Frog Lube review - Nice

[AK103K]

I posted this the other day over at TFL, figgured Id save the typing.


I used it for a couple of years and have since gone back to good old Hoppes for cleaning, and depending on the gun, either Tetra oil, Lubri-Plate, or TW25b for lubes.

One thing I started to notice more and more with the Frog Lube was, how things that were cleaned and put away for even fairly short periods, were starting to gum up and become sluggish. I always followed their directions, and as with any of them, used it very sparingly as a lube.

Another thing I noticed with one of my revolvers was, light rust forming in the chamber mouths, and only a few days after cleaning. I hadnt had that with any of the other guns Id used it with, so I dont know what was up there.

One other concern I had with FL was copper removal, which as far as I could ever discern, it didnt. I also tried their solvent", which I didnt think did anything at all, and was pretty much worthless, and a total waste of money.

Since going back to what I was using before, I havent had any of the above issues, and Ive got a few extra bucks in my pocket, as Im not spending what I was on the Frog Lube, which is pretty pricey and seems to get used up a good bit quicker.

 

[Warp]

Copper fouling definitely isn't something to use FrogLube CLP for, if you want it to go anywhere.

Really, the CLP is a lube. If you want to CLEAN, use a cleaner.

 

[AK103K]

The FL CLP seemed to do OK at cleaning as far as powder residue goes, although I found it usually took a good bit more to get the same results. The stuff isnt cheap, and the bottle goes pretty quick, especially if you shoot/clean a lot.

The sales pitch I got when I first bought it was, things would get easier the more you used it. I think its the same pitch used by the electric razor salesmen. Over time, the more you use the electric, and the less you use a "real" razor, the less you notice the electric really isnt working as well. You just lost your comparison, thats all. Switch them up, and its pretty obvious the first time you go back to the blade.

As I mentioned, the "solvent" they sell was pretty much worthless too. I was told that it did remove copper fouling, which as far as I could tell, it did not. It really didnt remove anything. I also found the CLP did a better job at getting powder fouling out.

About the only real plus I can see to it, was the smell. I generally didnt catch any grief over it. Some of the other stuff, will get you run off.

 

[ohbythebay]

Its interesting

Some experience that is in direct opposition to the tests. I have no gum issues but maybe because I clean first....A lube is a lube, a cleaner is a cleaner.

Also, rust after a few days after cleaning ? I am sorry if I am skeptical.

The good thing is...we all have choices !

 

[AK103K]

I have no gum issues but maybe because I clean first....A lube is a lube, a cleaner is a cleaner.

CLP's are, and have always been touted as "Cleaner", "Lube", "Protectant", which I never really bought into, with any of them. I have yet to find anything that claims to "do it all" to ever really come through in that respect.

I never really had any issue with the FL gumming on my autos, or rifles, but it became real obvious with my revolvers. Within a few days of cleaning, the cylinders were usually very sluggish. The longer they sat, the worse it seemed to be getting.

Also, rust after a few days after cleaning ? I am sorry if I am skeptical.

I was really surprised at that as well. I hadnt had the issue until then, but it did happen all the same. It hasnt happened since, but Im no longer using FL with that gun (S&W Model 28) either.


I started with FL pretty early on. I noticed that they have changed the wording of the directions a couple of times since I first started using it. When it first came out, you were supposed to "heat" the gun prior to use. The last number of bottles I had made no mention of it at all. Now I see that they only recommend that for "storage", and only in the directions on their web page.

Ive also seen variations in the CLP itself from bottle to bottle. Some seemed more watery than others, and some seemed extra thick.

 

[ohbythebay]

Thanks AK....

I didn't doubt YOU when I said I was skeptical (glad you didn't take it that way)...just strange...And you could be right about formula changes..

One other product I liked was breakfree clp...still have it..

I guess it boils down to how clean and lubed you keep them..I tend to be OCD..lol...After every shoot, stripped, cleaned, lubed...fun stuff to me...

Thanks

 

[AK103K]

I guess it boils down to how clean and lubed you keep them..I tend to be OCD..lol...After every shoot, stripped, cleaned, lubed...fun stuff to me...

Yup, me too.

The only stuff Ive found so far to stop rust, has been Eezox. It too was touted as a do all when I first found it, and I soon found it lacking in that respect. Rust prevention is its forte. I have a couple of guns and a bunch of tools in a basement thats constantly damp, even with a dehumidifier. Anything Ive treated with Eezox, has yet to show a speck of rust, even after a couple of years of sitting. Anything not treated, needs constant watching and attention.

 

[gym]

I had been using break free, CLP or triflow, for 20 yrs and never had any issues , no pitting or rust. And the guns always cleaned up perfectly with q tips and pipe cleaners. I figured I would try something new, so I bought it. I will try it a few times and se, but at the first sign of any gummy residue, I will toss it.