Wolff hammer spring (normally 16# for competition and 17# for carry)
3. Flatten the mag break so the mag will drop free
4. Put on Meprolight night sights
5. Put on factory CZ rubber grips
6. Change the recoil spring if it needs it (normally a Wolff 16#)
My CZ-75 SA 9mm has been tricked out by Miossi Gun Works with an Angus hammer and trigger, a Miossi hard sear, and a beveled mag well.
HorseSoldier
Member
The only major internal modification I've made to any of my CZs was putting in a steel guide rod on my P-01. I've found the triggers on all of mine to have gotten increasingly smoother with higher round counts.
Gary G23
Member
Why Won't My Magazine Drop Free? Why Won't My Magazine Drop Free? (aka What Is a Magazine Brake?)
Often, new owners of the modern production CZ pistols are concerned that their magazines seem to hang up after pushing the mag release. The magazine drops for roughly an inch or more, then stops. At this point, the magazine is easily removed by hand. This should occur even with a fully loaded magazine.
This feature of the CZ line is caused by the magazine brake, a slightly bent piece of metal located behind the magazine inside the grip frame. The magazine brake is part #24 in the current CZ 75 series manual illustration. As the asterisk by this part in the illustration indicates, these parts "differ according to versions" (page 25). In other words, a few models have a flat, rather than bent, magazine brake. These models (i.e. 75B SA, 85 Combat, etc.) allow magazines to drop free in their stock configuration.
Why Have the Magazine Brake in the First Place?
The original concept of the CZ 75/85 series is a service pistol suitable for military or police use. (This is also true of most of the other modern production CZ pistols derived from them.) In particular, the CZ 75 is respected as a handgun suitable for the harshest environmental and combat conditions.
As such, the designers felt that magazine retention was critical. Without at least one functioning magazine, a semi-auto pistol becomes a largely worthless, breech-loading single shot weapon. The magazine brake ensures that magazines are not ejected accidentally, lost, or rendered inoperative by being dropped in mud, sand, etc. In combat conditions, magazines are critical, because additional ones are not normally available.
Unfortunately, the various militaries' requirements for a reliable combat handgun do not always meet the standards of civilian shooters. Most CCW techniques, shooting sports (i.e. IPSC, IDPA, etc.), and individual instructors emphasize the importance of rapid reloads. The magazine brake does significantly increase the time involved, since the magazine must be manipulated in some way, even if merely allowing it to drop free. Furthermore, the CZ magazine brake is unusual; few other design offers a similar feature. As such, many civilian owners do not care for the magazine brake and want their magazines to drop free.
How Can I Make My Magazines Drop Free?
There are several methods:
1) Obtain and install the alternate part #24, usually known as the "flat" magazine brake. This is the part found on the 75B SA, 85 Combat, etc. (These are available from CZ-USA.) This is fairly easy to do. Drift the pins, which are sometimes very loose already, and slide the brake free. Install the new brake and slide the pins back into place.
2) Bend the magazine brake while it is still in place. After removing the grips, gently bend the brake backwards (towards the mainspring) with a pair of pliers or a similar tool. The idea is to decrease how much of the metal makes contact with the magazine. This is probably the most popular and easiest solution. The brake is thin and relatively brittle, so be very careful.
3) Bend the magazine brake after removing it from the grip frame. This is essentially the same as #2, but the risk of breaking the part is somewhat reduced. This enables you to flatten the brake by placing a book or a similar light weight on the part for a few hours.
4) Remove the magazine brake entirely. This is a quick fix, but it has some disadvantages. Once the brake is removed, it is no longer present to guide the magazine smoothly into place. It is possible for the magazine to hang up on the main spring or the grip screws. With practice, it will become a non-issue, but it may cause some problems in the meantime. Also, the magazine no longer has the benefit of the brake holding it in place during firing, normal use, etc. This last concern may not be legitimate, but it did occur to me. (Note that CZ uses a "flat" brake, rather than no brake on the drop free models.)
5) Tighten the metal loop at the top of the magazine brake. According to people that have tried this method, the risk of breaking the part is fairly high, but it is a more permanent solution. Drift the top pin, freeing the brake. Using needle nose pliers, tighten the metal loop through which the pin fits. This will effectively shorten the magazine brake, which prevents it from making enough contact to retain the magazine. The advantage of this method is that the brake can no longer flex back into its old position.
6) Replace the brake with another piece of metal. A few members have actually made their own flat brakes, which has been a satisfactory solution for them. Obviously, this requires a bit more effort than the other suggestions!
Some Parting Thoughts
I don't shoot in competition, and I actually like the magazine brake. I mention this merely because I seem to be a minority of one! At any rate, I bought a 9mm CZ 75B SA a couple of years ago, and I was dismayed to find that this model had the flat magazine brake. I would constantly forget that the magazines drop free on this model, and I got tired of picking them up.
I actually bent a flat brake using the reverse of method #2. This seems to work perfectly well, but I would use a conventional (bent) magazine brake as a guide. The flat brakes are every bit as thin and brittle as the bent ones, and the reference point may prevent you from overdoing it.
Good luck!
Often, new owners of the modern production CZ pistols are concerned that their magazines seem to hang up after pushing the mag release. The magazine drops for roughly an inch or more, then stops. At this point, the magazine is easily removed by hand. This should occur even with a fully loaded magazine.
This feature of the CZ line is caused by the magazine brake, a slightly bent piece of metal located behind the magazine inside the grip frame. The magazine brake is part #24 in the current CZ 75 series manual illustration. As the asterisk by this part in the illustration indicates, these parts "differ according to versions" (page 25). In other words, a few models have a flat, rather than bent, magazine brake. These models (i.e. 75B SA, 85 Combat, etc.) allow magazines to drop free in their stock configuration.
Why Have the Magazine Brake in the First Place?
The original concept of the CZ 75/85 series is a service pistol suitable for military or police use. (This is also true of most of the other modern production CZ pistols derived from them.) In particular, the CZ 75 is respected as a handgun suitable for the harshest environmental and combat conditions.
As such, the designers felt that magazine retention was critical. Without at least one functioning magazine, a semi-auto pistol becomes a largely worthless, breech-loading single shot weapon. The magazine brake ensures that magazines are not ejected accidentally, lost, or rendered inoperative by being dropped in mud, sand, etc. In combat conditions, magazines are critical, because additional ones are not normally available.
Unfortunately, the various militaries' requirements for a reliable combat handgun do not always meet the standards of civilian shooters. Most CCW techniques, shooting sports (i.e. IPSC, IDPA, etc.), and individual instructors emphasize the importance of rapid reloads. The magazine brake does significantly increase the time involved, since the magazine must be manipulated in some way, even if merely allowing it to drop free. Furthermore, the CZ magazine brake is unusual; few other design offers a similar feature. As such, many civilian owners do not care for the magazine brake and want their magazines to drop free.
How Can I Make My Magazines Drop Free?
There are several methods:
1) Obtain and install the alternate part #24, usually known as the "flat" magazine brake. This is the part found on the 75B SA, 85 Combat, etc. (These are available from CZ-USA.) This is fairly easy to do. Drift the pins, which are sometimes very loose already, and slide the brake free. Install the new brake and slide the pins back into place.
2) Bend the magazine brake while it is still in place. After removing the grips, gently bend the brake backwards (towards the mainspring) with a pair of pliers or a similar tool. The idea is to decrease how much of the metal makes contact with the magazine. This is probably the most popular and easiest solution. The brake is thin and relatively brittle, so be very careful.
3) Bend the magazine brake after removing it from the grip frame. This is essentially the same as #2, but the risk of breaking the part is somewhat reduced. This enables you to flatten the brake by placing a book or a similar light weight on the part for a few hours.
4) Remove the magazine brake entirely. This is a quick fix, but it has some disadvantages. Once the brake is removed, it is no longer present to guide the magazine smoothly into place. It is possible for the magazine to hang up on the main spring or the grip screws. With practice, it will become a non-issue, but it may cause some problems in the meantime. Also, the magazine no longer has the benefit of the brake holding it in place during firing, normal use, etc. This last concern may not be legitimate, but it did occur to me. (Note that CZ uses a "flat" brake, rather than no brake on the drop free models.)
5) Tighten the metal loop at the top of the magazine brake. According to people that have tried this method, the risk of breaking the part is fairly high, but it is a more permanent solution. Drift the top pin, freeing the brake. Using needle nose pliers, tighten the metal loop through which the pin fits. This will effectively shorten the magazine brake, which prevents it from making enough contact to retain the magazine. The advantage of this method is that the brake can no longer flex back into its old position.
6) Replace the brake with another piece of metal. A few members have actually made their own flat brakes, which has been a satisfactory solution for them. Obviously, this requires a bit more effort than the other suggestions!
Some Parting Thoughts
I don't shoot in competition, and I actually like the magazine brake. I mention this merely because I seem to be a minority of one! At any rate, I bought a 9mm CZ 75B SA a couple of years ago, and I was dismayed to find that this model had the flat magazine brake. I would constantly forget that the magazines drop free on this model, and I got tired of picking them up.
I actually bent a flat brake using the reverse of method #2. This seems to work perfectly well, but I would use a conventional (bent) magazine brake as a guide. The flat brakes are every bit as thin and brittle as the bent ones, and the reference point may prevent you from overdoing it.
Good luck!
Cliff47
Member
My CZ75B is pretty much stock from the box, but I have gilded the lily just a bit by: 1) replacing the stock grips with Hogue half-checkered cocobolo thin grips, 2) replaced the stock sights with CZ tritium low-profile sights, and 3) replaced the stock recoil rod with a unit from EFK FireDragon (https://www.efkfiredragon.com) that acts like a shock absorber in a car (as a shooting buddy said: You can't get away from recoil, but you can manage it).
The pistol is Dead On Accurate with anything I want to feed it, and reliable.
The pistol is Dead On Accurate with anything I want to feed it, and reliable.
MikeRussell
Member
Let's see...
CZ75 SP01
--recut sear angle and hammer hook angles
--removed FPB and trimmed FPBL into a spacer
--polished all action surfaces that make contact
--polished slide rails (completely useless, but I was bored)
--polished feed ramp
--polished breach face and bevelled bottom
--11# recoil spring
--15# main spring with 2 coils cut off
--extra power extractor spring
--CZ thin aluminum grips
--CZ competition rear and FO front sights
--skateboard tape on front & backstraps, grips, and just forward of slide stop (for "power steering")
Keep in mind, I shoot USPSA with this pistol, it's not a carry or HD pistol. The ammo I run through it are my own reloads that make around 130PF (124gr plated bullet at 1050fps).
CZ75 SP01
--recut sear angle and hammer hook angles
--removed FPB and trimmed FPBL into a spacer
--polished all action surfaces that make contact
--polished slide rails (completely useless, but I was bored)
--polished feed ramp
--polished breach face and bevelled bottom
--11# recoil spring
--15# main spring with 2 coils cut off
--extra power extractor spring
--CZ thin aluminum grips
--CZ competition rear and FO front sights
--skateboard tape on front & backstraps, grips, and just forward of slide stop (for "power steering")
Keep in mind, I shoot USPSA with this pistol, it's not a carry or HD pistol. The ammo I run through it are my own reloads that make around 130PF (124gr plated bullet at 1050fps).
MikeRussell
Member
photo to go with my last post...
wally
Member
+1 to Angus at www.ghostholster.com
Very easy to do business with. Only thing I've done to my CZ75 is add one of the red fiber optic front sights I got from him. He often has good prices on reloading components too.
--wally.
Very easy to do business with. Only thing I've done to my CZ75 is add one of the red fiber optic front sights I got from him. He often has good prices on reloading components too.
--wally.
Primersinmyshoe
Member
My TZ 75 is almost a CZ My local gunsmith worked it over a bit:
My local gunsmith worked it over a bit:
GARY1911A1
Member
Now that's what I call a beavertail! Guess there is no chance of your hand hitting above the beavertail on the draw.
Guess there is no chance of your hand hitting above the beavertail on the draw.craig
Member
both my 75bd and my pcr have wolff mag, recoil, and extractor springs, and stainless guide rods. i do have rubber grips on the bd, courtesy of a cleaning error by my local shop. the pcr came stock with them
so far, after a 100 round break in, i've had no problems with either gun. the triggers are smoothing out very well, and i haven't decided whether to modify the mag brakes or just leave them be.
75bd approx. 2600 rounds, pcr approx 1500.
these are some of the best guns i've ever bought.
so far, after a 100 round break in, i've had no problems with either gun. the triggers are smoothing out very well, and i haven't decided whether to modify the mag brakes or just leave them be.
75bd approx. 2600 rounds, pcr approx 1500.
these are some of the best guns i've ever bought.
bl4ckd0g
Member
What's up w/ the recoil on the CZ75B?
I noticed that most of you have replaced the recoil springs on your cz75. Are they really just oversprung to handle the hotter NATO 9mm loads that border on +P pressures?
When I had my first range trip, the action cycled aggressively and I could feel the recoil in my right elbow. I get muzzle flip from my SIG, but it hardly has any recoil.
I noticed that most of you have replaced the recoil springs on your cz75. Are they really just oversprung to handle the hotter NATO 9mm loads that border on +P pressures?
When I had my first range trip, the action cycled aggressively and I could feel the recoil in my right elbow. I get muzzle flip from my SIG, but it hardly has any recoil.
rbernie
Contributing Member
Sage advice. About the only thing that needs doin' (i.e. is not a user preference kinda thing) is uprating the extractor spring. Otherwise, I flatten the mag brake and leave 'em stock.
There has been some corrolation between overly-heavy recoil springs and broken slide stops.
MikeRussell
Member
I noticed that most of you have replaced the recoil springs on your cz75. Are they really just oversprung to handle the hotter NATO 9mm loads that border on +P pressures?
The SP01s are oversprung for target ammo. They are made for Nato and +P ammo. I went with a 14# spring then down to an 11# spring to get reliable feeding with light target ammo. If I put my original (approx 18#) spring back in and tried to fire some of my light reloads, I would probably only get one shot off and the fired casing may or may not eject (that's how light my loads are).
The SP01s are oversprung for target ammo. They are made for Nato and +P ammo. I went with a 14# spring then down to an 11# spring to get reliable feeding with light target ammo. If I put my original (approx 18#) spring back in and tried to fire some of my light reloads, I would probably only get one shot off and the fired casing may or may not eject (that's how light my loads are).
saltydog452
Member
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2004
- Messages
- 1,707
What I'd like to modify is the dang thumb safety on the DA/SA 75 B. The existing safety ledge is too far fwd and the beveled edge (ledge) offers less for the thunb to 'purchase' in a hurried presentation.
The 'ledge' on the SA only would be just dandy.
I noticed on a couple of the preceeding photos that the safetys appeared to be modidied.
salty.
The 'ledge' on the SA only would be just dandy.
I noticed on a couple of the preceeding photos that the safetys appeared to be modidied.
salty.
eehellfire
Member
- Joined
- May 17, 2007
- Messages
- 1
Hi everyone,
The particular method i use to draw and cock requires punching the weapon in my right hand through my stationary left hand in order to cock.
The force required to cock the weapon is significant, and is taking its toll both on my hand and my speed from holstered to firing.
Is there any modification I can have made to my gun (CZ75B) that would help with this. I assume that it is one of the springs that is very tight, can that be changed?
Thanks
The particular method i use to draw and cock requires punching the weapon in my right hand through my stationary left hand in order to cock.
The force required to cock the weapon is significant, and is taking its toll both on my hand and my speed from holstered to firing.
Is there any modification I can have made to my gun (CZ75B) that would help with this. I assume that it is one of the springs that is very tight, can that be changed?
Thanks
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