Dang it all! I've done gone and wrecked the bluing

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jamesinalaska

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The proverb is too true: Haste does make waste.

I was in a hurry to clean a pistol in my new, el-cheapo ultrasonic. Easy enough, just add water and a squirt or two of the cleaner that came along with it, and dang, "look at all the time I'm saving."

Well, ha ha, looks like the joke is on me. I should have taken half a minute to read some labels. The cleaner I squirted into the tank was "for brass only" and though the slide and slide stop came out of the tank free of carbon and gunk, they also came out of the tank free of bluing.

So, I'm looking for a do-it-yourself, homestyle rebluing kit. Please don't suggest using a Sharpie as a few of my friends have (yeah, hohoho, real clever, fellas).

I have a tank and a heater I could use, but I don't want to get into anything like a professional setup and I don't want to send the piece off to a gunsmith (it's a Zastava, not a Colt).

The pistol works fine, and has always worked well, but I'd rather not spend more money on it than the piece is worth.. Thanks in advance.

Another proverb: it is good to learn from mistakes; even better to learn from mistakes of others.
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You will not get good results with anything other than real bluing, which is expensive and dangerous.
Use your tank and heater and Parkerize
Temps are hot at 172°F, but will not injure you with a splash. The chemicals are much safer than bluing chemicals as well. The 16oz bottle will last many rifles. You would need a thermometer, motor oil, gloves, degreaser, running water.
This finish will look good, hold up better than bluing, and is not a paint. This is the universal post-war finish for most small arms.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1841122455
 
If you decide not to parkerize, look at Brownell's 'teflon-moly' spray; it's like Cera-Kote 'lite', and comes in spray cans.

Larry
 
There are a number of bake on and simple spray on finishes. Do a web search for them, or go to Brownell's and check what they have. I have also done Parkerizing as suggested and that is a good option as well. Duracoat is my next project.
 
I would also go the Brownells bake-on Teflon/moly route. Low ‘n’ slow oven cure. Easy to touch up with any satin black rattlecan auto paint. As you said, it isn’t a Colt. But there won’t be anything wrong with how it looks.
 
Brownells has been out of Gunkote for a long while. Ive used it and find it acceptable.
Still just a paint IMHO.

When it gets worn off, do it again.
 
From the one partial image it doesn't look all that bad , and as you stated - it's a Zastava, not a Colt.

I'd take a clean soft rag & Flitz to it , mellow out whatever splotchyness there may be , wipe down with oil and shoot it.
Otherwise , if you want the project , I am in the Parkerize camp.

How about some more informative images?
 
I rather appreciated your comment on mistakes and learning. At the risk of derailing the topic, I remember the late Will Rodgers saying "There are three kinds of people: Those who learn from reading, those who learn from watching others, and those who have to urinate on an electric fence for themselves." (He did use an earthier term for 'urinate'.)

Seems like you are learning and sharing your experiences. Good fellow!
 
44-40 cold blue. Remove all oil, heat the parts to the 150 degree range and apply, sometimes several application helps. It’s not a coating and it’s not like a good hot blue either. It’s not expensive and it’s not a Colt!
 
Buy a bottle of Express Blue from Brownells and reblue it yourself. Express bluing is ore durable than hot salt blue but it takes more work to apply. READ and follow the instructions.
 
I agree on trying one of the better cold blues. Some come out very close to a real blue job. Yeah they may wear through quicker but just put some more on. They are cheap and easy to use. What have you got to loose? I personally like Vans and have done quite a few old .22s with it and they look great. Heres an old Mossberg I did. Good luck.
https://vansgunblue.com/
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I get great results with oxpho blue from brownells, remove all blue, polish bare metal so all even...clean with alcohol, then apply
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I apply a good coating with cream formula and re apply it every 10 to 15 min. To keep wet for about a hour, wipe off, let dry then lightly polish with #0000 reapply more if needed...after done, let sit for a day or 2 then wax with
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Here is a rusted shotgun barrel I did
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Is this the "BEFORE" or "AFTER" photo? If it's the after, I'd wipe it down with oil and get to shooting.
 
If the area you are wanting to reblue is that uneven area inside the safety, I wouldn't even worry about it. To do it correctly and look normal, you would have to take apart the slide and remove the safety to get underneath.
 
My holster has done more wear than that. If you want to do something a little different try hydro dipping. I’ve never done it but have seen it done with respectable results
 
Maybe powder coat them? Setting up is cheap, AND if you cast bullets you'll never use FMJ or TMJ's again. I PC'd my rusty Beretta grip screws and mag base pad just to see if it worked, it did, and after several months no finish wear.
 
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