CZ 75B Hammer Cam
- Thread starter rjk2475
- Start date
- Status
BlindJustice
Member
CZ 75B - left the factory Jan '08 - I got it in May, and it has 900 rds
through it so far.... no FTF/FTEs No mods to date.
Randall
through it so far.... no FTF/FTEs No mods to date.
Randall
pistobro206
Member
It's tough to leave it alone when you've tried one that has been tuned. I've changed the hammer spring and the recoil spring in my latest SP-01, a tactical and I'm about ready to mess with it a little to get it close to my other tuned SP-01s.
-Albert
-Albert
armoredman
Member
Mod my CZs? Other than grips, needed nothing so far!
schmeky
Member
rjk2475 said:
Depends. Once you try the comp hammer for yourself, it's difficult not to want it. Safe? Absolutely, it's an original CZ part made at the factory.
It's a bargain for $58.00 plus postage. The only caveat is you'll have to trim the sear safety tang for the manual safety to work properly. It's not difficult, but you might need some THR member input the first go round.
Combine this with a 13 or 15# mainspring and you've got a custom gun for far less than $100.00. Again, this is a bargain for the results. All my CZ's (total of 5) have the comp hammer/mainspring set-up.
1SOW
Member
I've made errors before and probably will again; but the movement to trip the sear/hammer hooks "FLAT Surfaces" is not linear but circular/rotary. This causes the camming. Stock CZs have more camming than most. The comp sear and hammer shorten the movement necessary and changes the hammer hooks to release the hammer with much less camming.
I'm 1SOW and I approve this message.
I'm 1SOW and I approve this message.
CZF
Member
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2003
- Messages
- 2,034
Even a CZ-USA Gunsmith tuned 75B or any B gun will have some
minor camming. A tuned 75B SA is really nice if you want minimal camming.
A lighter than stock mainspring might be good for a reduced trigger pull, but
I wouldn't personally trust one for defensive carry.
minor camming. A tuned 75B SA is really nice if you want minimal camming.
A lighter than stock mainspring might be good for a reduced trigger pull, but
I wouldn't personally trust one for defensive carry.
burningsquirrels
Member
the comp hammer, 15 lb mainspring, and extra power extractor spring is a good purchase for da/sa operation. the comp hammer, sa only trigger, and extractor spring is excellent for shooting sports.
the comp hammer canges some pivot points, so you'll need to modify the safety lever arm where it interrupts the sear. you'll see what needs to be done once you install the new hammer, it's no big deal.
the comp hammer canges some pivot points, so you'll need to modify the safety lever arm where it interrupts the sear. you'll see what needs to be done once you install the new hammer, it's no big deal.
schmeky
Member
rjk2475,
Not sure on the decocker version. Maybe one of the THR guru's can chime in. You could call CZ USA or Angus's Custom Shop to make 100% certain.
Not sure on the decocker version. Maybe one of the THR guru's can chime in. You could call CZ USA or Angus's Custom Shop to make 100% certain.
ZeSpectre
Member
I would suspect not.
The two sear "arms" on a regular CZ are the same length.
The "BD" decocker has one shorter arm (for the decocking mechanism).
atblis
Member
The sear only rests on one hook on a decocker CZ (correspondingly the hammer only has one hook).
burningsquirrels
Member
there is a different hammer for decockers.
The backwards camming of the hammer during trigger pull is there as a safety feature. As someone once explained to me, its there so that the catch doesn't accidentally slip off and release the hammer. Basically, the hammer camming can be broken down into three types, hammers that cam slightly back on trigger pull, hammers that do not move, and hammers that begin to creep forward with trigger pull. The last condition is very dangerous and can be called a hair-trigger, since it can discharge spontaneously from rough handling of the weapon, and may also give an inconsistent release, as the hammer slips off the sear.
atblis
Member
Yeah well.
With the hammer let off as I call it, it can also fire spontaneously when the gun is cycling. This is bad. Especially bad in the case where you hit the slide release to load, and the gun fires off a 3 round burst.
With the hammer let off as I call it, it can also fire spontaneously when the gun is cycling. This is bad. Especially bad in the case where you hit the slide release to load, and the gun fires off a 3 round burst.
phrozenlikwid
Member
Nearly all my CZ's have been worked over, most with the comp Hammer.
I have no problems to report with them, and that spans several thousands of rounds. Even my wildest CZ's in terms of trigger work run fine regarding F/F. Mainspring weight is hardly voodoo, just switch them out until you find the lowest one that will reliably set off your primers. If you shoot a wide variety of factory ammo, 15lb seemed to be about right for me.
From the factory CZ's are pretty decent. If you buy smart (read:used) you can have a nearly full custom gun for less than the price that you'd pay for many premium stock guns (Sigs, HK's, etc). Once you shoot a custom CZ, you probably won't want to go back to much of anything else. It is a night/day difference, and they become world beaters.
I have no problems to report with them, and that spans several thousands of rounds. Even my wildest CZ's in terms of trigger work run fine regarding F/F. Mainspring weight is hardly voodoo, just switch them out until you find the lowest one that will reliably set off your primers. If you shoot a wide variety of factory ammo, 15lb seemed to be about right for me.
From the factory CZ's are pretty decent. If you buy smart (read:used) you can have a nearly full custom gun for less than the price that you'd pay for many premium stock guns (Sigs, HK's, etc). Once you shoot a custom CZ, you probably won't want to go back to much of anything else. It is a night/day difference, and they become world beaters.
burningsquirrels
Member
with a comp hammer you shouldn't need to touch the sear as per angus...
i touched mine just a bit just until almost perfect sear engagement for that slight margin of 'safety.' i also removed the FPB, but be advised this is a race gun modification. for carry, i polish up the FPB components ot try and help smoothen it out.
i touched mine just a bit just until almost perfect sear engagement for that slight margin of 'safety.' i also removed the FPB, but be advised this is a race gun modification. for carry, i polish up the FPB components ot try and help smoothen it out.
ZeSpectre
Member
Please, learn and use the correct terms.
I notice that several people here are using their own terms for the action that happens with the trigger and hammer of a CZ-75B pistol.
PLEASE, learn and use the correct terms so that we are all discussing the same thing. This can be an important safety issue because "Negative Engagement" on a CZ hammer is a DANGEROUS condition and if the firing pin block also fails you WILL have an unintended discharge of your firearm.
About the types of engagement...
With the breech clear and the firearm pointed in a safe direction, squeeze the trigger to observe the hammer's movement PRIOR to let off as the hammer slides on the surface of the sear:
1) if the hammer moves forward, then the hammer/sear is said
to have negative engagement. (this is BAD).
2) if the hammer remains motionless, then the hammer/sear is said
to have neutral engagement.
3) if the hammer moves rearward, then the hammer/sear is said
to have positive engagement.
"Positive engagement" is the preferred and safer condition. This is because the hammer will tend to want to remain on its full cock notch until overcome by the effort of moving the sear.
Neutral conditions are less safe than the positive condition but not necessarily a dangerous one.
Negative condition is dangerous as the hammer has, essentially, already begun to "let off" and will finish doing so with very little vibration or effort (hair trigger). If the negative condition is severe enough the sear can slip causing an inadvertent and unexpected discarge at any time.
Prudence dictates seeking the positive condition if at all possible and if there is any doubt have a competent gunsmith inspect the firearm.
Now the CZ-75b line tends to have a pretty strong positive engagement (what folks 'round here keep calling "camming". Again, please learn and use the correct terms for safety's sake) and if someone knows what they are doing then positive engagement can be safely reduced somewhat. But we are talking about precision work here and it takes very little error to take the sear into negative engagement territory and give you a pistol that will let the hammer slip with just a solid slap to the side of the gun
.
I notice that several people here are using their own terms for the action that happens with the trigger and hammer of a CZ-75B pistol.
PLEASE, learn and use the correct terms so that we are all discussing the same thing. This can be an important safety issue because "Negative Engagement" on a CZ hammer is a DANGEROUS condition and if the firing pin block also fails you WILL have an unintended discharge of your firearm.
About the types of engagement...
With the breech clear and the firearm pointed in a safe direction, squeeze the trigger to observe the hammer's movement PRIOR to let off as the hammer slides on the surface of the sear:
1) if the hammer moves forward, then the hammer/sear is said
to have negative engagement. (this is BAD).
2) if the hammer remains motionless, then the hammer/sear is said
to have neutral engagement.
3) if the hammer moves rearward, then the hammer/sear is said
to have positive engagement.
"Positive engagement" is the preferred and safer condition. This is because the hammer will tend to want to remain on its full cock notch until overcome by the effort of moving the sear.
Neutral conditions are less safe than the positive condition but not necessarily a dangerous one.
Negative condition is dangerous as the hammer has, essentially, already begun to "let off" and will finish doing so with very little vibration or effort (hair trigger). If the negative condition is severe enough the sear can slip causing an inadvertent and unexpected discarge at any time.
Prudence dictates seeking the positive condition if at all possible and if there is any doubt have a competent gunsmith inspect the firearm.
Now the CZ-75b line tends to have a pretty strong positive engagement (what folks 'round here keep calling "camming". Again, please learn and use the correct terms for safety's sake) and if someone knows what they are doing then positive engagement can be safely reduced somewhat. But we are talking about precision work here and it takes very little error to take the sear into negative engagement territory and give you a pistol that will let the hammer slip with just a solid slap to the side of the gun
.burningsquirrels
Member
good post, zespectre.
again, mine are set up to be just before perfect neutral engagement.
and agreed, this is something that is 100% at your own risk and in most cases is best left to a gunsmith.
again, mine are set up to be just before perfect neutral engagement.
and agreed, this is something that is 100% at your own risk and in most cases is best left to a gunsmith.
Hard to leave a good thing alone.. CZs are good from the factory..great with a little love.
The comp hammer is a great part. the part is very consistent..have not seen a bad one yet.
I've tried many times to leave a CZ alone..and shoot it as is..but late at night..I get a calling, before I know it..that gun is apart..sights are switched, action job done, new grips put on..and there you have it..
Haven't ruined one yet..
The comp hammer is a great part. the part is very consistent..have not seen a bad one yet.
I've tried many times to leave a CZ alone..and shoot it as is..but late at night..I get a calling, before I know it..that gun is apart..sights are switched, action job done, new grips put on..and there you have it..
Haven't ruined one yet..
- Status
