Do you believe in "gun break in?"

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I'm in the "test it out, but don't go crazy" camp.

A couple of my (bought new) hunting rifles required several hundred manipulations of the bolts to smooth things out to where I really liked it. Not reliability per se, but just easier function.

I've got several guns I've used for carry purposes -

An Ithaca 1911A1 that was re-parked over the rust pits and rattles when you shake it... But I can hit with it. It did require some testing to see what ammo it liked, and I found that only 1 of my mags would work with the old Black Talons. One mag was NOT reliable, I reserved that one for the range.


A Hungarian PPK copy, again, needed some testing for function. Hardball and Silvertips work fine in that one, and it only jammed once in the first 50 rounds. Secondary carry

Charter Bulldog in 44 Spl. had some roughness, pretty well worked itself out after a couple of hundred rounds.

Stainless Taurus PT 1911, mags work fine (at 200 rounds), no problems yet with function. Primary carry.

Really tight competition/custom guns, like others have mentioned, would probably benefit more than your run-of-the-mill production pieces.
 
I fit into the camp of obsessively cleaning bbls between shots when new, and various other techniques that are rumored to increase accuracy,reliablility, etc. Does it help? I don't know, but it sure doesn't hurt, and for as little time and effort it takes I think it is time well spent.
 
Let's look at an extreme example: Les Baer 1911s. They are, IMHO, absurdly tight. However, I'm not going to accuse the man of making anything less than fine handguns.

I would say that in general, match-grade, high-precision firearms might benefit from a break-in period during which some of the contact surfaces wear in.

Not meaning togo off topic, but Les Baer hand guns have had many rounds fired before they are sold to the end consumer. It's because of those tight tolerances that they are broken in before being sold. Exceptional quality and attention to detail.
 
A gun should work right out of the box. However, most will work a little better after a couple of hundred rounds, especially for ones that are really tight or that had some less-than-optimum machining somewhere.

Besides, be honest, would you consider carrying a personal firearm until you had done at least a couple of hundred rounds through it to build familiarity anyway? I don't care how many you have used, even of the same model, you should 'get to know' any specific gun you will be depending on if possible (yes, not always possible (if you have to use an armory-issued weapon while your regular one is down for some reason as an example), but usually possible).
 
It seems like a lot of .22's I've owned have been a little sticky and prone to various misfeeds and stovepipes at first. .22's have very little recoil energy, and very light slides so I'm sure any fitting issues are magnified. You shoot a few boxes and whatever burrs or fitting issues there are smooth out and the problems go away.

With that being true, I'm sure centerfire weapons also have issues, but with the heavier recoil and slide weights, they just aren't as apparent. Yet, as you shoot them the contact points do smooth out and the weapon operates more smoothly - even though the user may not be aware of that.

I'm not suggesting you need to do anything special - just shoot it.
 
I've only had two guns in my entire life that needed the break in. One was a great Bersa .380 that was definately worth the time. The other was a piece of garbage Springfield V10 that was never reliable despite hundreds of rounds, different mags and two trips back to the factory.
 
Yeah if I tend to get a few stovepipes and an occasional FTF within the first couple of hundred rounds I don't have a heart attack about it.

The slide and frame contact points are still rough and the recoil spring is still pretty stout, so the slide may not always get back far enough to fully eject the spent case or far enough back to catch the next round.

It's still new and tight and needs to loosen up a bit.

If it works perfect right out of the box it just means it's loose to begin with.


Of course if it is a real jam-o-matic that can't make it through a mag then yeah just shooting it won't make it into a reliable gun.
 
Kimber recomends you "break-in" you new match grade pistols with (I think) 300-400 rounds of quality factory FMJ round nose.

They don't say why, but I suspect that heat cycling a new match grade barrel with good clean ammo will make it easier to clean and less likely to have problems with fouling during its life time.

But, I also think Kimber uses this "recommendation" as a kind of catch-all for folks that send their pistols back complaining about jams and such.

I'm still amazed at the people who complain about this pistol, or that pistol, only to find out that in someone else's hands, they work just fine.
 
I just bought a Sig P220 about a week ago. The barrel and slide are very tightly fitted. I expected a few FTF until it broke in a little. I got one. It now has 200 rounds through it and it is working like a fine watch.
 
Do I believe in "gun break in". I do now.

The cylinder on a new Taurus .22 revolver that I bought was binding, due to the ejector star rubbing on the recoil shield in one small spot. Thought I'd give it a chance to self-correct before I sent it in for repair. I put a dab of grease on the contact spot, then proceeded to shoot thousands of rounds over the next few months. Now the cylinder turns as smooth as silk. Apparently the repeated metal on metal contact just wore off the high spot. That little gun is a workhorse, gets shot practically every week and runs like a champ.
 
Guns are mechanical devices, and, as such, need to be broken in to run their best. That doesn't mean you won't get quality guns that run fine out of the box. In fact, most do. But, because they are mechanical, they will definitely function more smoothly after a break-in.

Personally, I have found 300 rounds to be the magic number for handguns. If I can put 300 rounds through a new handgun, including 100 rounds of my chosen carry ammo, it is trustworthy IMO. If there is any kind of malfunction during the first 300 rounds, I won't trust it until I put 500 rounds through it from the time the malfunction occured. Following this rule, the only gun I have sold because it didn't pass the test was my Glock 36. As much as I tried to love it, I'm glad it's gone.
 
I've had two over the years (a Colt 1911 and an Interarms PPK/s) that sometimes wouldn't go all the way into battery often during the first couple hundred rounds. Both smoothed out over time and have been reliable favorites for a combined 35 years since. Yes, I believe break-in can work out some issues without any other action and don't mind it as long as function becomes dependable.
 
When they say "the gun will need some breaking in" what they mean is "we didn't bother to finish it all the way or check to to see if it functions 100%". I do not include Les Baer"s guns in this wisecrack. Breaking in a gun and testing it for 100% reliable function are two very different things and have nothing to do with the other.
 
I believe pistols do better with some break-in/wear-in time. Mostly because they have less gas pressure working against there metal parts, so the friction can cause issues until the parts mate together. Same goes for any kind of rimfire(or low pressure rounds), and semi-auto shotguns; as I'm finding out with my new Saiga 12.

Every rifle I've ever bought has been reliable out the box, with the exception of my FAL. I needed to adjust the gas system before it was reliable, and even after that it still choked on a few rounds through the first 200.

My Glock 23 was good to go out the box however.

Still 2 Many Choices!?
 
Well, I can say that on my High Power 40 cal, a break in period was needed. It took about 200 rounds or better to get it running 100%. I tried different loads, and finally run some cheap wolf steel cased ammo through it, and believe it or not, I think the steel cased ammo helped wear in the gun, because after only about a box of that stuff, all of a sudden the High Power would shoot everything.

I think the steel cases cleaned up a burr or something on either the extractor, or feed ramp, but I really think it was the extractor, because steel cased ammo has a reputation of being hard on extractors, so in this case, it helped clean it up, that or maybe the bolt face. At any rate, failure to feeds went away.

However, normally I don't think just shooting a gun, fixed an unrelilable gun, but sure helps identify an unreliable or reliable gun in most cases.
 
Isn't "gun break in" a felony?

The action though does smooths up considerably with use. So yes I believe in it. Guess that's what you meant. :D
 
Not in the sense of "making it reliable". If your gun fails in the first hundred rounds or so(and it's not ammo or mags), it's a lemon plain and simple. But I do believe a trigger or other moving parts can be smoothed out from their factory state after putting a decen amount of rounds through it.
 
I believe that the first "X" nub er of rounds (you get to pick what "X" is) is more of a shakedown cruise than a "breaking in" period. If the firearm operates more smoothly after being shot a while, that's gravy.
 
Hello friends and neighbors // Almost doubled the posts and tripled the views in 3/4 days, great guys.:)

There are folks getting their first firearm every day and some are looking for the good folks at THR to help them along.

I know when I first used the search for "breaking in", I was looking for something similar to seasoning a rifle barrel for semi-auto handguns. The various points made concerning "break in" can now be considered in whole.

I think I'm the only one who brought home a Remington 870 Express, put in a long movie like Patton, cleaned and lubed the 870. Then sat in my chair, put the butt of the stock between my feet and worked the action over and over two handed. 50 times in 30 seconds will give your forearms a workout but I can't keep that up for long. I just work the action for a bit then do something else and then come back to the 870, no telling how many times I repeated this. A new slide action shotgun is about the only thing I give that kind of attention too but it is worth it.

Thanks for the positive input.;)
 
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Very definately !

Both kinds of "breaking in" are very important.

I break in the barrels on every gun that I buy. It's tedious and takes 1/2 a day but the long term accuracy is at stake. Copper fouling will make even a Savage shoot only average groups......... and that takes something.

Many pistol mfg'rs will warn (all should warn) that a pistol should NEVER be used for self defence until 100-300 rounds have been shot thru it and even then, only after you've found the most reliable anmmo for THAT PARTICULAR pistol.
 
"I believe it should be 99.9 percent
reliable out of the box. The factory should break it in. Its like buying a new car and the brakes might not work sometimesfor the first 200 miles, just drive it for 200 miles and after that the brakes should be fine".c,mon. Just my opinion.
 
When I build a new firearm...I like to work the action a lot the day or two before I take it to the range.....this helps smooth everything up.....but I have noticed on tight 1911's they do sometime require a 50-500 round break in to feed every time all the time...even if the barrel and ramp job are done good enough to feed empty brass with a slight rolled edge.....

hell even with ar-15 builds the first time I match a bolt up on a new barrel extension I will manually cycle the weapon many time before I put a full magazine downrange....

YMMV
 
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