Did anybody see the new S&W wheelguns yet?

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Am I reading the new models right on the S+W web site? It appears the 619 is the 4" 65 (no ejector shroud and "fixed" sights) except L framed and 7 shot?

The 620 appears the same as a 66 (shrouded ejector and adjustable sights) also "L" framed and 7 shot? Is the full lug ejector shroud on the 686+ the only difference from the 620?

Funny they make a M64 in 3" but not the M619? It would appear a 620
2-1/2" would be no different than a 686+. Anyone know of plans for a 2,
2-1/2 or 3" 619?
 
Boats said,
and the Ruger lock is well away from recoil forces.

What on earth are you talking about? The STEEL frame of the gun "soaks up" all the recoil before it gets to the lock in the grip or what?
 
I never have been "into" the mtn gun look. I don't know why but that thin muzzle just doesn't look right to me. And knowing the balance of the 4" N frames, I would imagine that light barrel will throw it off even more. Now if they can make it with a standard barrel I'd be really, really tempted to go get some 41mag dies.
 
Brasso,
If you don't like the classic tapered barrel of the MG then get a 4" M57-3. Almost the same revolver, but it's minus a couple of features (lock, RB, and frame mounted firing pin).
 
All you Ruger fans, Dont Worry Ruger is putting a lock on all its new revolvers too so you dont feel left out.

My New Vaquero has one, and it came with two keys.

Ruger revolvers now come with an internal lock?

Well that settles it.....my next revolver will be S&W. Since both now will have locks, I might as well go with the one without the stupid (read manual) printed all over one side of the barrel.

I'm glad I bought Ruger revolvers when they still did NOT have the locks....
 
Couple of months later. Millions of rnds. No new stories about those infernal locks having trouble. I think that has to say it all on the reliability of them. Just put a new 629 classic on layaway.
kid
 
Locks are sooooo DUMB..

how many more smiths would they sell if they OFFERED a 'no lock' version, (special order) at no extra charge? AND made you buy a nice triggerlock, with two keys, and charged what it really costs? Just made you buy a bluidy lock that you could take off and leave off. ? ?
It'd cover their liability, give the anti-gunners no toehold, and please heck out of us Classic lovers. how is that bad marketing? I know I'd pay 15-20$ for a lock i didn't want or need, before i'd Ever buy something with a hole in the sideplate.

the mandatory part is what sucks about the lock.. not the idea of 'lockable' .. :cuss:
 
New S&W's at my pusher's:

5" 60 - Barf!
4" 620 - Gotta get one... less than an oz more mass than the 4" 66
4" 619 - Nice - I'll take an adj sight
625JM - Super bargain - bought one by mid-Feb - best S&W purchase in years
629MG - Nice - had one for years - buy X-frame grips for Magnums
432PD - Cute - still want one

There you have my sightings... I still want a 620 and 432PD. I have considered a 'spare' 629MG, too. Those .500 Magnum grips really helped with .44 Magnums. The .460 doesn't interest me as much as it would have a year ago... my desire for big thumpers having waned a bit. The 625JM is indeed a bargain, if you like the Miculek stocks... more so considering the hard-chromed trigger & hammer - and easily changed gold bead front sight.

On the other front, I probably have bought my last Ruger for a while. Okay, I still want a 4" SP-101 in .32....

Stainz
 
I was able to see and handle one of the PC 29's this weekend when S&W gave away 4 of them at the Carolina Cup (sanctioned regional IDPA match) in Oxford NC. Beautiful gun. Nice high-polish blue, smooth operation, and well balanced with that slant-lug thing they've arranged for it. Really a covetable gun. Without shooting it, I don't know how that all-glowy-orange front sight (same as on the scandium-framed 8-shot 357) would work for me, but it's the easily interchangeable system and comes with an alternate patridge black blade if you don't like the bright orange front blade.

Here's the gun I'm talking about:

http://www.firearms.smith-wesson.com/store/index.php3?cat=294735&item=1281556&sw_activeTab=3
 
bubbaturbo's post:

Boats said,
Quote:
and the Ruger lock is well away from recoil forces.


What on earth are you talking about? The STEEL frame of the gun "soaks up" all the recoil before it gets to the lock in the grip or what?

No, the recoil impulse is generated in the chamber and barrel area and that force tends to travel straight back opposite the path of bullet travel. S&W's lock is right alongside a rebounding hammer, in line with the brunt of the equal and opposite reaction of the firing. The Ruger lock is a mainspring lock that is relatively isolated at the distant end of a grip stud (as proposed on the DA revolvers anyway) about 110 degrees offset from the recoil push, of which any shock and vibration can't help but be mitigated by the grip which encases the stud itself.

The Ruger lock, (which is being forced on it by California legislation) is a model of invisibility compared to S&W's and I will bet it will be able to be removed or deactivated permanently with no cosmetic telltale, just like the safety paragraph can be.
 
Rather than a S&W model 57, I'd be more interested in a model 58 (fixed sights), preferably in stainless steel.
 
The Ruger lock is a mainspring lock that is relatively isolated at the distant end of a grip stud (as proposed on the DA revolvers anyway) about 110 degrees offset from the recoil push, of which any shock and vibration can't help but be mitigated by the grip which encases the stud itself.
That's a very interesting point of view. Mine is a little different and I guess I'll just leave it at that.



I will bet it will be able to be removed or deactivated permanently with no cosmetic telltale, just like the safety paragraph can be
I'm guessing the safety paragraph refers to the warning on the side of the barrel. I just looked at my blued 22/45 and it is engraved into the metal. What exactly would be the process for removing that without harming the cosmetics of the gun?
 
My Ruger doesn't have a lock. :cool:

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No safety paragraph either. I sanded it off. Were it blued, I'd do the same but reblue it afterwards. There is precious little that can be done with S&W holes without professional assistance.
 
Lots of smiths remove the warning on Rugers. I'm not sure how, but the results often look like this: classic.jpg from Gary Reeder
and this one from Hamilton Bowen
RS08.jpg


This
AH02_49_1x1.jpg


And this one (one of my favorites)
AH02_48_1x1.jpg

AH02_48_2x1.jpg

AH02_48_3x1.jpg
:rolleyes:

Sorry 'bout the screwy pics, but they get the point across...
 
Those are really nice pictures.

What is up with the Ruger Single-action with a Bisley hammer but a standard plow-handle grip? Must be customized?
 
I took delivery of my Performance Center 29 last week after much hassle with JSC. (Jerry's Sports Centers, the exclusive distributor) My dealer literally sent his FFL to them four times before they managed to get things straight and tell him which location to send it to. Spending nearly $900 has never been so difficult. That aside....

Overall I'm impressed with the piece. The dark wood grips are gorgeous, the frame blueing is good, and it handles and shoots well. I'm a big fan of the unfluted cylinder look, but am told that the revolver is available with either cylinder type. The PC stainless matte trigger and hammer contrast nicely with the blued finish. I put a variety of .44 ammo through it, both my target loads and some factory full power rounds, without issue. The PC trigger is crisp and compares favorably to my early 70's 29. The DA needs some breaking in, but the SA is very nice much like the other PC guns I've handled.

The fiber / flourescent front site might be nice for some but my range uses orange / red targets which makes it a liability. I've swaped it out for the gold bead partridge style sight which should improve things a bit. Changing the sights was very easy.

It's a "4 screw" with the 4th screw at the top of the sideplate much like older smiths. However the screw is a different diameter/type, it looks more like the sight adjustment screws than the other sideplate screws. This sort of detracts from the vintage look I think Smith is going for. I don't own any vintage 4 screw Smiths so perhaps this isn't odd?

Gripes:
Cylinder Blueing is lousy, I own almost a dozen blued S&W's from the 60's to the present and this the worst blueing I have ever seen on a smith. It's mottled, unevenly and thinly applied. The extractor star was also poorly blued. Cleaning of the cylinder after one shooting session showed wear on the finish. Perhaps this is a symptom of smith not blueing much anymore? I'm considering sending the gun back to have the cylinder redone. Has anyone with a new 586, 520 or 10 seen this?

The grips are massive and blocky around the trigger guard. I'm used to the older smith target grips on K/L/N frames and they fit my hand better. The PC grips are gorgeous but I may swap them out with some hogues or miculek wood grips like on my 625.

There's a provided weaver rail scope mount that you afix with four allen screws. Unfortunately there's also matte metal place holder on top of the barrel which substitutes if you don't use the mount. It's unfinished metal and looks butt ugly on such a nice piece.

Just my $0.02.....
 
Surefire wrote...
Those are really nice pictures.
What is up with the Ruger Single-action with a Bisley hammer but a standard plow-handle grip? Must be customized?

All the guns are customs. Some examples of Gary Reeder and Hamilton Bowen's art. Click the links and check them out. You will be amazed... :D
 
I'm happy with my 620. I was shopping for a 686 with a longer barrel than my snubby 686+ but they had nothing in stock. Saw the 620 and thought I'd give it a try. 500+ rounds. So far so good, and quite accurate.
 
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