Teach a newb about gauges

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RavenVT100

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I've been reading all the 'starting out' threads in preparation for taking the reloading plunge. I'm going to go with either the lee turret press or the RCBS rock chucker. Reloading will be for .45 ACP and .223 (autoloading rifle).

There appear to be many testimonials about how much care needs to be taken with regard to proper measurements when reloading for an autoloader. That said, I'm confused on a few concepts regarding gauges and dies.

WRT dies: There are three dies, if I understand correctly. The first die punches the spent primer out and simultaneously resizes the brass back to spec. The second opens up the mouth in preparation for bullet reseating. The third crimps it. Is this correct? Can you get a die that sizes all the way down to the base of the cartridge?

WRT gauges: I have read about cartridge gauges, case length gauges, and OAL gauges. And calipers. If I have a cartridge gauge, do I need the case length gauge also? Is the OAL gauge required to reload safely? Finally, can you do the same thing with the calipers that you can with the gauges?

Thanks.
 
Raven,
A good way to get answers to the typical beginning reloader's questions is to buy and read a good manual on reloading. Good ones are the ABC's of Reloading by Lyman (?) or one of the other reloading manuals with a good Introduction chapter which details the reloading process with pictures showing tools needed/used, processes, etc. Your description of the typical 3 die pistol set is correct. The only gauge I use is a 6" dial caliper to check OAL, case diameter, mouth flare, etc. as necessary. I do NOT use Lee FCD nor other case gauges. Have not found them necessary in 43 years of reloading experience for rifles, pistols, or shotguns.

I would highly recommend the RCBS Rock Chucker press for a beginner. I used one for many years. Can't go wrong with one. They will last forever, even if you later add a progressive press for handgun calibers. Regardless of press used, my choice in dies has always been RCBS Carbide dies for straight walled pistol calibers.

Good shooting and be safe.
LB
 
Thanks, I just ordered the ABC's on Amazon. I'm gonna read that before I buy anything.

I assume the book covers my gauge question?
 
Raven,
I think the book will address gauges. In any event, I gave you my own personal experience/preference in gauges. Other reloaders with equal experience may disagree and prefer to use the Lee FCD etc. I will only say that is individual preference. They are NOT absolutely necessary or reloaders like myself would have never been able to reload successfully for rifles, revolvers, semi-automatic handguns, etc. without them. If you like/prefer to use the Lee FCD or other case guages, then buy one and use it. Some of us like them and some of us don't. Do whatever it takes (WITHIN SAFE LIMITS) so that your handloads will chamber and fire safely in your guns. Good luck.

Good shooting and be safe.
LB
 
I don't recall any discussion of gauges in the ABC's - at least, nothing past using a set of calipers to measure the overall length of a cartridge or a case.

The headspace gauge is the one you need for your autoloading rifle since this can be a critical measurement. The headspace gauge measures the case from the case head to the shoulder and tells you if you're sizing your brass correctly. There are versions available from RCBS and Stoney Point. I prefer the Stoney Point product.

The OAL gauge isn't really an OAL gauge, it's a seating depth gauge. It helps you find the point at which your bullet is in contact with the rifling, so you can adjust your seating depth correctly. If you don't intend to seat bullets out to the rifling, you don't really need this.

I'm guessing by cartridge gauge you're talking about the gauges that are simply a minimum-spec chamber cut into a piece of metal. The idea is that if your finished round fits in the gauge, it'll fit correctly into your firearm's chamber. I don't use these much.

I don't know why you would need a case length gauge since you can measure the case length directly with calipers.
 
"...can you do the same thing with the calipers that you can with the gauges?..." Yep. It's a vernier calipre. Machinists use them all the time. They're made to measure all kinds of stuff to thousands of an inch. A vernier is more accurate than a guage. The easiest is a dial calipre or digital. Cost varies and it does not have to come from a reloading company. Most hardware stores, like Home Depot, carry them.
Case length guages only tell you if the case is within spec. Just like any 'Go/No-Go' guages used in any factory. Use a vernier. It'll let you check the case length and the OAL. And measure the diameter of any bullet, your finger, etc.
"...WRT dies:..." Usually three dies for pistol(think carbide sizer for the .45 and a taper crimp die that can be set up as your seating die), two for rifle. For your .223 semi-auto or any semi-auto rifle, you must full length resize every time. No big deal. The sizer die will have 'FL' stamped on it. There are 'small base' dies too. Does the same thing.
Rifle cases tend to stretch a bit upon firing, so you'll need a case trimmer to trim the cases to the 'trim to' length given in your manual. Relax. It's not difficult nor required every time and there are all kinds of good trimmers available for not a lot of money. This is where the calipre comes into play. You will need to chamfer the inside of the case mouth and deburr the outside after trimming though. It's done with a simple hand tool. You won't need to trim your .45 cases. They don't stretch. OAL is important though.
Cartridges do not have headspace. Only rifles have headspace. It's a rifle manufacturing tolerance. Said tolerance is checked with a headspace guage. Headspace is the tolerance allowed between the bolt face and a spot in the chamber, with a rimless case like the .223, that permits ammo from all makers to fit all like chambers. You CANNOT adjust headspace on any rifle or pistol by doing anything to the case. A cartridge headspace guage tells you nothing about headspace. Your .45 headspaces on the case mouth. The taper crimp aids in feeding and allows proper headspace in the pistol. You don't need a headspace guage for reloading any cartridge.
After all that, reloading safety is a matter of paying attention to what you're doing. Especially, when you're charging the cases. Really good match grade rifle ammo is charged with powder by weighing each load. Pistol ammo can safely be charged with a powder thrower, checking 1 in 5 or 10 on your scale. It's also a good idea to look into every charged case to make sure the charge is there and isn't too much. You can tell just by looking in the cases in your case tray. If one looks like its got more powder than the rest, dump it and recharge.
 
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