Do you need calipers and cartridge gauge?

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Lucky

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I've almost got the list finished, but for the measuring tools. Do I need both calipers and the gauge?

As well I have a Lee cast trimmer, with a cutter and lock stud. The package shows that a case-length gauge goes with it, so I wonder if I can use that to substitute?
 
Calipers are essential for checking all sorts of reloading measurments. I use mine constantly when reloading. Especially when doing rifle round or setting up a new set of dies. You can pick up a digital caliper at HarborFreight.com for about 15 to 20 bucks that looks exactly like the Cabela's $50 job. I am sure they are made my the same Asian company that supplies places like Cabela's. Sometimes a name can cost a lot of money.

PS - I am a Cabelas junky, so I am not knocking them.
 
I rank good calipers and a good scale as the two most important parts of my kit. But I never use case gauges. A good set of calipers is exceedingly useful. I don't trust the digital ones. I like the old style steel ones.
 
The calipres are indispensable. I suppose the other gauges are handy as well, but obviously not essential, because I've never seen one, let alone used on in 35 odd years of reloading and I have turned out some classy ammo in that time, maybe not benchrest/Olympic 3 position stuff, but cut some prettttttty small holes from time to time.

You can get reasonable vernier calipers pretty cheap, but spring a bit extra for the dial ones. I have a Lyman set to replace the old ones I had years ago and left on the bench and the roof leaked on them while I was awy on hols and they rusted up. After using the dial ones, I can't understand why I didn't upgrade earlier. Keep your eye open for a set of micrometers as well. You really only need one that measures up to an inch, but sometimes the sets are almost as cheap.
 
Depending on what you are reloading you can get away with not having a case gauge. Like if you are loading for Semi Auto, you can always take the barrel out, and you have the best cartridge gauge there is. Take the cylinder off a revolver to check ammo. Rifles pose a different story, and well you can test the chambering of a sized and unloaded cartridge case.

People will advocate cheap, well some times I have to agree that just cause it has fancy name stamped on the case does not equate quality. IE Dial Calipers. Heck I bet the assertion that Midway, RCBS, Cabelas, and Dillon all get their house brand from the same source is very on the mark! But, you have to take care of you equipment.

The Lee case trimmer comes with the cutter and case holder as seperate package, then you buy the case length spindle seperate with the case holder
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Calipers serve many purposes:
Case length
Loaded over all length of a round
Case head expansion
Bullet diameter
 
Calipers are essential equipment. I use a case gauge for auto pistol ammo since I use whatever brass I can get ahold of. It only takes a few minutes to check ammo and saves a lot of frustration of having a jam in a match.
 
No reason not to have a caliper. These work fine. I have a Starrett, a Mitutoyo, and a cheap one I got on sale from Harbor Freight. I use the cheapie for measuring bullet diameter, length, and cartridge A.O.L. all the time and it does a good job.
 
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I like case gauges a lot. They are very handy when setting up your dies to make sure the cartridge has the right dimensions and will chamber. I found it especially helpful when taper crimping. I taper crimp just enough so that it falls into the case gauge freely.
 
I don't have any case gauges, but I use my harbor freight digital caliper ALL the time. I check cartridge OAL, check the diameter of loaded rounds, and find it to be indispensable to creating safe, accurate and well fitting ammunition.
With my older eyes, I can reallyappreciate the digital display vs. the metal calipers; it has always been consistent and accurate, and can often be had for under $20.00 when Harbor Freight runs sales/coupons.:)
 
With my older eyes, I can really appreciate the digital display

Yep, exactly why I bought mine from Harbor Freight when they put them on sale at the store near me.
 
The digital calipers are fine. I do not have a case gauge and have reloaded thousands of rounds without issue. 45,9mm,10mm and 223 thus far. All fired fine, all grouped pretty well.

I did case trim the .223, the pistol rounds, I have not bothered. I check case OAL and if it does not exceed the max spec, (usually 0.01 over IIRC) I don't bother trimming to save time.

hope this helps
 
I found my calipers to be an indispensable item.
As far as gauges go, using something like a headspace gauge for a rifle that has a precise chamber could be called for. and if you are REALLY anal about your ammo, a neck micrometer might also be found in your tool box (I have both :eek: )
 
Case "gauges"

Lucky, you are getting some good advice but I suspect some of the comments on a case guage may be confusing. That's because there are, basically, two types and no one has mentioned that.

What the Lee trimmer includes is a "Case Length Gauge" with its cutter. Length is perhaps the single most critical dimension for a handloader and is actually the only one absolutly required, IMHO. That Lee gauge insures that your case won't be jammed into the end of the chamber throat and play hell with pressures.

The other type case gauge is a chunk of steel shaped much like the chamber end of a barrel. You drop your loaded rounds into the chamber and note if the case fully chambers or if its mouth extends past a reference point. This is a real "case guage" and is a very nice to have luxery that many of us can do without.

I want to second the suggestion for a 6" dial caliper, especially one from Harbor Freight Tools. A decent dial caliper is all most of us need and it need not be an expensive professional grade tool. In fact, most - maybe all - of the reloading company branded tools are made in China. By their looks, I think they are ALL made in the same Chinese plant that makes the Harbor Freight calipers! And HF has workable and inexpensive micrometers too but, if you have a caliper, I don't think you really need a micrometer for most reloading work.

The useful HF 6" dial calipers are frequently on sale for around $15. That's about half or less the price of the branded versions and maybe 1/10th the price of pro models! I have two professional grade thickness blocks, .033" and 1", and the worst HF caliper I've checked was only off about a quarter of a thousant at one point. That's good enough for common reloader's work!

HF also has inexpensive digital calipers but I don't think they are as good for reloaders as the conventional dial types with no tiny batteries to be dead when you need them! I have both types but rarely use the digital caliper, nor my very high grade 1" micrometer either.

Do a web search for Harbor Freight Tools, find their site and request a catalog, especially a sale catalog and get the web notices of sales too.
 
You can reload without calipers, but if you have them they will be used. I loaded tens of thousands of rounds and never case gauged any of them. An occasional malfunction due to a dinged rim was tolerable. I now shoot in idpa & uspsa and case gauge every round used in competition.
 
I reloaded for handgun and shotgun for close to 15 years without feeling the need for a caliper. I set my OAL's using a factory round and use a removed barrel to check chambering. I never had any problem developing good functional and accurate ammo.

Then I got a caliper and wasted a lot of time measuring all sorts of things. I will say that the Caliper and/or a micrometer can be usefull but they're not absolutely required or essential in producing ammo. There's no need to spend a couple hundred for a Starret or Mitutoyo machinist grade measuring tool where a $20 Chinese made dial caliper will work fine for the precision needed. I have yet to buy a case gauge.

These tools can be aquired later as you advance in the reloading hobby and find a need for them to solve a particular problem.
 
If you reload for semi-automatic rifles, I would definitely recommend a case gage as you will want to be sure your ammunition is manufactured to standard and will reliably and safely feed.
 
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