Dealing with Pitting and Rust Spots

[Zeke Menuar]

Hello All

I am currently fixing up a 1945 M38 Turkish Mauser KKale mistmatch. Once I pulled away the stock, I found a moderate amount of pitting along the stock line. The exposed metal has no bluing left. No pitting on the exposed surfaces.

I would like to remove the rust embedded in the pitting and reblue to help prevent rust in the future. What is the best way to get all of the rust out of the pitting and prep for cold blue?

As far as the exposed metal, There is no bluing left. The exposed part of the barrel has the grey/brown patina. The reciever is just a dull grey. I am thinking I might go ahead and try to reblue the exposed surfaces. What is the best way to prep and refinish the exposed metal?

This is the most ambitious project I have tackled to date. I have a walnut stock coming in the mail. The OEM stock was rotten and falling apart. It looks like there is muzzle damage. I think I might go ahead and counterbore about an inch. Rifling is so-so. I think there is a lot of JB's bore paste in my furture. All of the exposed screws and metal pieces will be cleaned-up, replaced if needed or repaired.


The good news is I have a 03 FFL and get the Brownells discount. The bad news is I live in an apartment. Most of the work will be done by hand with a limited amount of power tools.
I can't get too crazy with working on gunstuff. My wife allows only one card table in the living room and I can only take over the kitchen for a few days at a time. She claims that the kitchen is for cooking? How unreasonable!

Thanks
ZM

 

[mete]

That rebluing is not a cold blue job. Take it to a gunsmith to do a proper hot blue.

 

[Jim K]

The best way to kill rust without leaving a residue of oil that can mess up a blue job is to boil the gun in distilled water, let it dry from its own heat, then do the degrease and blue. You can do a reblue job with cold blue, but it is not a lasting finish and will wear off quite quickly.

As alternatives, you might get a Brownells catalog and look at their Oxpho-Blue (cold blue) and Dichropan (hot water blue), both easier to use and safer than caustic blue.

But for a really good and lasting blue job, I agree with mete that for you will need a professional.

Jim

 

[Zeke Menuar]

Well, I think I'll try to slow and contain the yuck under the stock line to prevent further rusting and pitting. The exposed metal isn't rusted, just devoid of bluing. I'll be (insert expletive here) if I am going to spend the money to reblue a $60 mismatch beater rifle/training excercise. The cost of bluing is more than I paid for the whole gun.

Besides I need a British made Enfield to go with my Ishy Enfields. Rather sink money into a whole rifle.

Thanks
ZM