Dies for .45 ACP?
- Thread starter Buck13
- Start date
I started with a Lyman only because it was the only game in town at the time.
RCBS and Redding both use the M-die profile in the current expanders. I prefer the Redding, but only because it matches the Competition Seating die...and I got it on a Clearence Sale when they were bringing in their latest coating
gwpercle
Member
My 45 acp dies are Lyman and it was the first die set I ever owned that had a Carbide Sizing Die.
I was in hog heaven with those chrome plated carbide dies , still using them ...
they must be 45 years old but are still doing a good job .
Gary
I was in hog heaven with those chrome plated carbide dies , still using them ...
they must be 45 years old but are still doing a good job .
Gary
BushMaster-15
member
RCBS Dillon and Hornady . It really doesn't matter it's a straight wall pistol case and a piece of pipe with the bore would work .
cheoah
Member
I agree about the Lee one, especially with new brass. I use a Hornady now for flaring, Otherwise I use Lee dies in my Hornady LnL. I also tried a Redding expander in 45 ACP and it did not work at all in the LnL. After the Redding didn't work I defaulted to the press manufacturers expander die, the "custom grade new dimension expander die" and it is fantastic. I can seat in new brass and dial it in just so it doesn't shave, but not too much flare. Went ahead and got one to use with my 9mm and 38/357 Lee carbide sets
For ammunition where I change bullets, mostly rifle ammunition, I like micrometer seating dies. They are not necessarily more precise, but they make adjusting the seater a breeze especially if you record the settings for each bullet.
Hand gun ammunition, I tend to use the same bullet once I find one I like. So, the standard seater stem is more than adequate.
A few posts ago, Dillon dies were brought up. I understand that they are excellent but the way I reload on a progressive press, I need a conventional neck expander die. Dillon expects one to use the neck expander in the powder drop die to expand the case mouth
So, if I bought a Dillon die set, I’d still have to buy a neck expander die.
I resize the cases and neck size on the first pass through the progressive. I then clean my cases. At a later time, I. charge the case and seat the bullet on a second pass through the progressive.
Hand gun ammunition, I tend to use the same bullet once I find one I like. So, the standard seater stem is more than adequate.
A few posts ago, Dillon dies were brought up. I understand that they are excellent but the way I reload on a progressive press, I need a conventional neck expander die. Dillon expects one to use the neck expander in the powder drop die to expand the case mouth
So, if I bought a Dillon die set, I’d still have to buy a neck expander die.
I resize the cases and neck size on the first pass through the progressive. I then clean my cases. At a later time, I. charge the case and seat the bullet on a second pass through the progressive.
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CQB45ACP
Member
I’m not a fan of Redding’s customer service either. I’m not saying they won’t eventually do what you want, they just make it a pain to get there. Twice I’ve experienced the same attitude. Kind of reminded me of old tech support joke that their required first response is “have you tried rebooting?”I started with an RCBS .45 ACP die set. The sizer was a bit large and wouldn't size RP cases enough, so I called RCBS and they sent me another sizer. Well, it sure would size cases down, talk about bottle necked all to heck, so I continued to use the other sizer and avoid RP cases for awhile. Then I ordered a Redding sizer and it was perfect, but the carbide ring came out, I put it back in and it lasted for awhile, but came out again. I called Redding and they sent me another sizer, but it scraped/gouged cases where the case entered the ring. I called them and they basically told me I didn't know how to use a sizer. Sigh, so I bought a Lyman sizer, and it's near perfect. I replaced the expander with a Redding "M-Die" type expander (Before RCBS started doing it as well), and since I was using so many different .45 ACP bullets, I bought a Redding Competition seater so it was easy to dial back and forth between bullets. I then bought a Redding taper crimp die to crimp after sating with the Competition seater.
That's where my .45 ACP die set stands today.
View attachment 1125517
Needless to say, it's hard for me to buy Redding anymore, despite the fact they make very good stuff.
OP
OP
Buck13
Member
I have a couple/three Lee die sets that include the factory crimp die, mostly revolver cartridges. I've virtually never used it. With cast lead bullets, people complain that it swages down the bullet diameter, which is probably the last thing I need in my revos. Is this not a concern in .45 ACP?
I might be using 185 or 200 grain HAPs, if I can find them, but will likely be using coated lead SWCs of the same weights.
When I want more than a very light crimp, I back out the seater plug in the regular seating/crimping die and apply the crimp as a final step. This does have the disadvantage of needing to adjust the seating depth before the next batch of ammo, of course...
I might be using 185 or 200 grain HAPs, if I can find them, but will likely be using coated lead SWCs of the same weights.
When I want more than a very light crimp, I back out the seater plug in the regular seating/crimping die and apply the crimp as a final step. This does have the disadvantage of needing to adjust the seating depth before the next batch of ammo, of course...
It was enough of a concern for me to stop using it when loading coated bullets in .45ACP for my S&W 625.
The FCD was sometimes a lifesaver when I first started reloading. As I learned to set up my die correctly, the FCD pretty much became redundant and finally took it's place in a drawer. The only time it comes out is when I've run a big batch, 1k+, of 9mm practice ammo and I have 2-3 that won't pass the case gauge. I'll run them through the FCD just to save the time to tear them down
OLDE RETIRED COASTIE
Member
I originally purcased three die sets of lee rcbs and lyman, and purchased all of them with carbide sizer dies. I also puchased factory crimp dies for all my reloading. 32 H & R, .380, 9 mm, 38 super, 38/357, 45 acp, and 45 colt.
7all with carbide sizing dies, and all with factory crimp dies. I also load for 2 rifles, .30-06, and 45-70, both with factory crimp dies. While I might be able to find a carbide sizer for the 45-70, would be expensive. but as far as I know the 30-06 being a bottle nosed round, no carbide die available. Just lube, size, and load
7all with carbide sizing dies, and all with factory crimp dies. I also load for 2 rifles, .30-06, and 45-70, both with factory crimp dies. While I might be able to find a carbide sizer for the 45-70, would be expensive. but as far as I know the 30-06 being a bottle nosed round, no carbide die available. Just lube, size, and load
OLDE RETIRED COASTIE
Member
I have to be honest , used the 45 colt with lead bullets with the factory crimp die, but so far not used it on coated bullets. But the coated bullets I have now are the first ones I have loaded , always used just lead bullets
CQB45ACP
Member
Every time I read this sort of comment not this specific one, I scratch my head and wonder why someone would adjust an FCD to swage a bullet if they don’t want the FCD to swage a bullet? Just use it as the taper crimp die it is. What am I missing?
I have FCDs & Redding taper crimp dies. None have ever swaged a bullet on their own unless it was after I’ve turned in for the night.
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irishlad
Contributing Member
Here comes the Lee FCD debate!
CQB45ACP
Member
I know but I’m still curious I really don’t get it.
Nature Boy
Member
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2015
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- 8,272
My 45 ACP dies are Dillon carbide. I’ve happy with them but I’m sure others are just as good
irishlad
Contributing Member
I believe it was Walkalong who said people like them or hate them. I like them and use them on all my pistol rounds. I get great amusement from those bashing them and belittling those who use them. Almost every thread about them they state you aren't loading correctly if you use them. They've loaded 1000s of rounds and never needed one. They shoot some kind of competition and don't use them. Their mentor who has reloaded for 50 years told them not to use them. Etc.
They do exactly what Lee says they will do. I also like the wet vs dry tumbling threads too!!
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OLDE RETIRED COASTIE
Member
I did not mean to start a row, talking about fcd from Lee. I was having problems with my loading and went to a factory crimp die and now no problems
...and is maybe me, but sometimes the three die set did not seem to crimp enough
...so I spent the money for crimp dies for all cartridges I load for
...and is maybe me, but sometimes the three die set did not seem to crimp enough
...so I spent the money for crimp dies for all cartridges I load for
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irishlad
Contributing Member
I don't think ya did. It's a piece of equipment that some folks have strong opinions about.
The carbide insert is what swages the bullet, not the amount of crimp set. They are actually good crimp dies, sans the carbide ring. That said, there are tolerances and the carbide rings aren't all as tight as some others......they vary. My .40 was good to go, the .45 ACP not so much, they sit idle in a drawer.
Adjust the sizer body down farther and it will.
An old FCD post of mine.
From the link:
"The FCD will squeeze it down and make it fit, and the new reloader pats themselves on the back and calls it good, whereas if they hadn't used it they would eventually run into a problem with a tight (Within spec but tight) chamber and learn to fix the issues by adjustment of dies/user improvement of starting bullets straighter. (Even sliding sleeve seaters do a better job of seating bullets straight if they start out straighter. I have proven that to myself. They cannot totally fix a sloppy start of the bullet.)
A lot of pistol gamers use them so everything will absolutely fit and not cause a stoppage during a competition, as the penalties are so severe for a stoppage. Some use a case gauge and check all rounds, some do both. Things happen, fat bullets, got one a little crooked being in a hurry loading 500 or 1K rounds for matches, and the FCD will make sure you don't have a stoppage due to a fat reload.
I look at the FCD as an "advanced" reloaders tool, not a beginners tool.
I'll say again, if you are feeling a fair amount of resistance of your reloads in the carbide ring of the FCD on a lot/all of your rounds, stop and investigate, because something is amiss, even if it is simply an undersized FCD. You should be feeling very light to almost no resistance in the carbide ring."
From the link:
"The FCD will squeeze it down and make it fit, and the new reloader pats themselves on the back and calls it good, whereas if they hadn't used it they would eventually run into a problem with a tight (Within spec but tight) chamber and learn to fix the issues by adjustment of dies/user improvement of starting bullets straighter. (Even sliding sleeve seaters do a better job of seating bullets straight if they start out straighter. I have proven that to myself. They cannot totally fix a sloppy start of the bullet.)
A lot of pistol gamers use them so everything will absolutely fit and not cause a stoppage during a competition, as the penalties are so severe for a stoppage. Some use a case gauge and check all rounds, some do both. Things happen, fat bullets, got one a little crooked being in a hurry loading 500 or 1K rounds for matches, and the FCD will make sure you don't have a stoppage due to a fat reload.
I look at the FCD as an "advanced" reloaders tool, not a beginners tool.
I'll say again, if you are feeling a fair amount of resistance of your reloads in the carbide ring of the FCD on a lot/all of your rounds, stop and investigate, because something is amiss, even if it is simply an undersized FCD. You should be feeling very light to almost no resistance in the carbide ring."
41 Mag
Member
I use a Lee 3 die set I've had for years. Couldn't say exactly how many they've loaded but it has been at least 4 MFRB's of brass plus a 1K box of once new Starline.
I've run a bunch through them and they still keep making good ammo. Nowadays I run mostly H&G SWC's in either 170, 185, 200, or 215gr. I did reconfigure a seater with a hollow stem plug.
Personally I don't know if another brand would help me shoot any better, so I'll just keep plugging away with these.
I've run a bunch through them and they still keep making good ammo. Nowadays I run mostly H&G SWC's in either 170, 185, 200, or 215gr. I did reconfigure a seater with a hollow stem plug.
Personally I don't know if another brand would help me shoot any better, so I'll just keep plugging away with these.
Maybe that you can't adjust a FCD to not swage a lead bullet. What swages the bullet is the ring just inside the mouth of the die. If the loaded round enters the die, the bullet is swaged...if you haven't removed the ring.
I'm curious to hear how you thought the FCD's swaging function could be adjusted
