Dillon case lube substitute

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I've been using Dillon case lube (DCL) with excellent results for a long, long time. I really don't want to go to a different brand, unless it's going to be nearly identical. I definitely don't want to use an aerosol type, it has to be the pump type bottle. So does anyone know of a lube that is going to be a close substitute for DCL? I can't find DCL any where locally, and ordering it online is going to cost me twice as much, like $17 - $22 when the product only costs $8 off the shelf. My last bottle lasted for better than 2K rounds of brass, maybe more, and it doesn't gunk up my media like some of the other lubes I've used.

GS
 
Hornady One Shot is also available in a pump bottle. It's in that $20 range, but it's a big bottle.
 
You can make Dillon Case lube with some lanolin and 99% alcohol. It's going to cost you a little less than $20 up front (lanolin cost) but that will make you many, many bottles of Dillon Case Lube.
 
I'm gonna blaspheme and tell you that I use water based wire pulling lubricant dissolved in Windex. Slicker than you can believe and lubes even when it's dry. Wipes off of cases easily and is non toxic. I use old butter spray bottles and mix a generous glob of the wire pulling lube to a couple ounces of Windex.

I avoid getting a lot of it inside the cases by turning the cases mouth down when I spray 'em or just wet a paper towel or case lube pad with the stuff and give it a quick swipe before it hits the press.

Someone will probably be concerned with powder contamination and I will caution you that if you have doubts leave it alone - I personally have never had any issues and $14 worth of lube is like a quart of the stuff.

Literally $20 will make enough for years and years.

VooDoo
 
Good idea Vodoun... I like it.

I've used Lee case lube in a tube... works fine.

I've also used Imperial Sizing Die Lube. This is also great (and easy to use). I just wipe all my fingers across the surface then mix up the brass in a bowl (or gallon ziplock bag) like I was mixing dough. Super fast and it works! But only lube what you'll use in a session because it seems like it doesn't work quite as good if it dries a few days.
 
Lanolin dissolved in alcohol is what virtually all of the commercial pump lubes are. I know that's the case with the stuff Cabela's sells and I'm told the Dillon stuff is lanolin as well. The RCBS pump lube I bought years ago was also lanolin but they used hexane or some other alkane as a solvent rather than isopropanol like most do. It still worked the same, just smelled different when it dried.

Wire pulling lube is a water based wax. I really like it because it's not sticky or gummy when it dries like the lanolin based lubes are. The Lee case lube dissolved in alcohol also works great in a pump sprayer and it is also a non-sticky wax. I've been using it for years for loading .223 in a progressive loader. It does have a tendency to settle out over time, but you can just give it a good shake and it's ready to go.
 
No issue with me on rust *but* I am obsessive/compulsive with reloading and the tools and dies. I'll lube and full length resize maybe 200 cases popping the old primers and then immediately expand the mouths then all of them get soaked and cleaned/scrubbed by hand. I clean every primer pocket and use a nylon case brush inside every case.

Then I pour all the dirty, soapy water out of my cases and rinse them and set 'em aside by the dehumidifier in the basement shop to dry. While that's happening I completely clean my dies with Hoppe's and relube them inside and out with Break free CLP and rebox 'em.

Here is the lube I use:
10F536_AW01.JPG


Never had rust. The Windex tends to evaporate and so does the wire pulling lube fairly quickly and just leave a non sticky lubricating substance...it doesn't stay soapy or wet very long and the Break Free seems to "condition" the dies after a period of time and use. I think it's a polymer of some type.

VooDoo
 
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^^ You could use the wire pull lube with the isopropyl alcohol instead of Windex as it will dry faster. Also Windex has a bit of ammonia in it IIRC. I use the liquid lanolin from the local health food store and the isopropyl is just dry gas from the auto parts store. Just make sure it is not another type of alcohol. I use the Iso-Heat brand that is available hereabouts. Use it in your old spray bottle and you will never know the difference. I use a 20 to 1 ratio as that seems about the same as other lubes. I do not bother to warm it in a water bath when mixing. I just give the bottle two or three vigorous shakes before I pump the sprayer each time I start to use it.

PS: I am an electrician and personally I like the lanolin mix better than wire pulling lube (that I can get free).;)
 
Lanolin and 80% isopropyl alcohol will not work very well. Too much water in the mix.

I have been experimenting with 91% isopropyl alcohol and it seems to work pretty well.

99% isopropyl is supposed to work better but it is harder to find than 91%. Supposedly, one of the Heet gas dryers is 99% isopropyl alcohol but I forget which color bottle. Some pharmacies carry 99% isopropyl but I understand you have to ask for it.

I put enough lanolin in a bottle so that after mixing and the mixture has a chance to settle, there is a little lanolin at the bottom of the bottle. I then decant the alcohol/lanolin mixture to a spray bottle leaving the excess lanolin behind. It is something like 8 to 12 parts alcohol to 1 part lanolin.

Make sure you leave enough time for the alcohol to flash off.
 
Castor oil and 91% alcohol. I haven't played with it enough to get the ratio just right (probably about 1:4) but it's cheaper, easier to find, and dissolves better than lanolin.
 
The Heet you're referring to is ISO Heet and comes in the red bottles. 2 bucks plus change at Wally World.

I use the ISO Heet mixed with a tube of Lee's Resizing Lube (less than 3 bucks) (12 oz Heet bottle to 2oz tube).

Gets the job done.
 
I am glad someone else asked this question

In answer to the original question, as far as what is available off the shelf,, I have not had good luck with Cabelas or the Hornday spray Lubes. The Dillon spray is hands down the best. I like the idea of making my own. Where do you buy Lanolin?
 
I've used Cabela's spray lube for years. I've only had one stuck case and it was a .223 and I changed my application process a little. I lay the cases in an old cake pan and spray them after really shaking the bottle, shake the pan to roll the cases, and then spray them again. Let them set a couple of minutes and spray them again. I've never stuck a case in any caliber after adopting this method of application. A bottle lasts a long, long time, even double spraying.

I've read a lot of negative comments about Hornady's spray lube but hardly any about Dillion's and Cabela's. For all I know they may be made by the same company and just put in bottles with different labels.
 
I recently got 99% isopropyl alcohol at Safeway where it as on the bottom shelf and I didn't have to go to the pharmacy. I got lanolin at the Albertson's pharmacy. They had to order it in but it was there the next day. At that time the price for the lanolin was $11 for a pound. Shop around though. At the same time the King Soopers near me wanted over $30 for a pound.
 
LEE case lube mixed with rubbing alcohol in a used little spritz bottle.It is water soluble but needs to be really shaken, not stirred. 10% lube to 90% water or alcohol. Put blue food color in it so you think it's expensive Dillon:)

LEE lube is also just wire pulling lube. You can get a qt at Lowes or Homers to last a lifetime. There is no magic to case lube it is all basically the same stuff,

Lanolin works also found at the drug store.
 
Thanks for the tip Rule3. I just got my first tube and have been wondering how to apply it. Also thx for the thread GS. PH
 
Thanks for the tip Rule3. I just got my first tube and have been wondering how to apply it. Also thx for the thread GS. PH

That's one way to apply it. You can just put a little on your finger tips and rub it around the brass and use a q tip inside the case mouth, Doing it that way is a waste IMHO. It takes very little to work. I stand the brass up in a plastic bin or tray and spritz lightly then shake them around. If you use 91% rubbing alcohol it dries real fast You do not need to wipe it off, If you want to wipe it off just use a damp rag
Much easier than say Imperial Wax which is great and lasts for ever but it's a pain to wipe off.
 
I have had great luck with Hornady One Shot..... my only use of cabela's is the ONE case that got stuck..... ended up tossing it....

One Thing I always do with .223 brass..... On 1st case of my 50 case cycles I use Synthetic Motor oil... It really lubes up the Die.... and have NEVER had an issue... even if a can of One Shot is getting Old (aresol Cans)... it will offset the OLD and make sure it works good.... With FRESH One Shot ( i prefer the liquid in my own spray bottle) it is like BUTTER for all 50 cases... then Next batch i do the same process.....

I always clean my Brass again after sizing so the Oil is always removed
 
I wanted to update this thread. Earlier I was using Ideal water based wire pulling lube with Windex in a spray bottle but recently became aware of potential brass embrittlement issues. While I have used this mix for years and never had a problem I figured it is not worth any risk of degraded cases.

So I now dilute my wire pulling lube with plain water and it works just fine. I'll try cutting it with alcohol eventually but I'd not advise folks to use Windex, Brasso, or any cleaners containing ammonia on their brass cases.

The less exposure of the brass cases to ammonia the better.

VooDoo
 
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