dcreasing a nipples diameter?

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AbitNutz

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This may be insane, go figure. But the only caps I can get locally are CCI/Winchester #10's. They are too small in diameter for my Treso nipples. The caps do not fully seat and will cause misfires.

The answer is just to have a slightly smaller diameter nipple. Now Treso Nipples are made of Ampco and are renowned for being very hard.

Anyone have an idea or method they could recommend to reduce the diameter of a Treso nipple? No, I don't have a lathe. I have a drill press and a dremel and a really cheap nature.

I've never been able to get CCI/Wichester #10's on anything....That fit in my Ruger Old Army.
 
Chuck the nipple up in a hand drill, or the drill press if you'd prefer, set it to run at a low speed (very low if possible) and use a small fine tooth file or even a strip of 400 grit to file it down.

Obviously you don't want to chuck the nipple up on the threads.

Ampco brass is hard, but it's not diamond. It may take a while to make significant progress. Keep checking with a cap, though, to make sure you don't overdo it. And take care not to change the taper.of the nipple cone.
 
Nearest Cabelas is 220 miles. Not to mention, even though they and Gander Mountain claim to have #11's in stock I have never seen anything but #10's.
 
Try Widener's reloading supplies on line.

They have cc #11 in stock for $45/1000.
Buy a few thousand, pay shipping and hazmat,
and you will still be probably be ahead of what
most shops charge buying them a hundred at
a time.
 
My Blomquist nipples are perfect for RWS 1075+'s. They don't begin to fit CCI #10's either. Through some convoluted method I ended up with a fair amount of CCI #10's.

My plan is to figure out how to put the Treso nipples in my drill press, without damaging the threads and then hitting them with some 320 grit and then some 600 grit emery paper. I'm sure we're talking only a few thousands of an inch.

The nipple looks like it doesn't have an taper to it so this may make it a bit easier.

Every file I have I think would be too course.
 
Abitnutz,
There is definitely taper on the Treso tube. I used to have a graphic of the unmodified Treso tubes which is optimized for #11 caps (actually a Rem #11 is the best) and also the dimensions necessary to modify the tubes to reliably use #10 caps shown on this site.

I will post those images on another site and give you a link to it later. It will be later this evening before I can get to it. The dimensions are included which is what you need. I use a separate set of modified tubes for #10s if I can't buy Remington #11s. You can "make" both Remingtons work on a Treso but I don't find it meets the reliability hurdle I demand for competition.

To make a Remington #10 work you have to press it on with enough force that most of the caps will relieve themselves at the petal crotch. As snug press fit with less force has proved more reliable for me. I never have a misfire because of a high or missing cap, the only problems I have experienced in the last 4 years since I went to the two size of tubes sets is the very rare cap fragment on the Colt's pattern pistols attenuating or stopping the hammer fall.

I'll post later,
Mako
 
Makos...more information I could nit ask for. I have a really high end micrometer that I'll double check the nipples every diameter.

I can't bring myself to force #10's on the nipples with anymore force than I already do. I'm hopeful that if I put the nipples in the drill press, at low speed and just carefully hit it with some 320...now that I know there is a taper, I'll take just enough off to get #10's on like #11's fit.

Your pictures only show a few thousands difference.

I'm going to use 320 and may 600 double sided taped to steel straight edge.

This way I'll have a set of nipples that fit RWS, Remington #10 and #11's as well as CCI/Winchesters #10's.

At least that's the plan.
 
So when is a nipple referred to as a nipple and when is it referred to as a tube?

AbitNutz - perhaps you could tap a short piece of brass rod, screw the nipple/tube into the rod and then chuck the rod assembly in your drill press. Then while rotating it slowly you could force some emery cloth on the exposed tapered section and decrease the OD to the desired fit.

Jason
 
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I believe that the term "nipple" is properly used to refer to the entire part, which includes the threaded fitting that screws into the cylinder, as well as the base and the tube which the percussion cap fits. The term "tube" is that part of the nipple where the percussion cap fits.

I believe that back in the Victorian era, they used the term "tube" or "cone" to refer to the entire part, because use of the word "nipple" would have offended their sensibilities. However today it is properly used in the context of plumbing, as in a "pipe nipple".
 
Makos Goods, great link! One of the best and most informative posts regarding making percussion work and increasing safety that I've ever seen!
 
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