Dented Cases

I started using Cabela's version of One Shot a lot of years ago. It wasn't too long and I got a stuck 223 case. I put the problem down to not letting the lube get completely dry so I changed my lube procedure a little. I put my cases in an aluminum tray and spray them, shake them around and spray again. Then I use a hair dryer to quickly dry them. This has completely eliminated stuck cases and I have never had a dented case either. Once in a great while I will swab out my resizing die with 91% rubbing alcohol.
 
Ill probably never stick a case again now that I have the proper tool. :rofl:
Yep, as I said in my earlier post in this thread, I have a brand new (never used) stuck case remover in a drawer above my loading bench. It's been there since sometime in the 80s - before they invented spray-on case lube, I think. Maybe that's why I've never used my stuck case remover. :D
 
I just started to dab my finger on a lube pad and apply RCBS case lube with my fingers quick when I put the case into the shell holder to size it. no more dented cases.
 
As others have said lube dents won’t hinder use of the brass.

You need lube on the body of the case with only the tiniest amount on the neck and shoulder, the neck and shoulder can actually be dry.
 
So, I just ruined about 60 cases. It appears I used too much lubrication (Lyman spray-on case lube and Hornady One-Shot) while trying to FL size in a brand new RCBS FL sizing die. I was so focused on not sticking a case, I didn't notice the denting until it was too late. Tossed them all in the trash. Fortunately, I have plenty of cases.

But what is frustrating me is there seems to be no correct answer to this problem. I got a case stuck in the die to the point that I just returned it to Cabela's for a new die set. That was obviously not enough lubrication. But the cases are passing in and out of the die so hard I had to do something. I could only get the case in a small fraction of an inch before it would stick and I'd have to remove it, add some more lube, raise it another fraction of an inch, stick, withdraw it, repeat. It makes a hell of a noise you can hear throughout the house, andI reload in the garage.

It's ridiculous. Darned if you do, darned if you don't. Case stuck in die or case ruined by too much lube. Pick your poison.


60 cases! Seems to me the first thing to do when you have dug yourself into a hole is quit digging!
Dented cases are caused by too much case lube on the neck and shoulder. That's why in the oooold days, lube pads were used more often. Most dented cases can be un-dented by firing, with no damage to person or property. At least, that's been my experience. I used to apply a really gooey semi-liquid lube called Eagle Blood...that my gun shop clerk recommended when I bought my first rifle and loading dies...applied it (lightly) with my fingers. Likely, a lube pad would work, also. I graduated to spray-on lube...FWIW...I never stuck a case in a die until I started using Hornady spray can lube. That ended quickly! YMMV! When I stuck my cases, I had bought a stuck case remover years before just in case, and I dusted it off. It worked well. :thumbup: Good luck!:)
 
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Stuck cases are only a problem during the learning curve. Once you learn enough, the problem goes away.

That said, Dillon dies are the best design for those that stick cases because they have a built in stuck case “ejector”. Lee dies cost a lot less and are easier than the remaining brands to remove stuck cases.

Hornady’s one shot is the worst lube I have tried, I still have most of a can because I don’t even use it on pistol brass. Try their Unique case lube, it’s almost as good as imperial. I will say this about spray on lubes, you must let them “flash” or allow the carrier of the lube to evaporate off, leaving the lube behind. If you spray and go right into the die, they are not effective. The most effective spray lube one can buy is Dillon’s.

100% agreement with @jmorris here.

I’ll add this for thought. I’ve only stuck one case in my reloading career and it was because I used TOO MUCH lube
 
When I apply lube by hand I don't lube the neck at all, it seems that enough migrates in the die to keep it working well. With a spray one assumes uniform application, therefore overlubing necks.
 
I've been using One Shot for 10 or 12 years and haven't stuck a single case.I use it on everything except the brass I use for the very precise stuff.For that I use Imperial wax.My method of application is different from what I've read on here but it works very well for me.I use an MTM loading block,but I put the brass on the side that's supposed to be used for pistol ammo so more of the case is exposed to get a coating of the spray lube on.I put a case in every other hole.This makes it easier to get a nice even coat on all the brass.I shake the can for a good minute,especially if I haven't used it for a few days.I hold the can at about a 30 degree angle to the loading tray so I get a little in the necks.I hold the can 8 or 10 inches away from the brass and spray a light coat on each of the 4 sides of the loading tray.I spray a fairly light coat staying back from the brass and spraying what would be a dry coat of paint on the brass making sure I get a light even coat.I let it sit for 5 minutes or so before I start sizing.If the cases seem to be too tight,I simply spray another light coat and let it sit for a few minutes.It takes a little feel to get the right amount of lubricant on the brass,but it's a pretty wide window to work with.I clean my dies with brake cleaner and a large cotton swab and after I clean them I spray a little bit of One Shot inside the die,and yes,make sure the vent is open.I have a dedicated loading block for lubing cases,and when it gets too much built up on it,some hot water and dish soap will clean it right off.I don't roll the brass in a bag or anything like that,and I make sure I get some on the inside of the necks from each of the 4 sides that I spray from.That will make the trip across the expander ball much easier and will help keep the cases from being distorted from a hard screeching pull.Used properly,One Shot won't stick or dent cases,period.Also,it will lower the effort it takes to size larger rifle brass like the 338 Lapua.It will also cut the effort it takes to resize pistol brass in a carbide die in half.My Dillon SDB feels so smooth if I spritz a little One Shot on the brass and it slips out of the expander/powder funnel station much smoother.When I get done,I use premoistened wipes called Tub of Towels that auto parts stores have to wipe the cases off and lay them on a micro-fiber towel until I get several piled up and then I close the towel on them to dry them off.A little One Shot in the necks of rifle brass using my method will also help prevent the brass and bullet from chemically welding together over time.This is how I do it.It works 100% for me.I may be doing it all wrong,but if I am,it sure does work great.
 
So, I just ruined about 60 cases. It appears I used too much lubrication (Lyman spray-on case lube and Hornady One-Shot) while trying to FL size in a brand new RCBS FL sizing die. I was so focused on not sticking a case, I didn't notice the denting until it was too late. Tossed them all in the trash. Fortunately, I have plenty of cases.

But what is frustrating me is there seems to be no correct answer to this problem. I got a case stuck in the die to the point that I just returned it to Cabela's for a new die set. That was obviously not enough lubrication. But the cases are passing in and out of the die so hard I had to do something. I could only get the case in a small fraction of an inch before it would stick and I'd have to remove it, add some more lube, raise it another fraction of an inch, stick, withdraw it, repeat. It makes a hell of a noise you can hear throughout the house, andI reload in the garage.

It's ridiculous. Darned if you do, darned if you don't. Case stuck in die or case ruined by too much lube. Pick your poison.
I haven’t had a case get stuck yet but I only neck size several of my calibers. Only one I regularly FL resize is my 30-30. So if it’s going to happen, it will be that one. Make sure with Hornady spray you give it time to dry. I haven’t had any dents using this product.
 
If you remember the "stick-em" secretaries used to help separate sheets of paper. They touched the little container and then used the index finger to separate the pages? Hornady's case lube product called "Unique." is like that. And ya don't have to wipe it all over a case, just around the case body, but not the neck. I also put a little on a Q-tip and run a swipe inside the neck when I full size my cases. After sizing, I wipe off the case with a paper towel. Now I've been using "Unique" case lube for over 5 years and have barely used half the tub. I think that is over 3,000 30.06, .270 Win. and .303 British cases based on primers used. I may have to put that container in my will. I used to use One-shot, but no more. I have not dented any cases since I started using Hornady "Unique" case lube.
 
If you remember the "stick-em" secretaries used to help separate sheets of paper. They touched the little container and then used the index finger to separate the pages? Hornady's case lube product called "Unique." is like that. And ya don't have to wipe it all over a case, just around the case body, but not the neck. I also put a little on a Q-tip and run a swipe inside the neck when I full size my cases. After sizing, I wipe off the case with a paper towel. Now I've been using "Unique" case lube for over 5 years and have barely used half the tub. I think that is over 3,000 30.06, .270 Win. and .303 British cases based on primers used. I may have to put that container in my will. I used to use One-shot, but no more. I have not dented any cases since I started using Hornady "Unique" case lube.

A tub of that stuff really does last quite a while. I didn't realize this and bought a two pack lol.
 
Remove the expander ball COMPLETELY!!! and resize a case normally.
Still hard?
Still sticking?
Still screeching?

Check the expander ball for chatter marks, turning marks, rough finish, etc and polish if needed. Don’t worry about slightly undersizing it. If correcting a bad finish removes enough material to undersize the ball, seating the bullet will expand it perfectly.
 
Remove the expander ball COMPLETELY!!! and resize a case normally.
Still hard?
Still sticking?
Still screeching?

Check the expander ball for chatter marks, turning marks, rough finish, etc and polish if needed. Don’t worry about slightly undersizing it. If correcting a bad finish removes enough material to undersize the ball, seating the bullet will expand it perfectly.
^^^^THIS^^^^
 
It took me a few days to get back to this, but here is an update.

I removed and disassembled the FL Sizing die, and I cleaned it out with brake cleaner. Reassembled and set the decapping pin to protrude 3/16 inch. (Saw that on an RCBS Youtube channel video.) Installed and set up as normal. First problem I noticed: at least on my press (Lee Classic Turret) there is absolutely no possible way to install this die in such a way that the lock ring does not cover the vent hole. It just can't be done. Once installed properly, the vent hole is only one or two threads from the press. Once I tighten the lock ring, that' sit; it's covered. The only other option is to remove the lock ring.

Found some Hornady Unique paste type wax. (It was all that was available.) Used my fingers to apply a film to just the wall of the case and rim, no wax on the shoulder or above. Used twice fired, previously neck-sized only cases. No more screeching, chattering, or noise at all, no more dented cases. A little more force required than I would like, but otherwise, it worked. For about 10 cases. Then the denting came back. Very minor and only one or two at first. Now, big dents every single case.

So, I'm pretty frustrated. Also, I would like to point out that I FL size 30-06 cases on a Lee FL sizer for my M1 using RCBS Case Slick and have never had a problem at all. (I think that's why I was able to blast through 60 cases without even realizing I was wrecking the cases. I never even thought to look for dents.) But I've now damaged about 70 cases using a water soluble spray, two different aerosol lubes, and now a paste lube.

It has become obvious to me by now that these RCBS dies are complete garbage and are ruining my cases (this is the 2nd RCBS die I've used on this.) The only issue I had prior to this, when I was neck sizing only, was the cases were getting to the point that they would no longer load into my chamber. So, at this point, I'm done with this. I'm no longer going to FL size these .243 Win chases, and I'm going back to NO sizing. Enough is enough, and 70 cases is enough. Going forward, when I get a case that won't load, I will just consider it the end of life for that case and discard it. That's a lot easier than the time, money, and frustration I've had trying to FL size just to extend case life. I've spent days working on this, and now I'm against the wall with a match tomorrow morning and zero ammo loaded for it.
 
You are not the first person that has FL resized 243 cases using a RCBS die in a Lee turret press, but you are reporting something that just doesn't happen to anyone I've heard of.

Secondly, the threads on the locking ring is not oil tight so should still allow lube to pass through unless there is so much excess lube that it cannot relieve the pressure fast enough. Or you operate the handle too fast.

For my piece of mind, please post a photo of a case with the lube applied and another of the resulting dent.
 
My reloading Dies of choice are CH4D , but they are not easy to obtain ... but have always performed the best for me .

Resizing lube of choice , for the hard resizing / reforming jobs ... STP Oil Treatment applied with a clean lube pad ... the lube is thick , slipperey and greasy but a thin layer rolled on with the saturated pad has never stuck a case . There is a fine line between just enough lube - stuck case - lube dent that only experience will teach you how much to use .
Don't get frustrated , keep trying , one day the light will go on and you will master the process ...
Good Luck ... and don't let all this get to you ... step back , regroup , read the instructions again (maybe you missed something) and try again !
Gary
 
If your frustrated, take a pause and see if a forester sizing die works better. Maybe a Hornaday or Wilson will be a better fit. Heck with a lee press I bet a lee is engineered to be compatible.... sizing dies are sold separately
 
D.B., I was loading 243 on a Lee 3hole press with Lee dies and Unique lube. Now I am loading 223, 6mmARC on the same set up. No fuss no dents. As I said earlier on those rare occasions I find one that doesn't easily go most of the way into the die I throw it away. If I have to force it I don't size it.

With the Unique lube less is better. When I do this I just touch my index finger to the lube and then rub it against the thumb and middle finger. Yes I rub the entire case but when done it doesn't even look like there was lube applied. Yes when I was starting with this I too was applying too much and was getting dents in the shoulders. As an example I can touch the wax lube and adequately lube 4 or 5 223 cases before I have to touch the lube again.

Though it does sound like you found a culprit in this is as it is not venting properly. Know anyone close by that may have another die you could borrow to try? Otherwise new Lee two die set is inexpensive. I have not looked but can you attach the nut from underneath Like I have seen them do on some of the Dillon presses?
 
It took me a few days to get back to this, but here is an update.

I removed and disassembled the FL Sizing die, and I cleaned it out with brake cleaner. Reassembled and set the decapping pin to protrude 3/16 inch. (Saw that on an RCBS Youtube channel video.) Installed and set up as normal. First problem I noticed: at least on my press (Lee Classic Turret) there is absolutely no possible way to install this die in such a way that the lock ring does not cover the vent hole. It just can't be done. Once installed properly, the vent hole is only one or two threads from the press. Once I tighten the lock ring, that' sit; it's covered. The only other option is to remove the lock ring.

Found some Hornady Unique paste type wax. (It was all that was available.) Used my fingers to apply a film to just the wall of the case and rim, no wax on the shoulder or above. Used twice fired, previously neck-sized only cases. No more screeching, chattering, or noise at all, no more dented cases. A little more force required than I would like, but otherwise, it worked. For about 10 cases. Then the denting came back. Very minor and only one or two at first. Now, big dents every single case.

So, I'm pretty frustrated. Also, I would like to point out that I FL size 30-06 cases on a Lee FL sizer for my M1 using RCBS Case Slick and have never had a problem at all. (I think that's why I was able to blast through 60 cases without even realizing I was wrecking the cases. I never even thought to look for dents.) But I've now damaged about 70 cases using a water soluble spray, two different aerosol lubes, and now a paste lube.

It has become obvious to me by now that these RCBS dies are complete garbage and are ruining my cases (this is the 2nd RCBS die I've used on this.) The only issue I had prior to this, when I was neck sizing only, was the cases were getting to the point that they would no longer load into my chamber. So, at this point, I'm done with this. I'm no longer going to FL size these .243 Win chases, and I'm going back to NO sizing. Enough is enough, and 70 cases is enough. Going forward, when I get a case that won't load, I will just consider it the end of life for that case and discard it. That's a lot easier than the time, money, and frustration I've had trying to FL size just to extend case life. I've spent days working on this, and now I'm against the wall with a match tomorrow morning and zero ammo loaded for it.
I would suggest saving them up as PIF’s.
 
It took me a few days to get back to this, but here is an update.

I removed and disassembled the FL Sizing die, and I cleaned it out with brake cleaner. Reassembled and set the decapping pin to protrude 3/16 inch. (Saw that on an RCBS Youtube channel video.) Installed and set up as normal. First problem I noticed: at least on my press (Lee Classic Turret) there is absolutely no possible way to install this die in such a way that the lock ring does not cover the vent hole. It just can't be done. Once installed properly, the vent hole is only one or two threads from the press. Once I tighten the lock ring, that' sit; it's covered. The only other option is to remove the lock ring.

Found some Hornady Unique paste type wax. (It was all that was available.) Used my fingers to apply a film to just the wall of the case and rim, no wax on the shoulder or above. Used twice fired, previously neck-sized only cases. No more screeching, chattering, or noise at all, no more dented cases. A little more force required than I would like, but otherwise, it worked. For about 10 cases. Then the denting came back. Very minor and only one or two at first. Now, big dents every single case.

So, I'm pretty frustrated. Also, I would like to point out that I FL size 30-06 cases on a Lee FL sizer for my M1 using RCBS Case Slick and have never had a problem at all. (I think that's why I was able to blast through 60 cases without even realizing I was wrecking the cases. I never even thought to look for dents.) But I've now damaged about 70 cases using a water soluble spray, two different aerosol lubes, and now a paste lube.

It has become obvious to me by now that these RCBS dies are complete garbage and are ruining my cases (this is the 2nd RCBS die I've used on this.) The only issue I had prior to this, when I was neck sizing only, was the cases were getting to the point that they would no longer load into my chamber. So, at this point, I'm done with this. I'm no longer going to FL size these .243 Win chases, and I'm going back to NO sizing. Enough is enough, and 70 cases is enough. Going forward, when I get a case that won't load, I will just consider it the end of life for that case and discard it. That's a lot easier than the time, money, and frustration I've had trying to FL size just to extend case life. I've spent days working on this, and now I'm against the wall with a match tomorrow morning and zero ammo loaded for it.
Just curious and I'm not up on the current practices but I always thought neck sizing was much more accurate then FL sizing, I would think going into a match neck sizing would be the way to go. Also I would not throw the towel in, just get over your match, take a break and revisit the issue in the near future.
 
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