miamivicedade
Member
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- Jan 1, 2009
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All I can think about is cleaning guns, even when I just cleaned them and lubed them for short storage. Is it a good Idea to lube them and wipe them down every month?
Do I need help?
- Thread starter miamivicedade
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kimbernut
Member
It's OK.
It's OK, only if you shoot them all first.
It's OK, only if you shoot them all first.
PX15
Member
yes.
J.
J.
OP
OP
miamivicedade
Member
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2009
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- 294
if they sit without lube wont they rust?
jr_roosa
Member
Guns will go bad if you don't shoot them at least every month. They're almost as touchy as bananas.
Seriously, though, if you put on something like Eezox then put them in a synthetic gunsock then they will probably never need you to do anything to them ever again unless you live in a jungle on the seashore with a wind blowing salty sea mist into your open gun safe every day.
Thin gun oils like remoil evaporate over time. WD40 will leave a coating of sleaze on your gun that will prevent rust, but will also look just like rust and be almost as difficult to remove.
For ultra-long storage, cosmoline is the way to go with the wood parts removed and stored separately. Good luck getting that crap off in a hurry.
-J.
Seriously, though, if you put on something like Eezox then put them in a synthetic gunsock then they will probably never need you to do anything to them ever again unless you live in a jungle on the seashore with a wind blowing salty sea mist into your open gun safe every day.
Thin gun oils like remoil evaporate over time. WD40 will leave a coating of sleaze on your gun that will prevent rust, but will also look just like rust and be almost as difficult to remove.
For ultra-long storage, cosmoline is the way to go with the wood parts removed and stored separately. Good luck getting that crap off in a hurry.
-J.
The Lone Haranguer
Member
Once a month is not a bad idea at all.
FROGO207
Member
YOU CAN GO A MONTH WITHOUT SHOOTING ALL YOUR FIREARMS!!!
If I did that the whole ammo and cleaning industry would collapse.
Personally I like the repetitive field stripping that helps me remain proficient in doing it expediently.
If I did that the whole ammo and cleaning industry would collapse.
Personally I like the repetitive field stripping that helps me remain proficient in doing it expediently.
I will simply copy my post from the recent "Oil or grease in the bore" thread:
As a milsurp collector with 100+ in the collection, I have weapons that I have not fired in many years (or at all in a few cases.) Earlier this year I decided to go through the entire collection, and clean them all. Please note that all had been cleaned before they were put away. Some had not been touched in 15 years, and the majority had not been touched in 5. Storage is inside a climate controlled home.
Over the years, I have used different preservatives to prevent rust: Remoil, 3 in 1 oil, Breakfree CLP, a mix of mineral oil and beeswax, Johnson's past wax, ATF, Mobil 1, and RIG.
None of the good condition guns had any rust, and the old pitted antiques had no active rust in the pits. I saw no difference in those stored with any of the above preservatives. Remember these are guns stored between 5 and 15 years.
P.S - I shoot corrosive ammo as well, and none of the milsurps that I shoot corrosive ammo through had any issues either. When shooting corrosive ammo, I typically use hot water followed by dry patches and WD40 at the range, followed up with Hoppes and wiping down the bolt when I get home. Currently, I use RIG on metal and beeswax softened with mineral oil on wood for storage. I use Breakfree CLP on frequently fired guns.
I think the danger of damaging wood stacks with excessive oiling is more likely than danger from rust.
As a milsurp collector with 100+ in the collection, I have weapons that I have not fired in many years (or at all in a few cases.) Earlier this year I decided to go through the entire collection, and clean them all. Please note that all had been cleaned before they were put away. Some had not been touched in 15 years, and the majority had not been touched in 5. Storage is inside a climate controlled home.
Over the years, I have used different preservatives to prevent rust: Remoil, 3 in 1 oil, Breakfree CLP, a mix of mineral oil and beeswax, Johnson's past wax, ATF, Mobil 1, and RIG.
None of the good condition guns had any rust, and the old pitted antiques had no active rust in the pits. I saw no difference in those stored with any of the above preservatives. Remember these are guns stored between 5 and 15 years.
P.S - I shoot corrosive ammo as well, and none of the milsurps that I shoot corrosive ammo through had any issues either. When shooting corrosive ammo, I typically use hot water followed by dry patches and WD40 at the range, followed up with Hoppes and wiping down the bolt when I get home. Currently, I use RIG on metal and beeswax softened with mineral oil on wood for storage. I use Breakfree CLP on frequently fired guns.
I think the danger of damaging wood stacks with excessive oiling is more likely than danger from rust.
Pocket Rocket
Member
545days,
Are you talking about damaging the wood by exposing it to oil? I typically wipe down my wood stocks with Remoil after cleaning.
Are you talking about damaging the wood by exposing it to oil? I typically wipe down my wood stocks with Remoil after cleaning.
Yes, Oil soaking into the wood, especially end grain around the tang will ultimately damage wood stocks. The damage initially appears as darkening of the wood around the metal. This is a very common problem with military surplus weapons that have been preserved in grease for years. To a lesser degree, old hunting rifles and shotguns also commonly have discoloration around the action, grip and tang due to oil. There are a number of websites for milsurp collectors with forums dedicated to removing oil from stocks.
The best preservative for a stock is wax based, either Renaissance Wax (often used by museum conservators) or Johnson's Paste Wax.
It can also be desirable to store rifles muzzle down, to prevent oils from running down onto the end grain around the tang. I store rifles both butt down and muzzle down in order to maximize the number or rifles I can cram into a safe. By using a thin film on metal parts instead of a heavy coat, I have avoided issues with oil soaking into the wood.
Edit: After researching waxes a bit in preparation for this reply, I think I will switch from beeswax softened with mineral oil to renaissance wax on my stocks. It is expensive, but what the heck.
The best preservative for a stock is wax based, either Renaissance Wax (often used by museum conservators) or Johnson's Paste Wax.
It can also be desirable to store rifles muzzle down, to prevent oils from running down onto the end grain around the tang. I store rifles both butt down and muzzle down in order to maximize the number or rifles I can cram into a safe. By using a thin film on metal parts instead of a heavy coat, I have avoided issues with oil soaking into the wood.
Edit: After researching waxes a bit in preparation for this reply, I think I will switch from beeswax softened with mineral oil to renaissance wax on my stocks. It is expensive, but what the heck.
Last edited:
GunsAmerica Fan
Member
You can spray with Rem Oil (available at walmart) and wipe them down, being careful to get no fingerprints, and they are good for a long long time. A silicone sock helps too. I leave guns in them like that indefinately. The other thing as I've posted here is a goldenrod in your safe. You never have to worry about rust at all.
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