Damaged Brass From AR Platform Rifles

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DMW1116

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I want to start reloading 223 and 308 for my AR15 and AR10. However, the 15 appears to dent empty cases just at the shoulder or a bit behind it.

The 10 has an adjustable gas block and I've been able to tune it to stop chewing up most brass.

I guess the first question is are these dents an issue? The second is how do I stop it? I'm rejecting about half the cases I've collected, which seems like a lot. Not all the cases are mine, but most are. They're a mixture of Foichi 55 gr, AE 223 & 5.56, Hornady 223, Frontier 223 and 5.56, with just a bit of Norma 223 mixed in.
 
Generally,, they are not dented beyond use.

You can glue a piece of foam rubber to the brass deflector if that is where they are being dented.
(Piece of a mouse pad... etc)

You can also "tune" the extractor spring. They make replacements springs or you can cut coils.
They are cheap to experiment with.
 
I generally avoid brass that has been dented to the point it is creased, especially near the shoulder/neck area. Up to that point I reuse them, sometimes the dents are ironed out by the die and sometimes a small indent remains. I figure if it is creased it has likely weakened the brass enough that it wouldn't be of use for more than one or two reloads at best, and it could gas-cut or rupture in my chamber at worst.
 
I generally avoid brass that has been dented to the point it is creased, especially near the shoulder/neck area. Up to that point I reuse them, sometimes the dents are ironed out by the die and sometimes a small indent remains. I figure if it is creased it has likely weakened the brass enough that it wouldn't be of use for more than one or two reloads at best, and it could gas-cut or rupture in my chamber at worst.
The brass that is damaged just below the shoulder can be cut down and reformed for 300 Blk. :)
 
Yes they are for the most part tiny dents at or just behind the shoulder. Pinpoint to pinhead size. Certainly nothing like in the reddit thread. Some came out during sizing. Some are more burrs than anything. The AR10 was chewing up brass pretty well until I figured out how to adjust the gas block. It was at least 50% going in the reject pile.

Unfortunately lately I don't have a 300 BO. I'm convinced I'd mix up ammo or magazines and cause more trouble than good.
 
Those dents will be pushed out when you fire them. Nothing to worry about unless there is a crease in the brass.
 
They are landing about 4 to 5 o'clock behind me on my right. Is it the deflector that causes the dents? They are remarkably consistent in location on the cases.
 
The ejector is flipping the brass against the deflector on the upper. Take a coil out of the ejector spring and it will stop slinging it so hard.
 
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Does load have anything to do with it or is it just the ejector and bouncing off the deflector? I'm actually pretty glad it does bounce off, otherwise it would hit me. I shoot left handed.
 
Agreeing with dredd. generally, the small dents are not an issue. I have loaded literally thousands of rounds with such dented cases with zero problems.
 
Does load have anything to do with it or is it just the ejector and bouncing off the deflector? I'm actually pretty glad it does bounce off, otherwise it would hit me. I shoot left handed.

If it's over gassed, high bolt speed it does. The bolt comes back so fast the brass hits the deflector and bounces the brass forward.
 
Isn't there one made onto upper already?

There is, but as you mentioned... your brass is getting dented.

When I bought my -A2 H-Bar (fix carry handle) I bought a USGI brass deflector, and modified it to fit around the deflector already on the upper... this saved my brass and also plopped them in a nice pile by my side.

With my flattop AR's, I bought a brass catcher... that way I don't have to chase brass at all.
 
I mentioned in a earlier post if you weaken the ejector spring it will quit denting them. Pull you BCG an put a empty brass under the extractor, load it against the bolt face then release it. You will be surprise how for it will throw it. Take 1 coil out (~1/8") of the spring will cut the distance in about 1/2 and the dents will no longer happen. Does requires a tool to keep pressure on the ejector pin so you can remove the roll pin, 1/16" punch required. I do this to every gun I build and tune. The strong spring was for the military for when they were use full auto. The last thing you need is a brass to jam the gun. Throwing it into the county was the fix.
 
I had this issue in my rifle and unfortunately didn't have an adjustable gas block on it. Instead I put a piece of velcro on the deflector since I had it on hand and that solved the issue. Bottom line as long as there is not a crack in the case it will fireform if not come out when sizing the case.
 
If you have any Velcro, use the "loop" or "fuzzy" side, cut it to fit your brass deflector, and double stick tape it on. Has worked well for me in my ar15's & ar10!
 
If you have any Velcro, use the "loop" or "fuzzy" side, cut it to fit your brass deflector, and double stick tape it on. Has worked well for me in my ar15's & ar10!

That's a good idea. I have a roll of 'Commercial' Velcro... that stuff has adhesive like gangbusters... it would work very well without looking Bubba.
 
Thanks for the tips. I will try the moleskin, as I already have some. I hope to start reloading these this week.
 
Does the moleskin or velcro pick up dirt and debris easily? Clean well enough? I think I want to put something on mine as well but would be driven nuts if I look down each time to find crap.
 
Does the moleskin or velcro pick up dirt and debris easily? Clean well enough? I think I want to put something on mine as well but would be driven nuts if I look down each time to find crap.

The velcro hardly picks any dirt/sand up at all. I've unknowingly set my AR down in some and it just brushed off with my finger.
 
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