Dan Wesson 357 with a four inch barrel

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new toy!

So I went to ye olde gunne shoppe today, traded in a pair of CZ-52s (really, who needs three?) and a hundred bucks for a Dan Wesson .357 six inch. It looks an awful lot like the 15-2s I see posted here, but how do I know for sure? It's stamped Monson, Mass and serial # 2411xx.

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Besides the revolver checkout that's sticky at the top of this forum, are there any other quirks or whatever that I need to be aware of with this gun? It passes that checkout perfectly, but does have a slight (maybe .001" at the center of the bores) side-to-side cylinder play with the trigger back and hammer down. Cylinder gap is TIIIIIGHT! probably .002 or less. Cosmetically the finish is worn on the front edge of the cylinder and it has the typical drag mark, the bore is freakin' gorgeous, and it came with Pachmayr Gripper grips on it. Can't wait to get it to the range!
 
I need to adjust the cylinder gap on mine, too. Factory gap is .006, though I've known a few guys to run half that. If the cylinder face is true, I guess there shouldn't be a problem.

.002 is a bit tight, though. It wouldn't take much fouling to cause trouble.
 
velojym It does depend a bit on the use . For hunting I set mine about as tight as I can between 1 and 2ths on one of my 357's and my 44mag. Both are good for a nomal range trip and to hunt with. One 357 is set at 4ths all the time.
 
Besides the revolver checkout that's sticky at the top of this forum, are there any other quirks or whatever that I need to be aware of with this gun?

1) You have to remove the side plate in order to remove the cylinder, if you like to do that when cleaning (I do.)

2) When you take off the side plate, you will most likely also dislodge the hand and/or the hand return spring from the groove at the rear of the hand. Just know you will do it and remember to put it back when the side plate goes back on.

3) When you do take out the cylinder crane, there is a small spring and plunger that will fall out that presses on the cylinder lock. Retain this spring and plunger for future use...

3) Do not overtighten the grip screw, or else you will block the hammer from traveling far enough to engage the SA sear. Also, when swapping grips, make sure the grip screw doesn't interfere with hammer movement.

Cylinder gap is TIIIIIGHT! probably .002 or less.

Go to www.ewkarms.com, and purchase a small frame barrel wrench, and a gauge kit.

You may also wish to buy a small frame parts kit, a small frame hand spring, and a fiber optic front sight blade. Front sights are easily swappable with an allen wrench (included in the gauge kit.)
 
I have 7 Dan Wesson's 22 38S 357 375 Had 44 like a dummy it traded it off. I have the pistol pack it also has the belt buckle and extra sites also the arm patch. Some are full lug. I have 7 different barrels for them that I can change to at any time.
 
Danbowkly, you do have a model 15-2; adjustable sights denote the 15 series. You also have the standard light barrel, they came in standard with full lug, like a Python light, like yours and with vent rib, like the top rib on the Python. I've owned 3 and shot many, they are all very accurate.
 
The full lug shrouds are my favorite. Wouldn't mind finding a 12" and 15" barrel for my 15-2...that I could afford.

DW 15-2 pistol pac less case.
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DW Model 40-V8S .357 SuperMag
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Local guy is selling his Model 14, but it looks a little rough. Anybody know what it's worth? $300 maybe?

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If you can shot that model 14 and check it real well, tight lock up, smooth function and if it has the tool for it maybe 250 bucks. That pore thang looks like it has had a rougher than normal life. . Never seen the purple frame on a 357. Contact - http://www.blueridgebluing.com/index.html And maybe send those photos to him if you want to make it purty again and see what he thinks. he use to do DW's work.
 
The purple color is purely cosmetic and has no impact on function or durability, re-bluing will work in the short run, but the purple (barney) effect will probably bleed thru eventually.

$300 seems high, re-bluing will run around $100.
 
I have that purplish look on a couple DW's .

You can often find a model 15 on the cheap as its not an SW or a Colt or a Ruger. Some people seem to think its a 'knock off'--or are put off by the two handed cylinder latch.
 
That M14-2 is pretty rough, but I've seen worse. If it is mechanically in good condition and you can get it for $200-$250, it's an ideal candidate for a trip to Robar's and their NP3 plating. That'll run about $250 but you'll wind up with a stainless-like finish that is very resistant to corrosion and wear.
 
Ooh. I dunno if a 14 has any collector value, but the nice 15-2 I posted on the first page cost me about $260 at Gander Mountain... not known for low prices.
 
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